My check engine light is on?

OK, First off I suggest anytime you change the Cap you change to Rotor. Only makes sense. Why would you want to remove the Cap twice? Oh, and no it doesn't require the timing to be reset.

A couple questions....

Have you had the codes pulled? If not do so and post here using this guide

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/ford-lincoln-mercury-obd1-1995-and-earlier-diagnostic-trouble-code-definition-and-retrieval

What did the Plugs look like when you removed them? Any one look different than the others... example covered with oil soaked with gas , deposits....

How long did it run good for once you replaced the Plugs cap and wires? How many Days , weeks, etc.

Post response here.....

[quote:22781a3869="obxautomedic"][quote:22781a3869="nolanpw"]Electrical problem
1991 Ford F150 6 cyl Two Wheel Drive Manual 134K miles
----------------------------------------------------------------
Having problems with the engine cutting out
and hard to restart and occasional Check Engine
Light as well.
When turning over the engine, the check engine
is on and the engine is running ruff, smoke and
fuel coming out the tail pipe, until all cyclinders
catch and fire. Then it runs great with no problems.
Usually happen when it sits for a while.
Put in new plugs/wires and cap and it ran good for a while, now it is happening again.
Working my way back from the plug, the next step is to replace the rotor. Does this require the timing to be reset?
Any suggestion in solving this would be appreciated.

Regards ...[/quote:22781a3869]

OK, First off I sugguest anytime you change the Cap you change to Rotor. Only makes sense. Why would you want to remove the Cap twice? Oh, and no it doesn't require the timing to be reset.

A couple questions....

Have you had the codes pulled? If not do so and post here...

What did the Plugs look like when you removed them? Any one look different than the others... example covered with oil soaked with gas , deposits....

How long did it run good for once you replaced the Plugs cap and wires? How many Days , weeks, etc.

Post response here.....[/quote:22781a3869]

Thanks for the information ...
After the plugs/wires and cap were replaced,
it ran for a couple of days before it cut-out and hard
to start and ran rough until again fired properly.
It seemed it was hard to start because it was flooded.

The Dealer was unable to get any code; did not find
any problems and even drove it for a while.

As for the pugs, they did look moist across the set. Also, changed the oil and noticed what look like gas infiltrated the oil.

Thank you.

Ok, if you have a fuel pressure tester test the fuel pessure and pressure regulator. You may also want to check the Injectors they are probably dirty and not giving correct spray pattern or they are leaky and need to be replaced.

Your fuel system will not give off any codes. so anytime you have a problem and no codes are given then the problem could be fuel related.

My check engine light comes on about five minutes after I start my truck. I have ran a code scan on my truck with a Actron code scanner and have gotten with the KOEO codes of 83 and 84 and the code have to do with EGR control solenoid and EGR Shut off solenoid circuit failure. I have replaced the EGR solenoid. My engine light still comes on and get the same scan codes after I have replaced the EGR solenoid. Can you please help??

Ok which solenoid did you replace? Where was it located? Was it on the egr valve the position sensor or was it on the intake where the vacuum lines and electric plug to to? Let me know so I get you the test to the other componants ok. Thanks

The solenoid was by the intake manifold and has two vacume lines attached to it and an electrical plug with two wires that plug into the solenoid component.

Ok first here is a chart with the pins and there numbers as you need a digital multi meter and the we will check to see why the egr system is having faults. Here is the chart. so you can print it.

FIrst unplug the solenoid so you can test pin 57. Set your multi meter on 20 volt scale and put positive side on pin 57 and neg. to good ground and turn on key and read voltage. If less then 10 volts then you need to find the bad part in that wire section and fix it. If more then you need to test resistance of pin 33 and ground on the 200 ohm scale if more then 5 ohms then there is a break in that circuit. Let me know what this brings ok.

When driving I get an intermittent check engine light. No difference in performance when light comes on. After a while the light goes out. I have had the truck checked for codes and there are none. I have a slight hesitation on start up for first 30 seconds when temps are cold. Engine has slight ping or rap at 1500 rpm when going up hill. Biggest problem is vehicle get terrible gas mileage. about 10-12 MPG on combined city/highway. Changed wires, plugs and filters. Truck sat idle for about 9 months last year before I bought it. Very low miles and was used very infrequently by an older couple.

