WINDOWS, WIPERS, CRUISE, 4WD SWITCH NOT WORKING

Tiny
STRETCH33
  • 2000 FORD F-250

Electrical problem
2000 Ford F250 V8 Four Wheel Drive Manual 215K miles

These accessories have progressively quit. I have replaced the GEM, multifunction switch, and the fuse panel. I have looked in the harness for obvious shorts. I traced out the wires as much as possible from the switches to the fuse panel. I can't find a common denominator. The windows work until it blows the fuse. The 4WD switch does not have juice. I am unable to figure this out. How can I find the problem without completely dismantling the wiring harness?

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Thursday, July 24th, 2008 AT 3:38 PM

17 Replies

Tiny
MERLIN2021
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Have a look at the grounds under the kick panels on both sides. What # fuse blows?

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Thursday, July 24th, 2008 AT 4:20 PM
Tiny
STRETCH33
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Thanks For responding. The fuse that keeps blowing is #15, a 5 amp I think.
Stretch

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Thursday, July 24th, 2008 AT 5:17 PM
Tiny
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OK #15 is a 5 amp and it has the GEM, instrument panel and BOO(Brake on off switch) Try unplugging the BOO at the brake pedal, and the cruise deactivation switch on the master cylinder, or brake lin under the master, see if the fuse stops blowing then.

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Thursday, July 24th, 2008 AT 5:36 PM
Tiny
STRETCH33
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I unplugged the BOO switch and the fuse has not blown yet while operating the windows and using the brake pedal.

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Thursday, July 24th, 2008 AT 6:36 PM
Tiny
STRETCH33
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The accessory delay relay, once engaged, would not quit until the window reached the bottom, even when interrupted by the switch. That or something else has either burned out my window motor or created some other problem, making the driver's side window inoperable. I did shuffle relays to check. All the same. Passenger side window still operable.

What's next?

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Thursday, July 24th, 2008 AT 7:48 PM
Tiny
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There is also a relay for the one touch for the drivers window, but replace the BOO and see what happens, did you disconnect the deacivation switch?
You may need to have it scanned for codes, even if the dash light is off you may have "B" codes stored, the truck has a DDM(drivers door module). Last, have you replaced any light bulbs lately? I will get back on this at 2:00 pm After work, test you door window switch.

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Friday, July 25th, 2008 AT 2:40 AM
Tiny
STRETCH33
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I have not had time to get parts. I will replace the BOO switch if necessary.

My Chilton diagram does not show a drivers door module; only an accessary delay relay for the drivers window. Since I disconnected the BOO I have not blown the fuse. The passenger window works. I have not yet unhooked the brake pressure switch (cruise deactivation).

I forgot to mention that my ABS light has been on since I lost wiper function. Also, I have not replaced any bulbs.

I greatly appreciate your knowledge and your
help.

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Friday, July 25th, 2008 AT 6:42 PM
Tiny
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This can be the switch in the drivers door causing at least the window issue.

Scan for codes and even the electrical shorts should set a code. No DDM in your truck. Sorry!

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Friday, July 25th, 2008 AT 7:18 PM
Tiny
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Here are the connector pin ID's


http://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/62217_Ford_Consa_1.jpg


http://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/62217_Ford_Consb_1.jpg



http://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/62217_Ford_Consc_1.jpg



http://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/62217_Ford_Consd_1.jpg



http://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/62217_Ford_Conse_1.jpg



http://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/62217_Ford_Conse_1.jpg



http://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/62217_Ford_Conse_1.jpg


http://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/62217_Ford_Consf_1.jpg



http://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/62217_Ford_Consg_1.jpg

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Friday, July 25th, 2008 AT 7:30 PM
Tiny
STRETCH33
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I may be overconfident, but I'm pretty sure the motor died in the window. It hasn't been real strong since I've owned it. At this point I'm interested in trouble shooting the cruise control and wipers. I replaced the multifunction switch even though I wasn't confident that was the problem. They went out when I was replacing the GEM. I put the old one back to see if the new GEM was the problem. No change. Can't find any additional damage to the under dash wiring. Any ideas?

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Friday, July 25th, 2008 AT 7:49 PM
Tiny
MERLIN2021
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Fords have bad wiper motors, I've done three in my town car so far. Bought mine at Autozone for the liftime warratee, paid off so far! Test for power at the motor connector.

Front wiper motor is controlled by wiper/washer (multifunction) switch, which supplies a specific resistance value to the Generic Electronic Module (GEM). The GEM supplies a ground to wiper run/park and high/low relay coils, activating relays with voltage supplied by fuse No. 11 (30-amp) in Central Junction Box (CJB) through the ignition switch when in RUN/ACCY position. When activated, wiper run/park relay switches supply voltage to wiper high/low relay.

