Engine stalls while driving at idle?

2005 FORD EXPLORER
144,000 MILES • 4.0L • V6 • 4WD • AUTOMATIC
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05EXPLODER94
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Back in July, I had a couple instances where my vehicle would stall at idle: the first time it took about two to five minutes for it to happen. The second time, later in the same day, it only took about thirty seconds for it to stall. Then it was fine for a couple weeks until it stalled as I was turning onto a street going about five mph. Then I started it up and drove it until I was at my destination and it ran fine. I thought maybe it was because it was due to some bare wires behind my fan speed control knob, so I turned the fan off completely (this was back in the end of July) and it ran fine since then up until today still with no A/C fan on. I was playing a CD (do not know if this will help or not but I mostly play music through my aux cord and this was the second time I have played a CD since this happened, and the only time it stalled doing so). It stalled going about twenty mph and I was braking due to traffic. Through my hazards on for two seconds, started it up and off I was. It ran fine up until I pulled into the parking spot at work as it stalled again, still playing the CD. On my way home, I switched to listening to music on my iPod through the aux cord and it never stalled. I have seen similar posts suggesting it could be a faulty crank position sensor or a bad fuel pump relay, so I am thinking that is it. On a side note, the odometer reads approximately 144,000 miles but that is only approximately 78,000 miles on the engine I had installed two years ago to replace the original one that quit running. Do not know if that will help with this but figured I would specify that. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Thanks
Sep 9, 2017 at 5:13 PM
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STRAILER
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It sounds like you have one of two problems either the IAC valve is getting slow to respond and needs cleaning or replacement or you have a vacuum leak.

Here are some guides that will help us get to the bottom of the problem and get is fixed:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-use-an-engine-vacuum-gauge

and

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-replace-an-idle-speed-control-motor-iac

and

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/stall-at-idle

Please run some tests and get back to us so we can keep helping you.

Cheers, Ken

Sep 11, 2017 at 11:35 AM
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KILLER_POLLO
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2004 ford exolorer did tune up disconnected the battery and when i try to turn it on it trys and the when it turn on it stalls what is wrong
Oct 9, 2020 at 12:33 PM (Merged)
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ASEMASTER6371
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you cleared the adaptive memory by disconnecting the battery. it has to relearn to idle. it still should idle at very low, 500 rpm, till it learns.

Roy
Oct 9, 2020 at 12:33 PM (Merged)
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DJCL
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Some times you will have to drive to get it to relearn to idle.
Oct 9, 2020 at 12:33 PM (Merged)
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KILLER_POLLO
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The wrench light light up and the service engine soon ilght is also
on so it has to relearn how to idle.
Oct 9, 2020 at 12:33 PM (Merged)
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ASEMASTER6371
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lets back up. why did you pull the cable?? was the light on?? if it was. what was the code??

Roy
Oct 9, 2020 at 12:33 PM (Merged)
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KILLER_POLLO
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The service engine soon light was on before i pulled the cable and i turned it on before i pulled the cable it was fine but the light was on so i pulled it and now i try to turn it on and the engine stalls i cant get it to run very long. PLEASE HELP
Thank you
Oct 9, 2020 at 12:33 PM (Merged)
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ASEMASTER6371
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what was the code??

Roy
Oct 9, 2020 at 12:33 PM (Merged)
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JFULTON806
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My explorer will stall when I slow down at a turn, it will jerk when I pick my speed back up. Also when I stop at a stop sign or light it will stall too. It died on me twice at a stop light and I could put it in park and it would start right back up, for the most part. I have driven it while the engine is hot and cold and it does it both ways. I hooked it up to the computer to see what was wrong and no error codes came back. I checked the fuel system, plugs, injectors and all seems good. Can you please tell me what you think the problem is? I also had my transmission serviced at 62000 miles as the normal servicing, not sure if that matters or not since we are talking about the engine. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Oct 9, 2020 at 12:33 PM (Merged)
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JACOBANDNICKOLAS
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Have you checked for vacuum leaks? Have you checked fuel pump pressure?
Oct 9, 2020 at 12:33 PM (Merged)
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KILLER_POLLO
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i dont know i dont own a computer for that
Oct 9, 2020 at 12:33 PM (Merged)
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JFULTON806
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Yes I have checked for vacuum leaks and fuel pump pressure. It seems to want to try to stall if I have to come to a sudden stop, i have noticed. I added an additive to my fuel to see if maybe its just bad gas. I still have a half of tank of that fuel.
Oct 9, 2020 at 12:33 PM (Merged)
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ASEMASTER6371
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you should never guess on this. there are over 1500 codes possible. you may have actually caused an issue by doing what you did. you removed the upper intake and hopefully replaced the orings. it could be vacuum leaks as well.

cannot give you a definitive answer without seeing it but i still think it needs to re learn which may require driving for a bit.

Roy
Oct 9, 2020 at 12:33 PM (Merged)
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JACOBANDNICKOLAS
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Has it made any difference?
Oct 9, 2020 at 12:33 PM (Merged)
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KILLER_POLLO
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THANK YOU sooooooo much i drove it for a while and it didnt turn off any more it was great but the service engine soon light is still on
Oct 9, 2020 at 12:33 PM (Merged)
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JFULTON806
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it has a little bit, but i notice that sudden stops or sometimes at a stop light it wants to try and stall still. What do you think it could be? I know its hard without seeing the car, but I just dont want to keep driving it and it cause more damage to it.
Oct 9, 2020 at 12:33 PM (Merged)
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ASEMASTER6371
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back to square 1. you need to have the code pulled and then get back to us with that info.

