1999 Ford Ranger Truck won't start

Tiny
CANADDAR
  • MEMBER
  • 1999 FORD RANGER
  • 6 CYL
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 75,000 MILES
First, thanks for your site and time.

Second, my problem in the long version.

A few days ago, my abs light came on. Knowing that it was the anti-lock brake light, I was not too worried. Figured I would get around too looking at it later.

Then a day or two later, I am driving down the highway at about 60 mph and my speedometer started going nuts. It would drop to zero mph and then jump back up to 60. I found that decelerating a bit would make it jump more and sometimes not work, and going up to about 65 would make it work fairly well. Over the next day or two, this got worse until it was not working more than it was working.

2 days ago, I am driving to lunch. I come to a stop sign, stop and then proceed. I start making a left turn and my truck dies. No sputtering or slow engine death. It was a sudden and complete engine shut down.

In addition to the shut down, I found that my keyless remote no longer works.

My engine will turn over. All of the lights come on as normal when I turn the key to start. My air filter is not dirty. My spark plugs seem to be sparking. I pulled the fuel line at the manifold and it looks dry to me.

My guessing tells me that some sensor/relay/chip has gone bad causing my remote entry (tied to the security system. Shuts off fuel I think), the abs and the speedometer to all not work. But, I am not able to find anything in the owners manual, or the Haynes Ranger book I have on these problems.

So, I would be very appreciative for any suggestions that you guys might have.


Many thanks, Robert.
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Wednesday, December 3rd, 2008 AT 7:57 PM

7 Replies

Tiny
RASMATAZ
  • MEMBER
I pulled the fuel line at the manifold and it looks dry to

Do you hear the fuel pump come On when key at run-If so check fuel pressure and comeback with the readings this is where we start.
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Wednesday, December 3rd, 2008 AT 8:03 PM
Tiny
CANADDAR
  • MEMBER
I do not hear the fuel pump when I turn the key on. But, I do know that the security feature cuts fuel if it is tripped.

If you open the door with a key instead of the remote, the car will not start for 20 minutes.

When I drove my truck the last time, the remote worked to enter the truck. But it has not worked at all since the truck died. So while the fuel pump does not seem to be working.I am pretty sure that it can't be just the pump itself as I can't imagine how the pump not working would make the remote not work and I can't believe they would both quit working at the same time and not be related.

But, I should be able to hot wire the fuel pump if my guess is correct, right? (Splice into a wire away from the tank itself and give it 12V)

I am kind of chasing down this road in part because I don't have a fuel pressure tester. So, seeking a way to eliminate that problem without having one.

Could the speed sensor be tied into the wiring for the fuel pump somehow? Such is sharing a power path, a relay, or something like that?
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Wednesday, December 3rd, 2008 AT 8:59 PM
Tiny
RASMATAZ
  • MEMBER
I do know that the security feature cuts fuel if it is tripped. Have the security system checked out before you continue on to the fuel pump.

You don't hear the fuel pump when key is on-maybe the fuel pump fuse, fuel pump relay, pump itself and the computer
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Thursday, December 4th, 2008 AT 6:34 AM
Tiny
USCAV19D
  • MEMBER
I had a similiar problem with my '99 Ranger in regards to the speedo bouncing around all over the place and the ABS light coming on, I drove it to the shop and the mechanic said that the speed sensor had gone out. The problem was that in my driving to the shop, the tranny didn't know when to shift properly and it grenaded on the way, so I had to have a total rebuild, thank God for warranties.
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Monday, December 29th, 2008 AT 10:00 PM
Tiny
CANADDAR
  • MEMBER
Well, I actually fixed it all. It ended up being 2 problems.

First, it would not start because I had a fuse burn out. I was just not able to find that burnt out fuse the first couple of days due to only being able to look at them during low light or nighttime with a flashlight. The first day I was able to look at everything in the sunlight, I found it right away. The fuse popped (I think) because of a bare wire on the fuel pump line about half way back under the chasis. It had been rubbing a spot on the wire and finally grounded itself to the frame long enough to blow a fuse.

The other problem was the speed sensor on the rear differential. On my first trip to the store, I told them what I wanted and got one. It looked a bit different than the one that came out, but I chalked that up to just being an after market part.

It did not work. So I went back because there is supposedly one on the transmission also. I got that part and then looked all over my transmission and could not find where it went. But, then I got to thinking. The second one I bought that was supposed to go somewhere on the transmission sure looked a lot like the one that originally took out of my rear differential. So, figuring it can't hurt.I put it into the rear differential. It worked.

So now, I believe that they gave me a wrong part the first time and the correct part the second time, although for a different spot.

But, it all works now.

Thanks for the help from everyone.
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Tuesday, December 30th, 2008 AT 9:04 AM
Tiny
98RANGERXLT
  • MEMBER
Glad you found the problem.
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Wednesday, December 31st, 2008 AT 7:46 PM
Tiny
POMONABILL220
  • MEMBER
I had the exact same problem. When I rounded a turn in a parking garage with speed bumps, my truck just quit. No warning. Nutin'!
Blew the fule pump fuse. Found the wire loom just behind the cab on the drivers side under the bed was rubbing on the bed and had worn thru the insulation.
The wire that was grounding out was the fuel pump wire (a rather heavy, probably number 10 wire).
Wnere it wore thru were two multipin connectors for fuel pump/sender/rear lights/gounds/etc.
All I did was make a bracket that took the loop out of the loom and moved it away from the truck bed.
Sounds like a factory defect that should NEVER have been released!
Also had the VSS (vehicle speed sensor) on the rear diff. Fail (coil opened). Speedo said 0, trans shifted real hard and bad as a result. Did a temp. Repair by unwinding the coil until I found the open, and soldered the new wire end. Kinda worked ok, so had to get a replacement. Guess the fine wire didn't like the heat and vibration.
End of story!
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Wednesday, March 25th, 2009 AT 7:30 PM

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