For some unknown reason to me the new battery is being drained?

If your 2002 Ford Ranger's new battery is being drained overnight, there may be an issue with the vehicle's electrical system causing an excessive parasitic draw. A parasitic draw occurs when an electrical component or circuit continues to draw power from the battery when the vehicle is turned off. Here are some steps to diagnose and address the problem:

Check for Accessories Left On: Ensure that no lights, radio, or other accessories are left on after the vehicle is turned off. Sometimes, a simple oversight can lead to a drained battery.

Perform a Battery Load Test: Test the new battery to ensure it's holding a proper charge and is in good condition. A battery load test will help determine if the battery itself is the problem.

Inspect the Charging System: Make sure the alternator is functioning correctly and charging the battery properly when the engine is running. A malfunctioning alternator can lead to a discharged battery.

Check for Parasitic Draw: Use a multimeter to measure the current draw when the vehicle is turned off. If the draw exceeds normal levels (usually a few milliamps), there may be a parasitic draw.

Isolate the Problem Circuit: Once you've identified a parasitic draw, you'll need to isolate the problem circuit. Start by removing fuses one by one and monitor the current draw with the multimeter. When the draw drops to a normal level, you've found the circuit responsible for the drain.

Inspect Components on the Problem Circuit: After identifying the problem circuit, inspect the components on that circuit for potential issues. It could be a faulty relay, switch, module, or even a wiring issue.

Check for Recalls and Technical Service Bulletins (TSBs): Check if there are any recalls or TSBs related to battery drain issues for your specific Ford Ranger model year. You can check with a Ford dealership or search for TSBs online.

When driving the battery drains and battery light comes on. Had alternator checked and that was not problem.

Something was overlooked because if the generator is working, the "Battery" light would not be on.

Use a digital voltmeter to measure the battery's voltage while the engine is running. It must be between 13.75 and 14.75 volts. If it is low, we will need to measure the voltages on the smaller wires in the plug at the rear of the generator.

This has recently happen about two days ago i notice that my battery gage was going down when i came to a stop than as i started to take off the gage would go back to normal and this keeps going on and i feel i might have a bad battery or my altenator is going bad. I recently put a new altenator on the truck about one year ago. Any help would be greatful.

Hello

Since this is happening at idle I would have to suspect either the alternator is going faulty or perhaps the drive belt around the alternator is loose or damaged. Have the alternator and battery tested and inspect the drive belt.



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My battery light keeps coming on and low battery indicator keeps coming on while I'm driving. I took it in and had the battery, alternator, and starter checked and they said it didn't show any problems but the light only comes on when I'm driving, so they said it wouldn't tell them anything unless the light was on. It doesn't come on when I'm coasting or idling and it starts right up.

Check and test the ALT fuse 30amp and fuse no.15 7.5 amp and wiring to and from the alternator, also belt tension.

battery drains after sitting overnight when outside temperture drops below 35 degrees F. ????

radio, fan, lights, etc are all off.
runs and starts fine once it's started and battery is recharged.

Thanks,

Miike @

M.G.H. CUSTOM GRAPHICS

www.myspace.com/mghcustomgraphics

How old is battery? Have you had it tested as well as the alternator? Great info. about this issue can be found at the link below.

https://www.2carpros.com/first_things/why_is_my_car_battery_dead_over_night.htm


Let me know what you find after reading through that info. and I will follow up.



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battery is brand new and alternator still charges when running. its only when air temp drops below a certain degree

Are battery terminals and wires free of corrosion and tightened properly?

yes. terminals are new and tightened properly

I have a 1996 Ranger with a consistent battery drain. I have ruled out both the battery (by replacing multiple batteries) and the alternator (by having tested). Here is what I have observed so far. When I place an ammeter in line with the neg battery terminal and neg battery post, with the doors all closed, and before the GEM shuts down, I am showing .23 amps. When the GEM shuts down after 40 minutes or so, the current reading goes down to .15 amps. Now I start pulling fuses. (I use a screwdriver to close the door latch so I can get at the fuse box with the door open.) When I come to the large fuse in the main fuse box under the hood labled FUEL SYSTEM / ANTI THEFT SYSTEM and pull it, the current reading goes down to .05 amps (which is considered normal by ford standards). I have read that there is a TSB from ford regarding fuel pump and ecm relays sticking and causing a batery drain, so I replaced these relays, with no luck. I can't hear the fuel pump running, nor does there seem to be any problems with my factory antitheft, although I have no idea where the module is to disconnect it. One thing i did notice is that my gas gauge stays put (energized?) with the ignition off. I have no idea what else to check. Someone please help before I pull out all of my hair.

You need to get the alternator tested as well to rule that out. Part stores will test for free, on or off of vehicle. Cold weather is harsh on the charging system. There are a few items you can purchase that are really handy in the winter for this problem. A trickle charger will keep your battery charged in cold weather. Heated insulator will keep the battery warm which in turn will keep it charged.



