Car wont start

Tiny
MSLO2112
  • 1994 FORD TAURUS

6 cyl Front Wheel Drive Automatic 74000 miles

My 94 taurus 3.0 stalled on the highway and wouldnt fire back up. Engine cranks fine. Checked fuses all fine. I had the fuel pump and filter replaced and went to start the car and heard the fuel pump working and car started up. I shut the car off after 5 minutes and then went to restart the engine. This time the fuel pump was silent and the car cranked but would not fire up. Then I replaced the control module for the fuel pump ( large black box above the radiator with 12 lead plugs) Now the check engine light will not come on when the key is turned, fuel pump still silent, engine cranks but will not fire. Is there some other relay for the fuel pump and is there a problem with the control module I installed. That would cause this condition?
about to go check for spark and retry

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Friday, April 3rd, 2009 AT 1:36 PM

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Tiny
MERLIN2021
  • EXPERT
  • 17,570 POSTS

A bad ignition switch or shorted wire will do it...Test pump withthe self test connector, gound fuel pump test lead, turn the key on, does pump run?


http://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/62217_Ford_Fuel_ST_1.jpg


FUEL DELIVERY Fuel Pump Relay See RELAYS under MODULES, RELAYS & SOLENOIDS. Constant Control Relay Module (CCRM) See CIRCUIT TEST X in TESTS W/CODES - EEC-IV (3.0L) article in the ENGINE PERFORMANCE section. Variable Control Relay Module (VCRM) See CIRCUIT TEST XB in TESTS W/CODES - EEC-IV (3.0L) article in the ENGINE PERFORMANCE section. 1. System Integrity Check On Taurus 3.0L Flex Fuel with a Code 141 present, visually inspect fuel delivery system for leaks and damaged lines. Repair as necessary. Perform QUICK TEST to verify pass code. Proceed to TESTS W/CODES - EEC-IV (3.0L) article in the ENGINE PERFORMANCE section. Service any fuel related codes prior to continuing with this test. On all models, perform the following checks: Ensure Inertia Fuel Shutoff (IFS) switch reset button is not in upper (tripped) position. See INERTIA FUEL SHUTOFF (IFS) SWITCH LOCATION table. Ensure battery is fully charged and fuel related fuses are okay. Check fuel tank contents and fuel gauge accuracy. If any fault is detected, repair as necessary. If system checks are okay, go to next step. 2. Check Fuel Pressure Release fuel pressure. See FUEL SYSTEM PRESSURE RELEASE. Install fuel pressure gauge. Connect a jumper wire between ground and fuel pump test terminal at Data Link Connector (DLC). See Fig. 3 .Turn ignition on to activate pump. Check and record fuel pressure. For fuel pressure specifications, see FUEL PRESSURE SPECIFICATIONS article. Proceed to appropriate step as indicated: If fuel pressure is within specification, go to next step. If fuel pressure is low, go to step 10). If fuel pressure is high, go to step 11). Fig. 3: Data Link Connector Terminal ID 3. Check For Fuel Pressure Leak-Down Operate fuel pump as in step 2) for a minimum of 30 seconds. Turn ignition off and disconnect jumper wire from DLC. Wait one minute then check fuel pressure gauge. If fuel pressure remains within 5 psi of specification, go to step 5). If fuel CAUTION: Inspect fuel system for leaks and damage before testing fuel pump.pressure does not remain within 5 psi of specification, go to next step. 4. Check Fuel Pressure Regulator Diaphragm Turn ignition off. Ensure vacuum hose is connected to fuel pressure regulator. Start and run engine for 10 seconds. Stop engine, and wait 10 seconds. Start and run engine for 10 seconds. Stop engine. Remove vacuum hose from pressure regulator. If fuel is present in vacuum port, replace fuel pressure regulator and repeat step 2). If fuel is not present, either fuel injectors are leaking down or check valve in fuel pump is defective. Repair as necessary and repeat step 2). 