1995 Ford Probe car engine problem. NO POWER! Sputters!

Tiny
PERRYS4490
  • MEMBER
  • 1995 FORD PROBE
  • 6 CYL
  • FWD
  • MANUAL
  • 125,000 MILES
So I left my car in a snow storm for about 1 1/2 days. It worked fine before then. I had little gas in the car. And my gas light was on when I left it. When I came back the car wouldnt start. I kept trying and trying and trying. After a half an hour of cranking I finaly got it but I ran SO ROUGH. Stalls right away if I dont keep my gas on the peddle. I thought maybe the fuel lines were frozen because of the water condensation. But no I changed the fuel pump, fuel filter, fuel pump regulator and spent over 400$! Still not fixed! Example of car running. On high way car will not go past 65-70 mph without deaccelerating. The car has NO POWER going up hills is a battle! Exspecialy in higher gears! Its spuddering and wanting to stall and ALWAYS have to keep foot on gas! Any ideas? I thought it could be the mass air flow sensor. But in my car I have a after market intake thats eletrical. So it has a built in one. And if I take the intake off the car wont start or start for 2 seconds. So I think the MAS is ok. I checked the O2 sensor on my hedders. Was a little black cleaned that off still nothing. Im desperate for help!


P.S. I even cleaned gas tank out when instsalling the fuel pump. Any ideas?
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Wednesday, January 27th, 2010 AT 1:55 PM

16 Replies

Tiny
OBXAUTOMEDIC
  • EXPERT
Hello,

Ok, I believe that year still had a Cap and Rotor. Check them, could be that there is corrotion built up on the electrodes inside the cap. If so change cap and rotor.

Post findings.
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Wednesday, January 27th, 2010 AT 2:36 PM
Tiny
PERRYS4490
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I took your advice and I cleaned the it and there was a little but not much debree in it. I blow the first three ignitions on top using lung power then used compressed air on the bottom three. Not the car doesnt even wanna start?
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Wednesday, January 27th, 2010 AT 3:34 PM
Tiny
OBXAUTOMEDIC
  • EXPERT
What color were the electrodes? The should be either a Silver or a Copper/Gold color. If they look gray then there is most likely a good amount on there just may not look like it. Use a flat head screw driver and try scraping the electrodes. Also scrape the tip of the rotor.

One other thing to look for, Crack/s in the cap.

Oh, and another question when you removed the cap did you take the wires off? I ask because I have had people do that and just put the wires back on without putting them in the right firing order.

.
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Wednesday, January 27th, 2010 AT 7:27 PM
Tiny
PERRYS4490
  • MEMBER
So I pulled the spark plugs. And full of oil. There is no milky residue so I dont think I cracked a block or head gasket. I just think I tried starting it so much. So I sand blasted them and put them back in. Only 3 cylinders are firing and I think its because some of the spark plugs are faulty
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Sunday, January 31st, 2010 AT 11:24 AM
Tiny
PERRYS4490
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Would a bad cam or crank shaft position sensor make it run exactly as I explained?
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Sunday, January 31st, 2010 AT 11:25 AM
Tiny
OBXAUTOMEDIC
  • EXPERT
Ok, are you saying the plug hole were full of oil? If so you will need to replace the Valve Cover Gasket. And to be honest I would replace the Cap, Rotor and Plugs.

I do not suggest cleaning plugs in vehicles anymore mostly because of all the sensors, it is better to just replace them.

A bad Cam or Crank would turn engine light on.

.
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Sunday, January 31st, 2010 AT 10:07 PM
Tiny
PERRYS4490
  • MEMBER
So I replaced the cap and rotor. I also replaced the crank shaft position sensor and all the spark plugs. It runs alot better doesnt stall. But is still VERY bogy and doesnt have power. My engine light codes are saying 41 which is the VRIS #1 solinoide. So I bought that part also and is coming in the mail. Would the VRIS solinoide make the car boggy and no power? Thanks guys
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Thursday, February 4th, 2010 AT 11:16 AM
Tiny
OBXAUTOMEDIC
  • EXPERT
Not Sure, but don't think so. Since you have already ordered it when you get it and put it on let me know the results.

Have you checked the Timing to make sure it is set right. Timing that it off can cause the No Power, also a weak fuel pump or failing fuel pressure regulator.

