1999 Ford Escort Timing belt questions on the 2.0 SOHC

Tiny
IRFMAN2000
  • 1999 FORD ESCORT

Engine Mechanical problem
1999 Ford Escort 4 cyl Front Wheel Drive Automatic 122700 miles

I'm planning on replacing the timing belt myself when the weather breaks. My question is when installing the new belt how do I put it on without moving the camshaft? I did read that its supposed to installed at the crank 1st and the other pulleys. That's my biggest fear since I don't want to throw it out of time. If I do mistakenly move it does it matter which way I turn the cam to reline it?

Another question is the tensioner is spring loaded like the drive belt tensioner? I read up that you can move it with a allen wrench without loosening the bolt and put the drill bit in to keep it in place.

Last question is when I take off the crankshaft pulley, will the engine turn to the left a little? I keep hearing that if you turn it that way, it can cause damage. When I do get the pulley off, can I put the bolt back in to line up the marks?

This is my 1st time ever doing a timing belt since i'm mechanically inclined on most other general repairs so that's why i'm asking all of these questions. Thanks in advance.

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Saturday, January 24th, 2009 AT 2:03 PM

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Tiny
BILLYMAC
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Hi, this is simple . First line the marks up mark them with white paint or yellow. Next remove the accessory belts a/c p/s alt. Remove the crank pulley put the bolt back in the crank. Line the marks back up. Release the tensioner. Remove the timeing belt. Install new one crank first put the slack in the belt on the tensioner side release the tensioner. Turn eng over BY HAND 2 OR THREE REVOLUTIONS. TIGHTEN THE TENSIONER. Put bottom cover on and crank pulley check marks one more time. Start eng if runs normal. Install the rest of the parts. Good luck billymac

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Saturday, January 24th, 2009 AT 2:14 PM
Tiny
IRFMAN2000
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Damn that was a fast repsonse. Thanks again for it. So I won't damage the engine by turning it clockwise while removing the crankshaft bolt huh? If that's the case thats a good thing.

On the tensioner, I thought it is an auto tensioner like the drive belt one. I found out that you can just use the allen wrench to turn it without loosening the bolt and put the bit in to lock it. I also saw in haynes that the spark plugs have to be taken out. From what I see, people skip that step.

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Saturday, January 24th, 2009 AT 2:30 PM
Tiny
IRFMAN2000
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Damn that was a fast repsonse. Thanks again for it. So I won't damage the engine by turning it clockwise while removing the crankshaft bolt huh? If that's the case thats a good thing.

On the tensioner, I thought it is an auto tensioner like the drive belt one. I found out that you can just use the allen wrench to turn it without loosening the bolt and put the bit in to lock it. I also saw in haynes that the spark plugs have to be taken out. From what I see, people skip that step.[/Quote:b4807e16b3]

Oh yea two more question, when I replace the water pump, is it easier to remove the tensioner? And is the camshaft easy to move(like spinning freely like a wheel)? Like I said I don't want to throw the cam out of time. Thanks again.

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Saturday, January 24th, 2009 AT 2:34 PM
Tiny
BILLYMAC
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Yes you will not hurt the eng by looseing the bolt however you will have to hold the eng to loosen that bolt anyway an impact works great for that. Yes I take the tensioner off to replace the pump. No the cam does not spin freely valves open and close it will not spin by itself and if you mark it from the beginning you never have to worry. Although eng damage is not likely with this eng and all overhead cam engs. You must use caution. The spark plugs. Yes the proper way is to remove the spark plugs. And no I don, t if any at all just the number one. So I can make sure it is on compression stroke. Hope this helps billymac

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Saturday, January 24th, 2009 AT 8:44 PM
Tiny
IRFMAN2000
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Billymac. Thanks for answering all of my questions. I really do appreciate it. I think I feel more confident doing the job.

So the cam takes almost as much resistance to turn as the crankshaft right? You told me they are turned by the valves.