5. Check Fuel Pressure With Engine Load Ensure vacuum hose is still disconnected from pressure regulator. Observe pressure gauge while driving vehicle with heavy accelerations. If fuel pressure remains within 3 psi during test, reconnect vacuum hose to pressure regulator and go to next step. If fuel pressure does not remain within 3 psi, go to step 8). 6. Check Fuel Pressure Regulator Install vacuum gauge to intake manifold. Start engine. Observe vacuum and fuel pressure gauge while accelerating and decelerating engine. When engine is accelerating, vacuum reading should decrease and fuel system pressure should increase. When engine is decelerating, vacuum reading should increase and fuel system pressure should decrease. If readings are as specified, fuel system is okay and test is compete. If gauge readings are not as specified, go to next step. 7. Check Vacuum Supply Disconnect and plug fuel pressure regulator hose. Attach vacuum pump to fuel pressure regulator. Start engine. Apply vacuum to pressure regulator while observing fuel pressure gauge. If fuel pressure changes as vacuum changes, repair restriction in vacuum supply hose. If fuel pressure does not change as vacuum changes, replace fuel pressure regulator. 8. Check Fuel Filter Check for plugged fuel filter. Replace filter as necessary, and repeat step 2). If filter is okay, go to next step (Taurus Flex Fuel) or replace fuel pump (all other models). 9. Check Voltage At Both Pump Speeds Turn ignition off. Connect DVOM between ground and either terminal at Inertia Fuel Shutoff (IFS) switch. IFS switch is located in left side of trunk. Start engine. Voltage reading should be about 9 volts at idle and 13 volts at 3500 RPM. If voltage is as specified, check for faulty fuel pump ground connection. Repair as necessary. If ground is okay, replace fuel pump. On Taurus Flex Fuel, check Constant Control Relay Module (CCRM). See CIRCUIT TEST X in appropriate TESTS W/CODES - EEC-IV (3.0L) article in the ENGINE PERFORMANCE section. 10. Check For Low Pressure Causes Turn ignition off. Release fuel system pressure. See FUEL SYSTEM PRESSURE RELEASE. Disconnect fuel return hose from pressure regulator. Using a separate piece of fuel hose, connect one end of hose to fuel return port at pressure regulator and place other end of hose into a suitable container. With jumper wire still connected to DLC as in step 2), turn ignition on (engine off). If fuel pressure is still low and fuel is being returned into container, replace pressure regulator. If fuel pressure is still low and fuel is not being returned into container, replace fuel pump and repeat step 2). 11. Check For High Pressure Causes Turn ignition off. Release fuel system pressure. See FUEL SYSTEM PRESSURE RELEASE. Disconnect fuel return hose from pressure regulator. Using a separate piece of fuel hose, connect one end of hose to fuel return port at pressure regulator and place other end of hose into a suitable container. With jumper wire still connected to DLC as in step 2), turn ignition on (engine off). If fuel pressure is within specification, replace pressure regulator and repeat step 2). For fuel pressure specifications, see FUEL PRESSURE SPECIFICATIONS article. If fuel pressure is not within specification, go to next step. 12. Check Fuel Return System Turn ignition off. Fuel return hose should still be disconnected at pressure regulator. Disconnect fuel return hose near fuel tank. Apply 3-5 psi of regulated air to return line port at pressure regulator. If air flows freely through return line, replace fuel pump and repeat step 2). If air does not flow freely, check fuel return system for restrictions. Repair asnecessary and repeat step 2).


http://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/62217_FD_Fuel_Press_1.jpg