Roy
Oct 9, 2020 at 12:33 PM (Merged)
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JACOBANDNICKOLAS
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It is hard to tell. I'm going to try to explaine something. If you have ever drove in a car with a standard transmission, imagiane what it would feel like if you stopped without pushing the clutch in. The engine would continue pulling until the brakes overcome them and then it would die. Is that what your car feels like or does it just seem to die before a complete stop?
Oct 9, 2020 at 12:33 PM (Merged)
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JFULTON806
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thats kind of what it feels like, it comes to a complete stop and then tries to die. Like a standard transmission where you didnt push the clutch in or let it out too much and then it just dies on you, thats kind of what it reminds me of.
Oct 9, 2020 at 12:33 PM (Merged)
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JGRANVILLE1934
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My 2004 ford explorer 4.0l will not idle on its own only way to keep it running is to keep the gas pedal pressed to a 1000 rpm's. I did a test on it and its showing that the fuel rail in bank one is running to rich and the fuel rail in bank 2 is running to lean.its also getting a high voltage error to the fuel rail pressure sensor and its showing multiple misfires. I also know that atleast one of the timing chains tensioners has gone bad and I also need to change the air intake gasket. Im just looking for a direction to go in to getting the car back to idling normally. The problem happen about a month a car the car just died on the highway and after trying to start it a few dozen times it finally started been then thats when its stopped idling on its own and hasnt idled since
Oct 9, 2020 at 12:33 PM (Merged)
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JACOBANDNICKOLAS
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Based on that, I would say the lock up converter is staying engaged and killing the engine. It could be a sensor, but I hate to say it, you may need to see a trans mechanic on this one.
Oct 9, 2020 at 12:34 PM (Merged)
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STRAILER
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Its sounds like you are on the right track with the intake gasket, also check for broken vacuum lines while you do the gasket, please get back to me so we can help others
Oct 9, 2020 at 12:34 PM (Merged)
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ML1954
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After replacing battery, I immediately starting having problems with my truck dying when put in gear. I had not had this problem before. I would have to start the truck in neutral and keep one foot on the gas and one on the brake, then slip it into gear to take off. This happened intermittantly for 6-8 months. The past month it became increasingly difficult to keep the truck running long enough to get it into gear. About 2 weeks ago it quit completely. It would start but immediately die. It threw 3 codes...P0506, P0171 and P0401. This Explorer does not have an IAC valve as it is drive-by-wire. We replaced the Throttle Position Sensor. Once that was done the truck would idle in Park and in Drive, but had NO acceleration. Truck then threw codes P2111 and P2104. Replaced the Throttle Pedal. Still no acceleration and once again have the original problem that truck will not idle.
Oct 9, 2020 at 12:34 PM (Merged)
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KERENSELF
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Hi there!
Your troublecodes are still indicating a Throttle Actuator control problem. (which I'm sure you already knew) My suggestion would be to get a wiring diagram for the engine/emission controls. In most cases the onboard computer sends reference voltage to the TPS. The TPS is typically just a coil that tightens up when the throttle is opened and that changes the resistance of the coil, which changes the output signal back to the computer - which is one way it the computer calculates engine load. Before I replaced anything else, I would get a volt meter (or someone who has one and knows how to use it) and check the control circuit for that reference voltage. - your service manual should tell you what it should be. If it's not in the correct range, you'll need to backtrack that circuit to trace the problem.
It may also be worth it to you to pay a shop to read data stream info with their diagnostic machine, which will be much more specific than a code reader.
Hope that helps. Good luck!

PS - I suspect the timing in relation to the battery replacement is just a coincidence, but stranger things have happened.......
Oct 9, 2020 at 12:34 PM (Merged)
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ROPEDOG911
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When I drive my car for about 30 minutes or longer and come to a stop sign or traffic light, the car cuts off. Im able to crank the car back up and continue driving. Sometimes, I give it press the gas pedal to keep it from cutting off. Secondly, sometimes when I'm driving I start slowing down way before I get to the stop sign and it starts acting like its going to cut off when I make my turn left or right and I have to keep pressing the gas pedal to keep it from cutting off.
Oct 9, 2020 at 12:34 PM (Merged)
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JACOBANDNICKOLAS
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Has the check engine light come on? HAve you checked for vacuum leaks or fuel pressure?

Let me know.

Joe
Oct 9, 2020 at 12:34 PM (Merged)
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ROPEDOG911
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good fuel pressure, no vaccum leaks and the engine light doesn't come on. I've changed the oxygen sensors, idle control valve.
Oct 9, 2020 at 12:34 PM (Merged)
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WILFREDO SOLER
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i turn my 2004 ford explorer on and when i put it in drive it starts to stall then it turns off what could the problem be
Oct 9, 2020 at 12:34 PM (Merged)
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JACOBANDNICKOLAS
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Check for vacuum leaks. If the check engine light is on, have the computer scanned (most parts stores will do it for free). Check the idle air control solenoid. Finally, check fuel pump pressure.
Oct 9, 2020 at 12:34 PM (Merged)
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