You didn't answer the question on the tensioner lol. Is it automatic(springs back and forth like th drivebelt one)? Like I said I keep reading that it is and you told me that I have to loosen the bolt to move it so i'm confused. Thanks again. I hope i'm not driving you crazy with this lol.

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Sunday, January 25th, 2009 AT 3:04 PM
Tiny
OBXAUTOMEDIC
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Hi irfman2000,

billymac gave you great info and good advise.

Just thought I'd through in some Removal and Install instructions along with a couple pic's to help out.

Press your "CTRL" and the "+" key to zoom in for better reading...


http://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/188069_99escorttimingbeltremove_1.jpg




http://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/188069_99escorttimingbeltinstall_1.jpg



Fig 1


http://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/188069_99escorttimingmarks_1.jpg



Fig 2


http://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/188069_99escorttimetensioner_1.jpg

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Sunday, January 25th, 2009 AT 3:23 PM
Tiny
IRFMAN2000
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Hey obxautomedic thanks for the reply but i've already read and studied the book but all I needed to know is that when I take off the belt if I can just turn the tensioner pulley with the allen wrench without loosening the bolt? That's what I keep reading up on. It never said to loosen the bolt according to the haynes manual. So I guess its not an automatic tensioner huh?

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Sunday, January 25th, 2009 AT 3:33 PM
Tiny
OBXAUTOMEDIC
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No, you will have to loosen the tensioners.

Take a look at my post above at the remove pic.

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Sunday, January 25th, 2009 AT 3:47 PM
Tiny
IRFMAN2000
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Yea I understood the print you sent me but I keep reading that it is spring loaded. In that case why does it say to stick a drill bit or something thin to hold it back? Shouldn't stay back by itself since you gotta loosen the bolt anyway? It if doesn't stay back by itself should I mark where it was originally at then remove it? Sorry i'm just trying to get this straight here since the timing belt thing is new to me.

Oh yea on the camshaft, it does take a lot to move right? I just dont want to throw that part out of time when I slip the new belt on. Thanks again.

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Sunday, January 25th, 2009 AT 3:55 PM
Tiny
OBXAUTOMEDIC
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Yes, it is spring loaded, No the tension when you loosen the bolt the tension goes in the direction of the belt making it tighter.

No, you don't want to mark it. With the new belt it may make it to tight or to loose. Not all belts are exactly the same size and that it why a tensioner was put there.

As far as the Cam movement, it doesn't take as much to turn it as is does for the Crank. You can move it with your hands, It gets hard once it opens a Valve. If you move it around a little (Clock Wise or Counter Clockwise) it will not hurt anything.

Also, since you will be there already are you planning on replacing the Water Pump.

Here is one thing you can do.

Before putting it all back together. You can start the vehicle just Don't Run it more than 5 -10 seconds. Do make sure your radiator hoses are connected. And have someone start it for you while you watch the timing belt because it does have a tendency to walk off since the cover is not there to keep it in place.

And to be honest they can be a pain getting back on you will just have to work it.

.

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Sunday, January 25th, 2009 AT 9:54 PM
Tiny
IRFMAN2000
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Yes, it is spring loaded, No the tension when you loosen the bolt the tension goes in the direction of the belt making it tighter.

No, you don't want to mark it. With the new belt it may make it to tight or to loose. Not all belts are exactly the same size and that it why a tensioner was put there.

As far as the Cam movement, it doesn't take as much to turn it as is does for the Crank. You can move it with your hands, It gets hard once it opens a Valve. If you move it around a little (Clock Wise or Counter Clockwise) it will not hurt anything.

Also, since you will be there already are you planning on replacing the Water Pump.

Here is one thing you can do.

Before putting it all back together. You can start the vehicle just Don't Run it more than 5 -10 seconds. Do make sure your radiator hoses are connected. And have someone start it for you while you watch the timing belt because it does have a tendency to walk off since the cover is not there to keep it in place.