It could be a few things. However, without codes, everything becomes a guessing game. The ping on accelleration can be the result of a bad knock sensor. The poor fuel economy could be a bad O2 sensor.

Have you checked fuel pump pressure?

1991 Ford F-150 4x4 mileage: 75,000. I have been trying to solve some error codes for a while. I was getting all kinds of codes at first. I realized that my vacuum reservoir was rusted out. I have replaced it. I cleared codes and drove it for a period of time. I now get oxygen sensor errors 171 and 172 and 173. I seem to have terrible mileage also. After changing the vacuum reservoir, and still having O2 codes, I thought I needed a new O2 sensor. With the new sensor in place and running the vehicle on the highway for ten minutes, the service light comes on and stays on. I returned the sensor assuming I had a bad one. The new sensor seemed to help for a while but now the light comes on steady again after ten minutes on the highway, always with O2 sensor codes. I have also noticed that the vehicle starts much better in cold weather (-20) than it does in warm weather (around freezing temp). In warmer weather the engine seems to start and then miss immediately, giving similar characteristics of a flooded engine until it restarts. Any ideas would be appreciated.

Check the fuel pressure regulator, as it may need to be replaced. Also, check the fuel pump pressure because we have found that the fuel pumps in each of the tanks can work one day and not the next.

I have a 1990 f150 with a 300 inline 6 i had it for about 2 weeks now and it doesnt seem to be getting as much power as i should. Im going up a hill and its maxing out at 45 mph. The check engine light came on so i took it to get tested and it said the computer isn't responding with the scanner. It also has one bad fuel pump. I was wondering if this is just how fast the truck will go or could it be the computer or maybe another bad fuel pump. Any ideas will be helpful. Thanks bill

Hi, thanks for the donation, nice looking truck. Whoever tried to check for codes, may be correct, but, I'd have to double check. You can check for possible codes, yourself. There should be two connectors, underhood driverside, fender. The info below shows two different ways, you can access codes, if possible. The top part, uses a jumper wire and analog multimeter, you count the needle swings in order to get the some codes. The bottom way, just uses a jumper wire, then the mil on the dash starts flashing, you count the flashes to get the codes. How long since a tune-up. Check fuel pressure.

I'm checking the fuel pressure tomorrow and the oil filter and gas filter are getting changed tonight. i took it to anouther place to get tested and they had the mb1 conection for testing the computer and still no read out.

Hi wight5, its been awhile since your last post were you able to get fuel pressure test results. If you have fixed your truck, well thats great and if not then let us know so we can finish getting your problem resolved. Thank you again.

Computer problem
1990 Ford F150 V8 Four Wheel Drive Automatic

I NEED HELP
it will run fine i get where im going and sometimes when i start it again it will turn over its hard to get started when it does start it burns rich and check engine light comes on shakes alot like its starved for fuel put my code reader on there and it say vehicle not responding and whats really weird is that the overdrive button wont work. thanks josh

Is there black smoke from the exhaust?

Yes there is black smoke from the exhaust

Two things that come to mind. First, the fuel pressure regulator or a leaking fuel injector, or a bad temp switch.

Start by checking fuel pressure. I will provide a how to for checking pressure and the regulator. Also, pay attention to fuel pressure drop off. That is when the key is turned off and the pump stops. If it drops off quickly, chances are you have one or more leaking injectors..

https://www.2carpros.com/how_to/how_to_check_fuel_pressure.htm

Let me know what you find.

Joe

the engine light flashes sometimes, but ti stays steady @ 35 mph. There is no hesitation and seems to run smoothly. I have changed spark plugs and that seemed to make no difference with the light.What do I need to do? I can't get a diagnostic code if it want stay on continuously. I hope you can help.