.
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Thursday, February 4th, 2010 AT 11:21 PM
Tiny
PERRYS4490
  • MEMBER
Ok ill check the timing! I already put in brand new fuelpump/ fuel pump regulator ha =P thanks for all the help. When the part comes in ill let you know the results!
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Friday, February 5th, 2010 AT 7:13 AM
Tiny
PERRYS4490
  • MEMBER
So I got the new VRIS #1 solonoide and replaced it. Still sluggish. I found out that the VAF intake needs a air filter. And mine doesnt have one. It has alot of dirt in the thortle body. Any ideas? Maybe clogged injecters? Whats the best way to clean them?
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Sunday, February 7th, 2010 AT 11:49 AM
Tiny
OBXAUTOMEDIC
  • EXPERT
Sorry for delay, have sick kids an myself.

Ok, the VAF (Vane Air Flow) Sensor, the only filter would be the Air Filter, are you saying you don't have an air filter in the filter box? Also does the pic below look like the VAF?


https://www.2carpros.com/images/question_images/199390/original.jpg



If so you can use some Mass Air Flow Sensor Cleaner to clean it and see if it clears up the problem.

You can get some Throttle Body Cleaner to clean the Throttle Body.

To clean the injectors you can either take it to a shop and have they pressure clean them or just get some good fuel injections cleaner to add to fuel.

One other thing to check, you mentioned about changing the Cap Rotor and Plugs. What about the Plug Wires? Are they original or what do they look like... Here is a test you can do to find out if the wires are possibly the problem. Get a spray bottle filled with a mix of liquid soap and water. Start car then spray solution on wires, it is best done in dark place or at night. If you see a lot of sparking then replace wires.
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Thursday, February 11th, 2010 AT 8:28 PM
Tiny
KURT-B
  • MEMBER
Mine sputters too, but after it's is warmed up. Seems to start at about throttle on, stops when I go over 3K to 3500 RPM.
This is after I did the following.
I pulled the plugs and they looked good, cleaned, re-gapped, and put back in.
Replaced the cap and rotor.
Pulled off the egr and blocked it off so it does not recalculate exhaust back into the engine.
I have not tested the plug wires yet, but will do this weekend.
Main codes are 16 and 41 when I clear the memory.
Any other thoughts what it might be?

Thanks for your help. In advance ;-)
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Tuesday, February 23rd, 2010 AT 1:06 PM
Tiny
OBXAUTOMEDIC
  • EXPERT
Hi Kurt,

Here are a couple possible causes.

Throttle Position Sensor (TPS) - Most Likely cause

or

Dirty or Failed MAF (Mass Air Flow) - can try cleaning as stated in previous post. Can also try Disconnecting the MAF and test drive. If problem is gone Replace MAF.

.
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Friday, February 26th, 2010 AT 12:20 PM
Tiny
KURT-B
  • MEMBER
Update, 03-02-10

I sprayed water on the plug wires and everything looked well, no arcing.
I then drove the car till warm and pulled the MAF connector off. The car would not stay running unless the throttle was cracked open some.
I could not drive the car; it had no power with the MAF unplugged.
Next I did the same procedure except on a cold car. It would run but the idle would race up and down a couple of grand.
Plugged in the MAF and idle smoothed out. Went to the Shack and purchased some electrical cleaner spray to clean the MAF.
Came out and found a puddle of brake fluid near the driver side rear tire. I will be fixing that first now ;-(

Other info, once the car is going if I try to accelerate I still get the sputtering until I let off the gas some.
What do you think about checking the TPS resistance over the travel from closed to wot?

Thanks for your help.
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Tuesday, March 2nd, 2010 AT 12:31 PM
Tiny
OBXAUTOMEDIC
  • EXPERT
Hey Kurt,

Yes you can test the TPS. Here are the Specs.

Closed - 0.4 ohms

1/4 Throttle - 0.6 ohms

1/2 Throttle - 1.6 ohms

3/4 Throttle - 2.2 ohms

Full Throttle - 3.0 ohms

Measure between Yellow Wire and Ground

Value may vary by 15%

.
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Tuesday, March 2nd, 2010 AT 8:59 PM
Tiny
KURT-B
  • MEMBER
What a pain in the a$$ running the new brake lines from the firewall to the rear disks. Now that its done I can get back to the engine problem. Will let you know what I find when I test the TPS this weekend.

Thanks.
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Tuesday, March 16th, 2010 AT 9:18 PM

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