1995 Ford Taurus Water Pump Housing

Tiny
KX250ING
  • MEMBER
  • 1995 FORD TAURUS
Engine Cooling problem
1995 Ford Taurus 6 cyl Two Wheel Drive Automatic

Hey Guys I have a small problem, I was doing a AC switch out and noticed a have a small drip of Antifreeze that Leaks from the water Pump Housing, not the Pump it self but from the water Pump Housing. What All is involed in Taking the housing off to Replace that Gasket. Do I have to mess with any of the timing Housing in order to get it off? Im fairly good with a tool but Ive never had to remove the pump housing before on a Taurus. Thanx for any info you can on this.
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Monday, June 29th, 2009 AT 5:06 PM

10 Replies

Tiny
BLUELIGHTNIN6
  • EXPERT
3.0L or 3.8L engine?
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Monday, June 29th, 2009 AT 6:21 PM
Tiny
KX250ING
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Oh Sorry LoL I think that would help. Its the 3.0 Motor.
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Monday, June 29th, 2009 AT 7:02 PM
Tiny
BLUELIGHTNIN6
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Thanks for that info.

You're still going to need to remove the water pump, because the pump housing gasket is underneath the pump. Removal and installation procedures are as follows:

REMOVAL:

Disconnect the negative battery cable, then place a drain pan under the radiator drain cock.
Carefully remove the radiator cap, then open the drain cock on the radiator and drain the cooling system.
Loosen the four water pump pulley retaining bolts while the accessory drive belts are still tight
Loosen the alternator belt adjuster jack screw to provide enough clearance for the removal of the alternator belt.
Using a 1 / 2 in. breaker bar, rotate the automatic tensioner down and to the left. Remove the power steering/air conditioner belt.
Remove the two nuts and bolt retaining the drive belt automatic tensioner to the engine, then remove the tensioner.
Disconnect and remove the lower radiator and heater hose from the water pump.
Remove the eleven water pump-to-engine retaining bolts, then lift the water pump and pulley up and out of the vehicle.


http://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/261618_0900c15280062fb1_1.jpg



INSTALLATION:

Clean the gasket surfaces on the water pump and front cover. Lightly oil all bolt and stud threads except those requiring special sealant.
Position a new water pump housing gasket on the water pump sealing surface using Gasket and Trim Adhesive D7AZ-19B508-B or equivalent, to hold the gasket in place.

Apply Pipe Sealant with Teflon D8AZ-19554-A or equivalent to bolt No. 3 (see fig.) before installation.

With the water pump pulley and retaining bolts loosely installed on the water pump, align the water pump-to-engine front cover, then install the retaining bolts.
Tighten the bolts to the following specifications:
Numbers 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9 and 10 to 15-22 ft. lbs. (20-30 Nm).
Numbers 11, 12, 13, 14 and 15 to 71-106 inch lbs (8-12 Nm).


http://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/261618_ts_10.jpg



Hand-tighten the water pump pulley retaining bolts.
Install the automatic belt tensioner assembly. Tighten the two retaining nuts and bolt to 35 ft. lbs. (47 Nm).
Install the alternator and power steering belts. Final tighten the water pump pulley retaining bolts to 15-22 ft. lbs. (22-30 Nm).
Position the hose clamps between the alignment marks on both ends of the hose, then slide the hose on the connection. Tighten the hose clamps to 20-30 inch lbs. (2.2-3.4 Nm).
Fill and bleed the cooling system with the appropriate quantity and coolant type.
Connect the negative battery cable. Start the engine and check for leaks
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Monday, June 29th, 2009 AT 9:26 PM
Tiny
KX250ING
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Maybe I have the wrong name for the gasket then, I circiled in red the gasket Im talking about, thats where I see the water driping at and the gasket that I need. Do you know the correct name of the gasket that would go where I put the red line at?


http://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/168487_261618_0900c15280062fb1_1_1.jpg

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Monday, June 29th, 2009 AT 10:01 PM
Tiny
BLUELIGHTNIN6
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That's the front engine cover oil seal. It should leak oil, not coolant, if it has failed. You certain the coolant is leaking from that crack, or maybe just dripping down to that making it look that way?
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Monday, June 29th, 2009 AT 10:13 PM
Tiny
KX250ING
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Man I really appreciate your help on this. I will get a pic Tomorrow of where I see the small water drip laying at. Took rag and wiped it up and in 10-15 min I see it there again, thats not even having the car running or the water pump circulating and it still appears no matter how much I wipe lol, not a bunch maybe a few drops and thats it. But I will take a pic of where its at and maybe you can see what Im talking about. Talk with you then and again thanx a Million.
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Monday, June 29th, 2009 AT 10:26 PM
Tiny
KX250ING
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Tryed my Camera and cant get it to work, however after looking at it more I think the problem is the intake gasket or either the Head Gasket on cylinder 4-5-6 which is the front cylinder. I dont see any water at all in the oil and the Motor Ran perfect, what is the chance of it being just a small leak at the intake gasket? How hard is just that to change as I already have Dist out and the Fuel Injectors out, ran across a brand new set of injectors for 10 bucks and got them so I was gonna replace them. Also how much work is it to change the head gasket? I think water would be in the oil if that was bad wouldnt you?
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Tuesday, June 30th, 2009 AT 2:17 PM
Tiny
BLUELIGHTNIN6
  • EXPERT
If the head gasket has failed then yes, either coolant would leak from the water jackets of the head and mix with the engine oil, or vice versa. Oil mixing into the coolant. Do you need the intake gasket replacement procedures since you said you have some parts already removed?
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Tuesday, June 30th, 2009 AT 2:27 PM
Tiny
KX250ING
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Yes go ahead and send me the replacement procedure for the intake gaket procedure, would you change the head gasket as well even though there is no water in the oil? Cant be much more to take off to get the head off is there? Also would you just replace the cylinder (Head) that is leaking or would you go ahead and do both sides?
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Tuesday, June 30th, 2009 AT 3:13 PM
Tiny
BLUELIGHTNIN6
  • EXPERT
You should be able to buy an entire upper engine gasket set (intake, exhaust heads etc..) , normally when doing gasket repairs the most expensive part is the labor. Since you're doing the labor, it should be a rather cheap repair anyway.


http://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/261618_Noname_618.jpg



http://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/261618_Noname2_157.jpg



FIG. 2


http://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/261618_2_51.jpg



FIG. 3


http://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/261618_3_23.jpg



FIG. 4


http://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/261618_4_9.jpg




http://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/261618_c_1.jpg



http://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/261618_c2_1.jpg

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Tuesday, June 30th, 2009 AT 8:44 PM

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