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1998 Ford Ranger transmission fluid pump not pumping

Tiny
JONATHANFIX
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  • 1998 FORD RANGER
Transmission problem
1998 Ford Ranger 6 cyl Four Wheel Drive Automatic

I recently replaced my engine. We pulled the engine and transmission out together as it was easier then dropping the transmission from underneath the truck. We replaced the fluid and filter. We put everything back together and the engine fired right up but when I shifted it into gear it didn't go anywhere and the rpm's stayed the same. To determine if the transmission fluid pump was pumping we disconnected one of the lines into the radiator expecting to see fluid squirt out when the engine was running. It did not. I've heard that there might be a special way to prime the pump. Is that true? How do I fix this?
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Tuesday, February 23rd, 2010 AT 8:08 PM

42 Replies

Tiny
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Could it be electrical? The computer codes are indicating that there's a problem with the air intake flow sensor (the wire harness on the new engine didn't have a connection for this sensor) and another code indicating something else that I don't quite remember. There's solenoids in the transmission, right?
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Tuesday, February 23rd, 2010 AT 11:11 PM
Tiny
2CARPRO JACK
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Its possible, would be nice to know the other code. If the converter fell out a little during the swap it may not be driving the pump.I personally have never heard of or had a trans pump "lose its prime"
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Wednesday, February 24th, 2010 AT 8:15 AM
Tiny
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There was a slight difference in the wiring harness. It did not have a connector for a sensor on the air intake. Therefore one of the codes is for the "intake oxygen temperature sensor". The other one is for "cam sensor bank 1". That one doesn't sound to good.
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Wednesday, February 24th, 2010 AT 10:27 AM
Tiny
2CARPRO JACK
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You need to use the original wiring harness first. Neither one of those codes will keep the trans from working
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Wednesday, February 24th, 2010 AT 10:45 AM
Tiny
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Why do I have to use the original harness? What does the cam code mean?
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Wednesday, February 24th, 2010 AT 2:53 PM
Tiny
2CARPRO JACK
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Because that is the harness that matches the vehicle and the computer in it. That is why the harness on the other engine doesnt match up the same. Do you have the exacxt "P" number for the cam code so I can look it up. Is this a OHC or OHV engine? I have never seen a cam sensor bank 1 code before
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Wednesday, February 24th, 2010 AT 4:17 PM
Tiny
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The exact error codes are:
1) P0340
2) P0113
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Thursday, February 25th, 2010 AT 9:09 AM
Tiny
2CARPRO JACK
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Did you swap the wiring harness back to the original one yet?
Sorry, my bad need to know if it a 3.0 or a 4.0
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Thursday, February 25th, 2010 AT 7:18 PM
Tiny
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I have not swapped the harness yet. I will probably get it done this weekend. It's a 4.0L V6 XLT 4x4 1998.
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Thursday, February 25th, 2010 AT 8:23 PM
Tiny
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P0113- Temp sensor (IAT, ECT) this could be the connector you dont have aspot for ontheintake (IAT Intake Air Temp) is the coolant sensor plugged in?

P0340- CMP Sensor. Camshaft position sensor. Is this plugged in?

I suggest going back to old harness, and being sure everything is plugged in before trying to diagnose these issues
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Friday, February 26th, 2010 AT 7:22 AM
Tiny
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Well, we don't have the old harness back in yet but I have determined that the CAM sensor in the new harness was a 2-wire sensor while my computer was expecting a 3-wire (Hall-Effect) sensor. We replaced the sensor on the new engine with the sensor from the old engine (which fits the original harness). Could the CAM sensor error code disable the transmission? Or maybe it's just a subtle difference in wiring to the transmission?

We're going to replace the seals on the exhaust manifolds before we put everything back together again so it may be a few days before we know if this worked or not.

Thanks for your help! Is there a way to donate more at the closure of my issue?
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Tuesday, March 2nd, 2010 AT 10:44 PM
Tiny
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The cam sensor wont keep the trans from working. Definitly look for any differences in the connectors (pin count) at the trans to see if that is the problem. Little changes are made from year to year
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Wednesday, March 3rd, 2010 AT 7:15 AM
Tiny
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Well, we finally got the old harness on the new engine. It turned out that the cam sensor the computer wanted was a three wire sensor while the sensor on the engine was a two wire sensor. We put the sensor from the old engine on the new one. With the old harness on now we eliminated the P0113 code easily but we still have the cam sensor code. I suspect that's because we didn't put much care into aligning the sensor. Appearantly, I need a special tool.
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Wednesday, March 3rd, 2010 AT 8:40 PM
Tiny
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Get #1 on top dead center. Install the CMP so that the vane on the shaft lines up with the aligning slot on the outer housing, that is where it is supposed to be. Then reinstall the sensor and it should run
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Thursday, March 4th, 2010 AT 7:29 AM
Tiny
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Ok, now we have no more error codes but the transmission fluid still isn't pumping. I don't know what to do next!

I really appreciate your help. How can I donate more?
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Friday, March 5th, 2010 AT 8:07 PM
Tiny
2CARPRO JACK
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Contact Mike@2carpros. Com

I take it the fluid level is correct?Sorry, have to ask. Did you swap just the engine or both? If both, did the torque converter happen to pop out of the trans a little? When you put the engine back in, was there a small air gap between the engine flexpalte and the torque converter?
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Saturday, March 6th, 2010 AT 8:19 AM
Tiny
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Don't worry, I understand about your fluid level question. Trust me, we've been questioning everything we've done. It seems like the torque convertor hasn't been installed properly. Even though it seemed like everthing went back together just fine when we did it it seems like the torque convertor wasn't installed right. I'm reading through one of those Chilton guides and it pretty much describes exactly what is going on with my truck.
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Saturday, March 6th, 2010 AT 3:34 PM
Tiny
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The Chilton guide describes a process of pushing and turning at the same time on the torque convertor until you hear a couple of clicks. That's about all it says. Do you have any more specific directions or hints with pictures or diagrams?
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Saturday, March 6th, 2010 AT 3:50 PM
Tiny
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If the converter was all of theway in, there will be an air gap between the flexplate and converter. If there wasnt a gap, the converter isnt all of theway in. You will have to remove the engine or trans to install converter. Hard to tell if any damage was done until it is done correctly and you see if it works. If the converter is all of the way in, you cant get your fingers in behind it when grabbing from front.
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Sunday, March 7th, 2010 AT 8:31 AM
Tiny
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Well, we dropped the transmission again today. The torque converter is still attached to the vehicle though(I believe the part it is connected to is the flex plate). The Chilton guide shows the installation of the comverter removed from the vehicle. Do we need to remove it and then install it using the "push, turn and click" method to the transmission or is it ok to leave it on the vehicle?
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Sunday, March 7th, 2010 AT 7:28 PM

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