Engine wont start and run?

Tiny
MATT67665
  • MEMBER
  • 1992 FORD EXPLORER
I have a explorer that won't start. I was driving about 25 miles and hr and it just stooped running. I tried to restart it but it won't run. When I got it home I checked for fire and there is no fire. So then I checked for fuel and there is no fuel pressure. The relay comes on but the pump don't run. It cranks fine. I replaced the ignition coil pack, crank sensor, and the computer that is in the passenger side kick panel. I still have no fire or fuel. I have checked every fuse. The mini and maxi fuses. I also checked the fuel shut off switch and its fine. What is the matter with this crazy clown car. I have been working on cars for 10 years and I have never had this issue.
Monday, January 11th, 2010 AT 6:28 PM

13 Replies

Tiny
RASMATAZ
  • MECHANIC
  • 75,992 POSTS
Check the computer wiring connectors for corrosion/tightness if okay test the EEC power relay this is involved with the fuel pump relay and coil to include the computer When you turn the key to the on position without cranking the engine over can you hear the fuel pump run in the tank for 5 seconds?

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/car-cranks-but-wont-start

Please run down this guide and report back.
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Monday, January 11th, 2010 AT 6:44 PM
Tiny
MATT67665
  • MEMBER
  • 14 POSTS
Ok yes I did check the computer and the connections were clean when I put the new computer in. Where is the eec power relay? There is one relay that is next to the blower motor that runs the fuel pump and it clicks when I turn the switch on. Under the the maxi fuse panel there another panel that has relays in it. Is it one of them? This is so flustrateing
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Monday, January 11th, 2010 AT 7:04 PM
Tiny
MATT67665
  • MEMBER
  • 14 POSTS
Ok I have checked the connections and they seem to be ok. I checked that relay that you said and it is working its clicking when the keys turned on. I also unplugged the ignition coil pack module and checked for power and its getting power. I have changed the coil pack, crank sensor, computer inside the passenger kick panel and I have changed the little black computer box thats located in front of the battery looks to be a module. I cleaned the elctricaly plugs on the drivers side and the big one thats under the alternator. What have I missed? What is wrong
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Tuesday, January 12th, 2010 AT 11:20 AM
Tiny
RASMATAZ
  • MECHANIC
  • 75,992 POSTS
Check and test the EEC power relay and the Fuel pump relay
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Tuesday, January 12th, 2010 AT 1:01 PM
Tiny
MATT67665
  • MEMBER
  • 14 POSTS
Ok I went out and bought a new eec relay and fuel pump relay and it still don't have fire or fuel. With regardes to the new stuff that I have all ready put on there
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Tuesday, January 12th, 2010 AT 5:20 PM
Tiny
RASMATAZ
  • MECHANIC
  • 75,992 POSTS
Still no spark or fuel check the computer this is my last place to include the ignition switch
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Tuesday, January 12th, 2010 AT 8:57 PM
Tiny
MATT67665
  • MEMBER
  • 14 POSTS
Hey check this out. I found out that the maxi fuse was blown for the eec power relay. I replaced it and it blew again. I used a jumper wire and the fuel came on and it ran for 10 seconds and then it burned the wire into. What would make it have a short that bad that it would burn the jumper wire? I have traced them and can't see anything physical that would cause it to short out. With regards to the new things that I put on it
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Tuesday, January 12th, 2010 AT 10:08 PM
Tiny
DNEEDHELP
  • MEMBER
  • 1 POST
  • 1992 FORD EXPLORER
Other Category problem
1992 Ford Explorer V6 Four Wheel Drive Automatic 93000 miles

It would not start and I noticed the fuel pump would run for a minute or 2. When it stopped the car would start. I had the pump replaced and it started normally for a few days. Now the pump is taking10 to 15 seconds before is stops and the car will not start untill then. Any suggestions. Thanks
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Wednesday, December 30th, 2020 AT 7:06 PM (Merged)
Tiny
MERLIN2021
  • MECHANIC
  • 17,250 POSTS
Under the hood find the power distribution center, onRight fender well, in there you will find the fuel pump relay, it needs to be replaced, or the regulator on the fuel rail...To figure that out, you need to pressure test the sysem...


https://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/62217_FPR_1.jpg

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Wednesday, December 30th, 2020 AT 7:06 PM (Merged)
Tiny
JEREMY26
  • MEMBER
  • 1 POST
  • 1992 FORD EXPLORER
  • 6 CYL
  • 4WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 125,000 MILES
I have rebuilt my engine, and installed new after market heads because my old ones cracked. The reason I rebuilt it was that I blew a radiator hose and overheated it, and it failed to start afterwards. I am getting only 70lbs compression in every cylinder, a local mechanic told me that I might have jumped a tooth on my timing belt. Would overheating the engine originally cause the timing to jump? And if so, do I replace the chain, retime it and it will run? Please help me!
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Wednesday, December 30th, 2020 AT 7:07 PM (Merged)
Tiny
BLACKOP555
  • MECHANIC
  • 10,386 POSTS
When you put on the new heads what did they come with?

Did you reuse the pushrods, valve springs, valves?

Also if you have two different length pushrods make sure they are in the proper place.
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Wednesday, December 30th, 2020 AT 7:07 PM (Merged)
Tiny
BILLBCLK
  • MEMBER
  • 1 POST
  • 1992 FORD EXPLORER
  • 4 CYL
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 200,177 MILES
My Explorer will not start. For about a month it would start and I would drive the 12 miles to work back and forth. I noticed that if I parked and go right back in it would start but run very rough.

It always ran fine when cold. Now it want start at all.
Could this be a timing issue?
Does the 1992 Explorer have a belt or chain?
How expensive would this be at a repair shop?
Can I do this myself? (I have done other major/minor repairs in the past.
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Wednesday, December 30th, 2020 AT 7:08 PM (Merged)
Tiny
JGAROFALO
  • MECHANIC
  • 489 POSTS
Not likely a timing problem, but more likely a fuel or ignition problem. This definitely sounds like a temperature related problem.

Start by checking fuel pressure and spark. One of the two is missing.

On the fuel side, you can potentially have problems with fuel pump, filter, relay, or fuse.

On the ignition side, you could have potential problems with coil pack, crank position sensor, ignition module.

As far as timing goes, this engine has a timing chain. It is either good or bad, with no in-between! Not possible to run one day, not the next, and then run again later. Once it becomes a problem, it has to be repaired before it will run again. You can tell if the timing jumped by listening as you crank the engine. If it has jumped, it will sound as if there were no spark plugs in the engine (low or no compression).
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Wednesday, December 30th, 2020 AT 7:08 PM (Merged)

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