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Friday, April 3rd, 2009 AT 2:13 PM
Tiny
MERLIN2021
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6) Measure Voltage & Ground To CCRM Leave ignition off. Disconnect CCRM. Measure voltage between pins No. 8 and 15 at CCRM wiring harness connector. 7) Check Key Power To CCRM Leave CCRM disconnected. Turn ignition on. Measure voltage between pins No. 13 and 15 at CCRM wiring harness connector. If reading is less than 10.5 volts, repair open between pin No. 13 and ignition switch. Reconnect CCRM, and repeat QUICK TEST. If reading is 10.5 volts or more, go to step 8). 8) Check Continuity Of VPWR Circuit Turn ignition off. Disconnect PCM 60-pin connector. Inspect wiring, and repair if damaged. Install breakout box, leaving PCM disconnected. Measure resistance between test pins No. 37 and 57 at breakout box and pin No. 24 at CCRM wiring harness connector. 9) Check Continuity Of Power Ground To CCRM Leave ignition off and CCRM disconnected. Measure resistance between CCRM harness connector pin No. 15 and negative battery terminal. If resistance is 5 ohms or more, repair open in ground circuit to CCRM harness connector pin No. 15. Repeat QUICK TEST. If reading is less than 5 ohms, repair open in battery positive to pin No. 8 of CCRM harness connector. Repeat QUICK TEST.


http://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/62217_CCRM_PCM_1.jpg

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Friday, April 3rd, 2009 AT 2:38 PM
Tiny
JDL
  • EXPERT
  • 16,307 POSTS

Hello, yes, with the engine cranking, I'd check for spark at the plugs and injector pulse. It might be a little faster if you could check for codes? We can check the circuits at the (constant control relay module), the pink wire with black tracer at the ccrm, is voltage for the pump, should be hot with the engine cranking. Is it, if not we can check feed and ground to the ccrm. The yellow wire at the ccrm, B+, hot all the time.

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Friday, April 3rd, 2009 AT 2:46 PM
Tiny
MSLO2112
  • MEMBER

Thanks guys, I replaced the ccrm (they sold me a bad one) and spark returned. I checked the terminals for continuity and they all checked out within specs. Replaced the ignition switch. I pulled the fuel pump and replaced it with a new one, checked the pump for continuity before instalation and fuel pump will not engage still. Checked for tripped inertia switch and still no power to pump. Jumped the fuel pump at diagnostic terminal , heard relay click but still no power to pump, Next step is recheck for a short at fuse box and check voltage at inertia switch to see if its passing through. Otherwise engine will start when engine start spray was used . Only present problem is fuel delivery. Any other sugguestions?

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Monday, April 6th, 2009 AT 1:26 PM
Tiny
MERLIN2021
  • EXPERT
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Sounds like a bad wire or connector to the pump.

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Wednesday, April 8th, 2009 AT 6:20 AM
Tiny
MSLO2112
  • MEMBER

Thats what it was a bad wire running from the relay to the inertia switch. Repaired the break and it started right up. Who'd a thunk it. Thanks Merlin.

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Wednesday, April 8th, 2009 AT 6:21 PM
Tiny
MERLIN2021
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OK, good work!

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Thursday, April 9th, 2009 AT 4:57 PM
Tiny
CHELSEA LAMAR-JOETZKI
  • MEMBER

Hey just came into the same situation. Did all the right testing. Replaced distributor. Nada. Had spark, fuel, injector pulse, timing dead on. Wtf. Crank no start fan engage. Ended up being the ground connector plug by battery. Buzzing at pcm stopped with wiggle. Pain in the ars. Head ache. #Callemeraldauto ask for dan

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Monday, March 13th, 2017 AT 9:49 PM
Tiny
2CARPROS KEN
  • ADMIN
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Hey,

Great addition to this thread! Please feel free to help out on the site whenever it can add information that will help.

Best, Ken

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Thursday, March 16th, 2017 AT 12:05 PM
Tiny
LERP85
  • 1994 FORD TAURUS
  • MERGED

1994 Ford Taurus 3.0 6 cyl Front Wheel Drive Automatic

My car will not start. It tries to start, it turns over, and the starter is working fine. When the key is in the on position there is a really annoying buzzing sound that comes from the internal relay control assembly.

I have replaced the internal relay control assembly, but the noise is still there, and the car will not start. I have checked the fuses and they are all good.

Any hints as to what may cause this?

