2001 Ford Taurus Oil Warning Light

Tiny
PKROULIK
  • 2001 FORD TAURUS

2001 Ford Taurus 3.0 V6 with 105,000 miles. The Oil pressure light just started flickering when I come to a stop. The light only flicker faintly, and this only occurs after I have been driving on the highway for a while. The car seems to be running fine, the oil was recently changed and the oil level is not low. Do you have any thoughts of what this might be?

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Wednesday, March 14th, 2007 AT 7:54 AM

16 Replies

Tiny
TAURUSWHEEL
  • MEMBER

Well, it could be an electrical issue, but I would do something else first, I would replace the oil sending unit with a new one, should be relatively easy to do, and see what happens, if the issue is still there, I would buy a cheap mechanical oil pressure gauge and see what it reads in terms of pressure. Hot oil pressure @ 2500 rpm should probably be in the 40-60 lb range, I'm guessing but that's probably close. That is for the standard 12V motor, the 24V I think is around 20-45lbs hot @ 1500 rpm

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Wednesday, March 14th, 2007 AT 7:13 PM
Tiny
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Any chance you're idling lower then normal?

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Wednesday, March 14th, 2007 AT 7:21 PM
Tiny
PKROULIK
  • MEMBER

It's not idling any lower than normal. Maybe between 600 and 700 RPM while in gear and at a stop. I am planning on getting the oil flushed and changed tomorrow in hopes that will help. Is the oil sending unit something that can be replaced by a beginner, or something that is relatively cheap to have a mechanic fix?

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Wednesday, March 14th, 2007 AT 7:38 PM
Tiny
TAURUSWHEEL
  • MEMBER

Yeah, it should be pretty easy, get yourself a repair manual, Chilton, whatever, it might show location of the sending unit I would think, It's only a single connector attached to it

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Thursday, March 15th, 2007 AT 3:36 PM
Tiny
PKROULIK
  • MEMBER

I took the car into the dealership to get the oil changed today they told me the oil pan was leaking and the oil pan gasket need to be replaced. Although I have been paying attention and I did not notice any oil leaks on my garage floor. For a 2001 Taurus with the 12v 3.0 v6 how hard is it to change the oil pan gasket? My brother-in-law knows a bit about car and if it's not too complex could help me. Please let me know.

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Thursday, March 15th, 2007 AT 6:11 PM
Tiny
TAURUSWHEEL
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These are instructions for a 99 Taurus, yours is probably similiar:

Oil Pan

Removal

1. Disconnect battery ground cable (14301).

2. Remove oil level dipstick (6750) as directed.

3. Raise vehicle on hoist. Refer to Section 00-02 .

4. Drain crankcase.

5. Remove starter motor (11002) and brace. Refer to Section 03-06 .

6. Disconnect engine control sensor wiring (12A581) from the heated oxygen sensors (HO2S) (9F472).

7. Remove dual converter Y pipe (5F250). Refer to Section 09-00 .

8. Remove engine rear plate (7007) from converter housing.

9. Remove oil pan retaining bolts. Remove oil pan (6675) making sure internal pan baffle does not snag oil pump screen cover and tube (6622).

Installation

1. Clean the gasket surfaces on the cylinder block (6010) and oil pan.

2. Note: Prior to applying sealer, clean sealing surface with Metal Surface Cleaner F4AZ-19A536-RA or equivalent meeting Ford specification WSE-M5B392-A, to remove all residues that may interfere with the sealer's ability to adhere.

Note: When using silicone sealer, assembly should occur within seven minutes after sealer application. After this time, the sealer may start to set-up, and its sealing effectiveness may be reduced.

Apply a 6 mm (1/4-inch) bead of Silicone Gasket and Sealant F7AZ-19554-EA or equivalent meeting Ford specification WSK-M2G343-A4 to the junction of the rear crankshaft main bearing cap and cylinder block and junction of the engine front cover (6019) and cylinder block.

3. Locate oil pan gasket (6710) to oil pan with sealing bends against oil pan surface and secure with Gasket and Trim Adhesive F3AZ-19B508-AA or equivalent meeting Ford specification ESE-M2G52-A.

