1988 Ford Mustang oil pan removal

  • V8
  • 2WD
  • 90,000 MILES
Does axle need to be removed?
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Monday, March 9th, 2009 AT 11:14 AM

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Complete replacement instructions are as follows:

On vehicles equipped with a dual sump oil pan, both drain plugs must be removed to thoroughly drain the crankcase. Before raising the engine for oil pan removal clearance, drain the cooling system and disconnect the hoses. Check the fan-to-radiator clearance when jacking, and remove the radiator if clearance is inadequate.

Disconnect the negative battery cable.
Remove the fan shroud attaching bolts, positioning the fan shroud back over the fan.
If equipped, also disconnect the transmission oil cooler lines at the radiator.
Remove the dipstick and tube assembly.
Drain the crankcase.
Disconnect the steering flex coupling. Remove the two bolts attaching the steering gear to the main crossmember and let the steering gear rest on the frame away from the oil pan. Disconnect the power steering hose retaining clamp from the frame.
Remove the idler arm bracket retaining bolts (models so equipped) and pull the steering linkage down and out of the way.
Remove the nuts and washers which attach the engine mounts to the No. 2 crossmember.
Raise the engine and place two wood blocks between the engine mounts and the crossmember. Remove the converter inspection cover.
Remove the rear K-brace (four bolts).
Remove the oil pan attaching bolts and lower the oil pan on the frame.
Remove the oil pump attaching bolts and the inlet tube attaching nut from the No. 3 main bearing cap stud, and lower the oil pump into the oil pan.
Remove the oil pan, rotating the crankshaft as necessary to clear the counterweights.

Clean and inspect the gasket mounting surfaces thoroughly. Remove the old gaskets and seals, as well as old gasket cement. Coat the surfaces on the block with contact cement and position the pan side gaskets on the engine block. Install the front cover oil seal on the cover, with the tabs over the pan side gaskets. Install the rear main cap seal with the tabs over the pan side gaskets.
Position the oil pump and inlet tube into the oil pan. Slide the oil pan into position under the engine. With the oil pump intermediate shaft in position in the oil pump, position the oil pump on the cylinder block, and the inlet tube on the stud of the No. 3 main bearing cap attaching bolt. Install the attaching bolts and nut and tighten to 22-32 ft. Lbs. Position the oil pan on the engine and install the attaching bolts. Tighten the bolts (working from the center toward the ends) 9-11 ft. Lbs. For 5/16 in. Bolts and 7-9 ft. Lbs. For 1/4 in. Bolts.
Position the steering gear on the main crossmember. Install the two attaching bolts and tighten them to the specifications in. Connect the steering flex coupling.
Position the rear K-braces and install the four attaching bolts.
Install the converter inspection cover.
Raise the engine and remove the wood blocks.
Lower the engine and install the engine mount washers and nuts. Tighten them to the following specifications:
1979-81: 40-60 ft. Lbs.
1982: 70-90 ft. Lbs.
1983: 57-65 ft. Lbs.
1984: 50-65 ft. Lbs.
1985-1988: 80-106 ft. Lbs.
Position the steering linkage and fasten the idler arm bracket retaining bolts (models so equipped).
Install the oil dipstick and tube assembly, and fill crankcase with the specified engine oil.
Connect the transmission oil cooler lines, if applicable.
Position the shroud on the radiator and install the two attaching bolts.
Connect the battery cable. Start the engine and check for leaks.

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Monday, March 9th, 2009 AT 6:17 PM

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