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I'm looking at your schematic.
and fuse #12, a 20 amp MAXI fuse
goes straight to the fuel pump relay.

If you unplug the relay and the draw is still there, then it has to be the RAP module.

There is only one connection between the fuse box and the RAP, and that is directly at the RAP (C409). so I would assume that it has to be close to the fuse box.
I'll keep looking for a location for you.

it says, left rear corner of cab,

I'm still looking for a picture.

no picture.
but it says module is located behind trim panel at driver-side B pillar.
Disconnect negative battery cable, unplug 22 pin connector first, then 26 pin connector.

I found the RAP module and disconnected it and the current draw went away. My question is: what SHOULD be the correct current draw? I have had no problem with the anti theft system. Also, could a remote relay be causing the drain? I would prefer to replace a relay first before replacing the RAP

I have had the battery tested and the alternator out and tested twice. The battery still will not hold a charge. The truck will stay running as long as I charge the battery. When I am driving the truck it has no power it is dogging out. I have checked the ground wire to the alternator also and it is good. What could be the problem?

[quote:6cb052b1bf="resq12345"] what SHOULD be the correct current draw?[/quote:6cb052b1bf]
Sorry, i dont have any books that will tell me that.

about the what else it could be...
You have a solid state electrical device that has freaked out. it could be anything.

but this might help trace things down....
as a test, only plug in the 22 pin connector and see if you still have the draw.

then we'll chase down those wires.

Have you tested the charging voltage in the car with it running?

Hi,

Thanks for all your guidance so far.

I disconnected the 22 pin connector and the draw went away. There only seems to be 7 or 8 wires in the whole connector, so can't be too many more things.

Is it possible I could get a look at whatever wiring diagram you are looking at as well?

Thanks again!!!

no i have not whats the voltage suppose to be at?

I wanted you to have the larger plug already unplugged, and see if you have the draw with only the 22 pin connector plugged in.

that way we know it has nothing to do with the large plug and we only have to deal with those few wires.

and yes, i'll get you a schematic this evening when i have access to that computer.
but the pictures will be big, so i'll have to email them to you.

Could my battery wires be bad could that cause this problem?

With the engine running at idle and no accessories on, you should be seeing 13.5 to 14.8 volts. If it is not in that range, there is a problem with the charging system somewhere.

All of these sound good but my truck battery does not die it just loses power and battery light comes on. My radio comes on randomly without me turning it on and sometimes when I give it has the lights dim

battery draining . alternater tests great , starting problem after running ive put 4 starter and solonoids and new battery to no avail on this bronco 2 2.9 liter v6 2wd.

You need to do a voltage drop test on the starter system to find if there's a bad connection. Start by measuring the battery voltage right on the posts, not the cable clamps. Turn on the head lights so some current is trying to flow. You will find 12.6 volts if the battery is fully charged. Next, move the meter probes to the cable clamps. The voltage must be the same. If it is lower one of those connections is loose or dirty. Keep moving the probes down the cables and measure at each connection. The last connection on the positive side is at the starter terminal. Ford has had a lot of trouble with the wire strands corroding away under the insulation where you can't see it, right next to where it's bolted to the starter terminal.

Normal voltage drop testing involves having a a helper try to crank the engine so you can take voltage readings while current is flowing in the circuit. That will identify the cause of slow cranking. All you said is you have a starting problem but you didn't say what that problem is. If you have a no-crank condition regular voltage tests will find the cause.

You need to start a new question, and please be sure to list the engine size and mileage. Also include any tests that were done already and the results. You have a different problem. This question is a conversation between only two people. None of the other experts will see it or have a chance to respond. That does you a disservice. If you post your question within the next 30 minutes, I'll see it and reply. Otherwise I might see it tomorrow if no one else has replied by then.

If you want to start the testing, measure the battery's voltage while the engine is running. It must be between 13.75 and 14.75 volts. List what you find. That will determine where we go next.

something drains all the power from the battery right away when i turn the ignition to start my truck. i checked everything i could and found nothing touching or not grounded. but i also found a 5amp fuse that was good but getting no power to it, it is the instrument panel & lighter fuse. what can be draining the battery like that? i have no credit card, send me ur mailing add. & i will mail in a donation regaurdless

I'd use a digital multimeter and make sure the battery has a full charge. If the battery is down, you can't do any testing. If the battery is down, get it recharged. Check charging system. After that, I can help you check for drain. Without a fully charged battery, your spinning your wheels, can't check anything.

ok

If there is excessive amp draw, you pull the fuses, one at a time, till the excess draw is gone. An older way is to take battery cable loose, use testlite between battery cable end and battery post. If the lite comes on bright, there is a drain, you pull fuses one at a time, when you pull the fuse on the affected circuit, the lite goes out.