And to be honest they can be a pain getting back on you will just have to work it.

.[/Quote:68333a12cb]

Yes i'm planning on doing the water pump also. I do see a little oil on the bottom of the timing cover so I might possibly need a crankshaft seal too. Is the crank sprocket easy to get off? I figured i'd do as much as I can while i'm in there becuase i'm not tearing the shit down again lol because of something I didn't do.

Back on the tensioner subject do you usually change it? I know some people don't but I heard its recommended. When I put it back on and tighten the bolt after taking the bit out, it won't put a lot of tension on the belt right? I know the tension is critical on a belt.

Thanks again for the reply. Damn you guys are great lol.

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Sunday, January 25th, 2009 AT 10:26 PM
Tiny
BILLYMAC
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Hold tensioner out of the way while you replace belt. YOU HAVE TO LOOSEN BOLT. The bolt makes sure the tensioner does not kick back. Haynes manual is not descriptive enough to explain this. Thanks. Car pro tech thanks for your input billymac

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Monday, January 26th, 2009 AT 8:37 AM
Tiny
IRFMAN2000
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Ok cool. Thanks gentlemen for answering all of my questions on this job. I greatly appreciate it. Haynes sucks balls. I know I should've went ahead and stil got a chiltons. One more question and this will be it, should I still replace the tensioner though? With the kind of mileage I have on it do you think it'll be still good?

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Monday, January 26th, 2009 AT 6:31 PM
Tiny
BILLYMAC
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Hi again yes always a good idea to replace tensioner water pump. And no prob we are happy to help anytime. The only stupid question is the one that wasn, t asked good luck billymac

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Monday, January 26th, 2009 AT 8:10 PM
Tiny
IRFMAN2000
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Well thanks agin, now I feel more confident on doing the job now. It won't be until the weather breaks like march or no. Too damn cold to do it and I want plenty of light to do it instead of doing it in a garage.

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Monday, January 26th, 2009 AT 8:15 PM
Tiny
IRFMAN2000
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I did say I do have a little oil on the bottom of the the timing cover and possibly might need a crankshaft seal. How hard is it to replace it and to remove the sprocket? Thanks. Ok promise no more questions on this thread after this lol.

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Monday, January 26th, 2009 AT 8:20 PM
Tiny
OBXAUTOMEDIC
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The spocket should pull off without problem. And you should be able to pry the seal out with a flat head screw driver, cause it won't matter if you tear it up.

And hate to burst your bubble but Haynes bought out Chilton a few years ago.

And also ask as many questions as you need in order to get the job done. Thats is what we are here for.
Even if it takes a hundred or more posts to get there.

Good luck and let us know how you do.

.

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Monday, January 26th, 2009 AT 9:48 PM
Tiny
IRFMAN2000
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The spocket should pull off without problem. And you should be able to pry the seal out with a flat head screw driver, cause it won't matter if you tear it up.

And hate to burst your bubble but Haynes bought out Chilton a few years ago.

And also ask as many questions as you need in order to get the job done. Thats is what we are here for.
Even if it takes a hundred or more posts to get there.

Good luck and let us know how you do.

.[/Quote:718a0374e5]

Wow, I didnt know haynes bought out chiltons. Good to know lol. Thanks a lot for that. But anyways so the sprocket just pulls straight out? How hard is it and what the best way to do it? It wouldn't throw off the timing right? Thanks again in advance.

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Monday, January 26th, 2009 AT 9:56 PM
Tiny
OBXAUTOMEDIC
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You may need to pry it a little with a flat screw driver, but should come off very easily. No it won't throw off timing it will only go on one way.

.

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Monday, January 26th, 2009 AT 10:37 PM
Tiny
IRFMAN2000
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Oh ok. I thought the sprocket was held on by a tork or an allen bolt and had to be pulled off with a tool. But I didn't know it's easy to take off by just pulling it off.

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Tuesday, January 27th, 2009 AT 4:49 AM

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