4. Position oil pan.

5. Install oil pan retaining bolts. Tighten to 10-14 Nm (89-123 lb-in).

6. Back off all bolts and retighten.

7. Install engine rear plate to the converter housing.

8. Install dual converter Y pipe as described in Section 09-00 . Connect the engine control sensor wiringto the heated oxygen sensors.

9. Install starter motor and brace. Refer to Section 03-06 .

10. Lower vehicle.

11. Replace oil level dipstick.

12. Connect battery ground cable.

13. Fill crankcase to proper level with Motorcraft Super Premium 5W30 Motor Oil XO-5W30-QSP or equivalent meeting Ford specification WSS-M2C153-G.

14. Start engine and check for engine oil and exhaust leaks.

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Thursday, March 15th, 2007 AT 11:01 PM
Tiny
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Thanks for your help. I just pick up a Chilton manual last night and your instruction are right on with what is listed. I do have another question. My fan/motor for my heating and cooling is not working. Is that something that I will be able to get to once I remove the radio? I am not sure if is a wiring issue or if the motor or fan need to be replaced.

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Friday, March 16th, 2007 AT 12:21 PM
Tiny
TAURUSWHEEL
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Do you have the auto heat system? Or manual? The fan motor is located beneath the glove box and is also relatively easy to replace, might be in your Chilton book. They do fail. The auto heat does have diagnostics built into it that you can access, it's amatter of knowing which combo of buttons to push.

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Friday, March 16th, 2007 AT 5:42 PM
Tiny
PKROULIK
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I have manual heating system. I did find some information on it in the Chilton manual, I just wasn't sure how easy it is to replace. Would know of a the type of place that I would look for the parts. Is this something I should go to the juke yard for, or the dealership, or just a general auto parts store?

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Saturday, March 17th, 2007 AT 10:44 AM
Tiny
MRTRDRVR
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I'd go to a parts store, I just replaced one in my Bronco and it cost me $54.
You could pick one up at a junk yard but you won't know how long it will last before it goes.
Have fun.

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Saturday, March 17th, 2007 AT 11:04 AM
Tiny
TAURUSWHEEL
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The motor is not hard to remove if you have the instructions, the biggest pain is probably the little clip the holds the squirrel cage to the motor shaft, you could try spraying some electrical or brake cleaner into the motor, shaking it dry, and apply 12 volts, see if it runs, then you'll know for sure if it's the prob. Sometimes they run for a bit after cleaning, but invariably fail, either on the hottest or coldest day.

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Saturday, March 17th, 2007 AT 5:14 PM
Tiny
PKROULIK
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I was talking to my dad about it and he thought it might be some type of failing module in the system. He had a similar problem to what I am experiencing. The fan actually works sometimes. It seems like if it is turned on and I hit a bump it starts working and once it starts it will keep working until I turn it off. Have you heard of this? Is sometime easy to fix? I didn't really see it in the Chilton manual.

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Sunday, March 18th, 2007 AT 7:41 PM
Tiny
TAURUSWHEEL
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When it works, do all the speed s work? Usually the motor will fail internally, but like above post of mine, if you spray out the gunk in the motor it may work for a while, the brushes burn up

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Monday, March 19th, 2007 AT 12:15 AM
Tiny
PKROULIK
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Yes all speeds work, when it comes on, but it doesn't blow nearly as hard as it once did and it blows harder once it has been on for a little while. Also it makes a ticking noise when it is on.

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Monday, March 19th, 2007 AT 3:41 PM
Tiny
TAURUSWHEEL
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Sounds like the motor needs replacing, get one or try cleaning yours out by spraying, temp fix though on that

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Monday, March 19th, 2007 AT 4:29 PM
Tiny
PKROULIK
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I have recently been experiencing a loud noise that comes from my front passenger side wheel when I hit bumps. It is almost like a rattling noise. I have previously had this problem and it was fixed while the car was still under warranty. At that time the dealership told me that the linkage broke and they just replaced it and it was no big deal. What I was wondering is if you were familiar with this, what is the actual part that needs to be replaced, and is this something that a beginner can fix? Please let me know.

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Friday, April 27th, 2007 AT 11:52 AM

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