1999 Ford Taurus 1999 Taurus no start & stalls

TEQUILA

MEMBER
1999 FORD TAURUS
6 CYL
2WD
AUTOMATIC
120,000 MILES

Hello, hopefully someone can help me. This car runs good when it starts, however, when it doesn't start what it does is it will crank normally but it doesn't start. All lights on dash come on like normal and the engine turns over like it does during a normal start but the it won't fire up. But it doesn't do it all the time. It will also die while driving without warning as if someone just turned the key off. I mean all lights and everything will come on dash like it normally does with key in start position but it's just that quick the rpms drop to zero and the car dies. The check engine light isn't on either. After the vehicle dies or when it has one of it's no start issues if you sit there with the key in the on position for a few minutes sometimes it'll start right up, sometimes it won't. Generally though after a bit it'll start. But the problem has seemed to get progressively worse. Thanks in advance for any help.

Thursday, January 7th, 2010 AT 9:28 AM

4 Replies

JGAROFALO

MECHANIC
489 POSTS

Sounds like a cam position sensor or a crank position sensor. But there is also the possiblity that you may not be getting fuel. This could be caused by a problem with the fuel pump relay.

I suggest that you start by having the system checked for codes. That may give you a clue to the problem.

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Wednesday, May 3rd, 2017 AT 11:44 AM

TEQUILA

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3 POSTS

Here's what I've checked so far I did scan it for codes and had the following codes initiallyp1260, p1401, p0455, p0320. I replaced the crankshaft position sensor but it did not help so I checked the circuit from the pcm, pins 21 & 22 to the CKP snsr for continuity and aslo checked for ref voltage from pcm with koeo for 1.5 vdc @ both pins which it had, then checked circuit from pcm to snsr for resistance while conected to snsr ( read little over 300 ohms) and also checked CKP snsr for ac volts while cranking engine that checked good also. I am getting proper fuel pressure to fuel rail with key on. But no spark while cranking. I had also cleared codes and then rechecked after cranking a few times. The only code that had returned was P1260. I haven't been able to find any good reference material on how to properly check the theft det system to see if the problem lies there. Any suggestions? Thanks for any help in advance.

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Wednesday, May 3rd, 2017 AT 11:44 AM

JGAROFALO

MECHANIC
489 POSTS

Here are a few thoughts from my experience.

Anti-theft.

IF your car is equipped with anti-theft, then there is a real possibility that this could be causing the problem.

The components are all over the car. There is a RAP module behind the glove compartment. There is a PATS module behind the radio cluster. The keyless entry module is mounte to the dash near the gas pedal. There is a transceiver in the steering column. AND. The PCM has to communicate with all of them to extinguish the anti-theft light. Normally, in my experience, the anti-theft system disables the car by turning off the fuel and reducing the spark.

When you initially turn on the key, the anti0theft light should light up for a few seconds, and then go out if everything is OK. If the light remains lit, the engine will not start. The most common cause of the problem is a bad key. If you have another key for the car, you may want to try that before continuing.

The codes you received were mostly emission related, but the P1260 is a fuel pump relay problem. On this car, the fuel pump relay is in the module that is attached to the outside of the battery box in between the battery and fender. ALso, the ground wires on the rad support in that area are critical. A bad connection there will cause all sorts of strange problems.

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Wednesday, May 3rd, 2017 AT 11:44 AM

TEQUILA

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Thanks for the replies. The anti-theft light 'does not' stay on. It does extinguish itself after a few seconds. So I assume this means for practical purposes there shouldn't be a problem with that system? But why the reoccuring code? I read online somewhere that a shorted DPFE sensor could keep the pcm from communicating properly, anyone else heard this? I remember when I first looked at the car this sensor was unplugged and I reconnected it. At this point in time I had already started the car for the first time and thought nothing of it. Taken it for a test drive of about 20 minutes and the car was idleing. I know the DPFE sensors will flag a code if they short out and are a pretty common thing on Fords, I've changed quite a few, however, I don't remember ever having one cause a no start or stalling problems. I will try disconnecting the sensor and seeing if it makes any difference when I get back to the shop and post the result. In the meantime any other suggestions or comments? Thanks in advance.

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Wednesday, May 3rd, 2017 AT 11:44 AM