Depending on switch position, the wiper high/low relay supplies voltage to either high speed or low speed input of wiper motor. When wiper motor is activated, the run/park switch (integral with wiper motor) provides voltage to GEM which in turn removes ground to run/park relay coil, deactivating it. The wiper motor continues to operate through voltage supplied to run/park switch and run/park relay. When wiper motor returns to park position, run/park switch grounds GEM input and GEM removes ground from wiper high/low relay coil, deactivating high/low relay and wiper motor. The GEM continues this cycle until wiper/washer switch position is changed.

The GEM further controls the front wipers and allows for intermittent speed through completion of a time-out cycle and speed-dependent operation by shortening delay at higher speeds, allowing for faster operation. The front wipers will operate in speed-dependent mode (from 10-65 MPH) at all times, unless wiper/washer switch is in the INT 1 position. The rear wiper motor is also controlled through the GEM in a similar manner, through rear wiper relay with voltage supplied by fuse No. 1 (20-amp) in Battery Junction Box (BJB). The front windshield and rear window washer is controlled by its respective wiper/washer switch through the GEM.

COMPONENT LOCATIONS COMPONENT LOCATIONS NOTE: This article includes coverage for Cab & Chassis. Component Location Battery Junction Box Left Side Of Engine Compartment, On Front Of Wheelwell Central Junction Box Lower Left Side Of Instrument Panel Generic Electronic Module Attached To Rear Of Central Junction Box Rear Washer Pump Relay In Battery Junction Box Rear Wiper Relay In Battery Junction Box Front Wiper Motor Top Left Side Of Firewall Rear Wiper Motor In Center Of Tailgate Front Washer Pump Relay In Battery Junction Box Rear Washer Pump Relay In Battery Junction Box

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Saturday, July 26th, 2008 AT 5:09 AM
Tiny
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http://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/62217_F25_Wiper_Con_1.jpg


As for the cruise, disconnect the deactivation swich and use a wire to jump the connector, go for a test drive.

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Saturday, July 26th, 2008 AT 5:18 AM
Tiny
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WIPER MOTOR

1. Disconnect negative battery cable. Disengage linkage from motor. Disconnect wiper connector. Connect in-line ammeter between negative battery terminal and wiper motor terminal No. 3 (Black wire). For mating connector view, see Fig. 8. Connect a jumper wire between positive battery terminal and wiper motor terminal No. 4 (Black/Light Green wire).

2. Observe ammeter and note low speed current draw. If current draw is greater than 3.5 amps, replace wiper motor. If current draw is 3.5 amps or less, disconnect jumper wire and go to next step.

3. Move jumper wire to wiper motor terminal No. 5 (Light Blue wire). Observe ammeter and note high speed current draw. If current draw is greater than 5.5 amps, replace wiper motor. Fig. 8: Identifying Wiper Motor Connector C151 Terminals Courtesy of FORD MOTOR CO.

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Saturday, July 26th, 2008 AT 5:19 AM
Tiny
STRETCH33
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My work schedule has kept me from being able to spend much time on this, but it appears that the wiper motor is receiving current. The window motor has a winding burned out. I haven't got it together to test drive for the brake pressure switch to the cruise. I got a brake on 0ff switch but haven't installed it yet. It will probably be Tuesday evening before I can purchase parts and try to reassemble it all.

Do you think the BOO switch will fix that problem or will I still be likely to have a short in the downstream wiring?

Why would all of these components fail concurrently?

Thanks again for all the help. Stretch May, Dustin, OK

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Sunday, July 27th, 2008 AT 5:54 PM
Tiny
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They fail because three are on the same fuse, and replace or unplug the cruise deactivation switch before testing. Unless youy have the replacement part for the recall. Yes some models and certain years the cruise switch is under recall ask Ford have you VIN ready.

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Monday, July 28th, 2008 AT 1:13 PM
Tiny
STRETCH33
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Well, I finally got by the parts store and bought a wiper motor and window motor. I went out after dark with my little headlight on and replaced both. Wipers still don't work and I now have another window motor with down side burned up!

Wipers on fuse #11
Speed control & stop lights on Fuse #13
Power windows on 30amp Breaker, position 25 in the power distribution box under hood.

And yes, I am familiar with the cruise switch recall.

Could you please go over all the emails and try to find some common denominator for all these with the possible exception of the window unit?

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Thursday, July 31st, 2008 AT 10:55 PM
Tiny
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My opinon is you do have a ground problem someplace in these circuits, did you perform the wiper motor test as described? If not test the OHMs in the ground circuit by testing the OHMs of the black wire to a body part, if you get anything above 5 OHMs, trace the black wire and repair it. Same for the windows.

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Friday, August 1st, 2008 AT 4:15 PM

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