See my profile, not great w/ newer stuff, do attempt repairs on them, but I do alot of research before I jump in..........But take him to Autozone or Advance Auto.....FREE CODING..FREE ADVICE...FREE SHOW ME WHERE AND WHAT TO DO.....PARTS NOT FREE.......some rigs will STORE a code even if light does not stay on...........have 2 books on codes, don't know years they go up to or might still apply to.........if free coding gets you no where,or other inputs here or somewhere else is NO-GO.... I will attempt to research possibilities....better w/ real JEEPs.....Wadda you think?........Love, Turddog

Crank up runs fine for twenty minutes or so. Then will start until quits. Both check engine light and engine light will come on. Will do while driving or just at idle. Then wait an hour or so. Can get in drive back home.

When it stalls do you have spark? Check this guide toward the bottom to see what I am talking about.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-test-an-ignition-system

Please let us know what happens.

Cheers, Ken

Will still start and idle. Just cannot give any gas. Or stall then can crank couple more times before will not any more. If get underneath and pull fuel line off put back on it will start again. but will not go to far and do it again. I suppose spark would be issue?

Yes is sounds ignition related. These trucks had a problem with the ignition module on the side of the distributor I would also do the pick up coil as well.

Check out the diagrams (below).

Cheers, Ken

Put coil and module did same.

With the ignition key on does the coil have power on the positive side?

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-use-a-test-light-circuit-tester

When the engine cranks over the negative side of the coil should flash.

Engine Performance problem
1988 Ford F150 6 cyl Two Wheel Drive Manual 135.00 miles

how do i remove the codes on my truck without a scanner

ground out the dlc connector terminal b to a good engine ground and put a jump wire from the sti to the dlc. turn key on.

Why doesn't the check light work when you run the codes? it just stays on, does not flash.

Hello, I'm Danny.

Are you using an OBD1 scan tool or jumper wire in the diagnostic port? Here is a tutorial for you to view for Ford OBD1 codes:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/ford-lincoln-mercury-obd1-1995-and-earlier-diagnostic-trouble-code-definition-and-retrieval

Hope this helps and thanks for using 2CarPros.

I'm using a jumper wire and the check light just stays on, it doesn't flash. why?

The check engine light wont flash, the test light will connected to the diagnostic connector please go over the guide above again and get back to us.

itcuts out through rpm band,check engine light flashing,pretty sure its electical

ANTI-LOCK BRAKE SYSTEM -1988 Ford Pickup F150
Page 1 of 1
RETRIEVING CODES

Tips Click a link to view tip
Tip: ABS CONNECTOR - 1987 F150
Tech1
To obtain stored trouble code, momentarily ground diagnostic connector and record number of times light flashes. See Fig. 2 . DO NOT turn ignition off before grounding connector or code will be lost.
Only the first code stored will appear until that problem is corrected.
Fig. 2: Diagnostic Connector Location (Bronco II) Courtesy of FORD MOTOR CO.
Fig. 3: Diagnostic Connector Location (1987 F-Series Pickup & Bronco) Courtesy of FORD MOTOR CO.
Fig. 4: Diagnostic Connector Location (1988 F-Series Pickup & Bronco) Courtesy of FORD MOTOR CO.
NOTE:
The test connector is usually located behind left door pillar panel.

© 2008 Mitchell Repair Information Co., LLC.

This is also the procedure for the engine DTCs.

I have looked every where on this truck but have not found it. The only thing I have found is a connector in my glove box, but it doesn't fit my code readers connector. I am using a Innova 3120 code reader that reads both OBD I and OBD II.

I think I found out my Problem my reader requires a EEC-IV which is fuel injected and I believe my truck is a EEC-II based on what I found in the Definitions of those terms. Thanks for your Help

If you have a paper clip and test light I can tell you how to hook them up and count the blinks on the test light to retrieve the codes.

I have a 01 f150 4.2 2x2 5-speed man. About 6 months ago my engine light came on. The code came up EGR pressure and bank 2 fuel too lean. I changed the EGR valve, sensor and solenoid, and i also cleaned out the tube from the exhuast to the EGR valve. A day after clearing the code the light came back on. To make a long story short i'll just tell you what i replaced through the 6 month period; Coil pack, maf sensor, spark plugs & wires,and both O2 sensors. After changing all these parts, my light is still coming on with the same code a day or two after i clear it. I am at a loss. Can you please help.