2001 Ford Taurus 3.0 V6 with 105,000 miles. The Oil pressure light just started flickering when I come to a stop. The light only flicker faintly, and this only occurs after I have been driving on the highway for a while. The car seems to be running fine, the oil was recently changed and the oil level is not low. Do you have any thoughts of what this might be?
Well, it could be an electrical issue, but I would do something else first, I would replace the oil sending unit with a new one, should be relatively easy to do, and see what happens, if the issue is still there, I would buy a cheap mechanical oil pressure gauge and see what it reads in terms of pressure. Hot oil pressure @ 2500 rpm should probably be in the 40-60 lb range, I'm guessing but that's probably close. That is for the standard 12V motor, the 24V I think is around 20-45lbs hot @ 1500 rpm
March, 14, 2007 AT 7:21 PM
Any chance you're idling lower then normal?
March, 14, 2007 AT 7:38 PM
It's not idling any lower than normal. Maybe between 600 and 700 RPM while in gear and at a stop. I am planning on getting the oil flushed and changed tomorrow in hopes that will help. Is the oil sending unit something that can be replaced by a beginner, or something that is relatively cheap to have a mechanic fix?
March, 15, 2007 AT 3:36 PM
Yeah, it should be pretty easy, get yourself a repair manual, Chilton, whatever, it might show location of the sending unit I would think, It's only a single connector attached to it
March, 15, 2007 AT 6:11 PM
I took the car into the dealership to get the oil changed today they told me the oil pan was leaking and the oil pan gasket need to be replaced. Although I have been paying attention and I did not notice any oil leaks on my garage floor. For a 2001 Taurus with the 12v 3.0 v6 how hard is it to change the oil pan gasket? My brother-in-law knows a bit about car and if it's not too complex could help me. Please let me know.
March, 15, 2007 AT 11:01 PM
These are instructions for a 99 Taurus, yours is probably similiar: Oil Pan
1. Disconnect battery ground cable (14301).
2. Remove oil level dipstick (6750) as directed.
3. Raise vehicle on hoist. Refer to Section 00-02 .
4. Drain crankcase.
5. Remove starter motor (11002) and brace. Refer to Section 03-06 .
6. Disconnect engine control sensor wiring (12A581) from the heated oxygen sensors (HO2S) (9F472).
7. Remove dual converter Y pipe (5F250). Refer to Section 09-00 .
8. Remove engine rear plate (7007) from converter housing.
9. Remove oil pan retaining bolts. Remove oil pan (6675) making sure internal pan baffle does not snag oil pump screen cover and tube (6622).
1. Clean the gasket surfaces on the cylinder block (6010) and oil pan.
2. Note: Prior to applying sealer, clean sealing surface with Metal Surface Cleaner F4AZ-19A536-RA or equivalent meeting Ford specification WSE-M5B392-A, to remove all residues that may interfere with the sealer's ability to adhere.
Note: When using silicone sealer, assembly should occur within seven minutes after sealer application. After this time, the sealer may start to set-up, and its sealing effectiveness may be reduced.
Apply a 6 mm (1/4-inch) bead of Silicone Gasket and Sealant F7AZ-19554-EA or equivalent meeting Ford specification WSK-M2G343-A4 to the junction of the rear crankshaft main bearing cap and cylinder block and junction of the engine front cover (6019) and cylinder block.
3. Locate oil pan gasket (6710) to oil pan with sealing bends against oil pan surface and secure with Gasket and Trim Adhesive F3AZ-19B508-AA or equivalent meeting Ford specification ESE-M2G52-A.
4. Position oil pan.
5. Install oil pan retaining bolts. Tighten to 10-14 Nm (89-123 lb-in).
6. Back off all bolts and retighten.
7. Install engine rear plate to the converter housing.
8. Install dual converter Y pipe as described in Section 09-00 . Connect the engine control sensor wiringto the heated oxygen sensors.
9. Install starter motor and brace. Refer to Section 03-06 .
10. Lower vehicle.
11. Replace oil level dipstick.
12. Connect battery ground cable.
13. Fill crankcase to proper level with Motorcraft Super Premium 5W30 Motor Oil XO-5W30-QSP or equivalent meeting Ford specification WSS-M2C153-G.
14. Start engine and check for engine oil and exhaust leaks.
March, 16, 2007 AT 12:21 PM
Thanks for your help. I just pick up a Chilton manual last night and your instruction are right on with what is listed. I do have another question. My fan/motor for my heating and cooling is not working. Is that something that I will be able to get to once I remove the radio? I am not sure if is a wiring issue or if the motor or fan need to be replaced.
March, 16, 2007 AT 5:42 PM
Do you have the auto heat system? Or manual? The fan motor is located beneath the glove box and is also relatively easy to replace, might be in your Chilton book. They do fail. The auto heat does have diagnostics built into it that you can access, it's amatter of knowing which combo of buttons to push.
March, 17, 2007 AT 10:44 AM
I have manual heating system. I did find some information on it in the Chilton manual, I just wasn't sure how easy it is to replace. Would know of a the type of place that I would look for the parts. Is this something I should go to the juke yard for, or the dealership, or just a general auto parts store?
March, 17, 2007 AT 11:04 AM
I'd go to a parts store, I just replaced one in my Bronco and it cost me $54.
You could pick one up at a junk yard but you won't know how long it will last before it goes.