Well I took it to a local mechanic, and here is what I found out. The deactivation switch had gone out, and once they replaced it everything worked fine. I probably paid more than if I would have done it myself, but it was way cheaper than taking it back to the ford house. They wanted $100 just to diagnose the problem. I paid that for the whole fix (diagnosis, parts, and labor) at a local mechanic.
You guys were correct though it is on the bottom of the master cynlinder and all Ford did in the recall is put a inline fuse that will blow between the brake pedal and the deactivation switch if it gets to hot.
Thanks for your help.
Thursday, March 22nd, 2007 AT 3:31 PM