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Thursday, March 16th, 2017 AT 12:06 PM
Tiny
MATHIASO
  • MEMBER
  • MERGED

Hello Lerp85

Open the fuel filler neck and while cranking the engine, listen carefully to the fuel pump.
If you do not hear a buzzing sound from the tank, check the fuel pump connector underneath, if the connector is good and there is voltage to it, change the fuel pump.

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Thursday, March 16th, 2017 AT 12:06 PM
Tiny
LERP85
  • MEMBER
  • MERGED

Can you tell me were to find the fuel pump connector?

Also, why would that cause the loud buzzing noise to come from the internal relay control assembly?

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Thursday, March 16th, 2017 AT 12:06 PM
Tiny
MATHIASO
  • MEMBER
  • MERGED

Hello Lerp85
The loud buzzing sound may mean problem.
you have the pcm relay/fuel pump fuse that is 30 Amp.
the yellow wire from the fuse goes to the low fuel pump relay.
From the low fuel pump relay, the white/red wire will take you to the fuel pump dropping resistor.(see diagram)
The fuel pump won't work if one of them does not do its job.
by the way the fuel pump connector is on the top of the sending unit, on the top of the fuel tank.


http://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/46384_0900c15280279669_1.jpg



forget that one for while and focus on finding what I have mention in the diagram.


http://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/46384_0900c152802798f3_1.jpg


(check your email for this diagram)

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Thursday, March 16th, 2017 AT 12:06 PM
Tiny
LERP85
  • MEMBER
  • MERGED

Thanks for the help so far. Have not gotten around to checking that out yet. I just wanted to confirm that you know exactly what is making the buzzing noise so I am uploading a picture to point it out. It is the bigger box on the right, with the black foam on top of it, with the large amount of wires plugged into it.


http://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/503275_DSCF0457_1.jpg



I was also wondering if you might be able to go into more detail on what exactly would cause it to make a loud buzzing noise.

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Thursday, March 16th, 2017 AT 12:06 PM
Tiny
MATHIASO
  • MEMBER
  • MERGED

A short in the wiring or the connector could cause the buzzing noise because electricity is taking an unwanted path.
Check the wiring that is plug into it one by one, or the connector is causing the problem.
The buzzing sound is an electrical short somewhere before the connector or inside the connector.

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Thursday, March 16th, 2017 AT 12:06 PM
Tiny
LERP85
  • MEMBER
  • MERGED

I found the issue. It was a short in the grounding just to the right of the relay control assembly. I think I knocked a small wire from the clip and it caused it to short that clip out. It is fixed now.

Thanks for the help.

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Thursday, March 16th, 2017 AT 12:06 PM
Tiny
LARRYHE
  • 1994 FORD TAURUS
  • MERGED

As soon as you turn the key on, the relay control module starts clicking. I can see and hear the service engine light and the fuel pump in sync with the clicking. The motor will turn over but does not start.

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Thursday, March 16th, 2017 AT 12:06 PM
Tiny
LARRYHE
  • MEMBER
  • MERGED

I found the problem. Pin 15 was not grounded. It supplied the ground for all the relays and transistors. It was a black/green wire that ran to a connector just below the CCRM mount. The connector had been hot and the pins were not making cotact. The other side of the connector screw to the core support just the side of the CCRM. Hope this helps someone.

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Thursday, March 16th, 2017 AT 12:06 PM
Tiny
MATHIASO
  • MEMBER
  • MERGED

Thank you for your donation and for visiting 2CarPros. Com we hope to help you again the next time you need us

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Thursday, March 16th, 2017 AT 12:06 PM
Tiny
SIMMONSV27
  • 1994 FORD TAURUS
  • MERGED

Noises problem
1994 Ford Taurus Front Wheel Drive Automatic

This car was taking forever to start. It will turn over fine, to get it to start we would have to hold the gas peddle to the floor and while it started it will take a few seconds to rev up and then we could take our foot off the gas and it will stay running. Well, now it wont start up at all! I changed plugs, wires, fuel filter, (I can hear the fuel pump and its working fine, gas pressure is good too), I dont know what else to do, PLEASE HELP!

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Thursday, March 16th, 2017 AT 12:06 PM

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