1998 Ford Ranger 4 cyl Two Wheel Drive Manual 77,000 miles
My battery light started flickering on, and stays on during idle now, and the alternator meter is reading low for the first time ever.
The truck runs fine, and I have a new battery in it.
A friend has the same truck and his stooped dead last month. As it turned out, a wire was bad (broke?) To the alternator. I think they put in a new alternator anyway, $250 w/ tow. I wiggled the wires to the alternator, and the dash meter went back up, but went back to low the next time I stated it.
Is there a known problem w/ these alternators/wires?
Does my problem sound like a bad alternator or wire/connector?
I did a few checks from my manual and things look OK. But the " small wire" doesn't connect w/ a snap and pulls right out now. And I can't check it to see if it's making a connection?
Is there a problem with these wires on Fords? Does this connection on the alternator rust or corrode on these?
November, 3, 2008 AT 6:32 PM
The clip brakes off causing a loose connection
and battery light to come on
November, 3, 2008 AT 7:18 PM
The clip on that wires connector looks fine, but when I first took it off I heard something snap. Is there a " clip" in the (female) connector attached to the alternator?
Is there a fix for this loose connection?
Today I had someone look at the volt meter in the dash while I wiggled that wire around, and the dash meter didn't move! I unwrapped that (blk/wht) wire to make sure it wasn't open, it looks/reads fine.
But yesterday I cleaned the connectors w/ WD40 and the dash meter went back up to the normal range. But when I revved the engine, just a little, the meter went down and now stays there (depressing)?
I would hate to remove the alternator if I can fix it on the motor?
November, 3, 2008 AT 7:51 PM
What do you have for voltage at the battery when engine running
November, 3, 2008 AT 10:48 PM
I believe the in-dash meter is a simple battery volt meter. It shows battery voltage w/ the key in the on position, and it stays the same after the motor starts now. The meter is going down as the battery is being discharged as the motor is running (purely off the battery I believe).
The dash meter used to go up after starting, showing the alternator was working/charging the battery.
But I will test it w/ a multimeter tomorrow.
November, 4, 2008 AT 6:24 AM
At this point I believe u in for an alternator
November, 4, 2008 AT 11:09 AM
Alternator or voltage regulator?
I can also buy separate alternator parts, like diode pack, regulator brushes, etc.
I'm out of work, and need to get by cheap.
OK, today the battery read 11.5V, then after starting 10.95V.
I drove it a couple miles to vote, then on the ride home the alternator started working again, but when I revved the motor a little the in-dash volt meter went down, and stayed down.
Does this sound like wiring, the alternator, the voltage regulator, or simply the brushes on the voltage regulator?
November, 4, 2008 AT 4:01 PM
I would suspect the voltage regulator
November, 4, 2008 AT 4:30 PM
I took off the alternator, then the voltage regulator. One brush was worn WAY down while the other one was fine. On the side of the worn down one, the copper area it rubs on (armature?) The rotor was worn down to the white plastic below it.
I guess thats it.
Do they replace this in rebuilt alternators? I hear a lot of rebuilt one fail quickly.