Flashing Drive “D” light

CHRISAUSTIN

MEMBER
2011 HONDA CRV
4 CYL
2WD
AUTOMATIC
110 MILES

The Drive light on our car has just started flashing, and the car is driving rough. We will not drive it until this is figured out.

Any idea what the problem is? What’s the best way to find out and fix it?

We will gladly make a donation. And after posting this question several other similar questions posted. We can take it to AutoZone no problem.

Thanks,
Megan

9 Replies

JACOBANDNICKOLAS

MECHANIC
108,117 POSTS

Welcome to 2CarPros.

No need for a donation, Megan. I have to be honest, this type if issue is going to require a scanner that can read specific types of codes. I will try to explain. When the power-train control module (PCM) senses an abnormality in the input or output system, the D indicator ) in the gauge control module will usually blink.

Since you indicated the vehicle isn't running properly or driveability has changed, it could be a number of things from a simple corroded connection at the PCM, to an emissions related issue. The only way to know which way to go is this. If the check engine light is on also, have the computer scanned for diagnostic trouble codes. These will be basic codes that most parts stores can retrieve and usually will do it for free.

If you have codes, let me know what they are. If there is no check engine light or codes, there is a procedure that I can explain how to jump the system to the SCS mode, but I need to make sure you are comfortable with doing it. It will require you to jump a pin in the data link connector (DLC) to ground.

Let me know if I can help.

Joe

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Sunday, September 29th, 2019 AT 7:05 PM

CHRISAUSTIN

MEMBER
13 POSTS

Hello Joe-

Thanks for the reply.

We took the car to AutoZone and the reader came back with "Transmission Fluid Pressure Trip A". What do you think, can we do this ourselves?

Would it be necessary to change the transmission fluid? Is this a part that anyone at Jiffy Lube could pop in?

Thanks-
Megan and Chris

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Monday, September 30th, 2019 AT 11:37 AM

JACOBANDNICKOLAS

MECHANIC
108,117 POSTS

Do you have the actual code number? Chances are it is either a P0842 or P0843. The either codes deals with a pressure sensor. I will try to explain how it works. The transmission fluid pressure switch A (2nd clutch) is installed in the hydraulic pressure circuit to the 2nd clutch. When hydraulic pressure is supplied to the 2nd clutch, the switch is turned ON. When hydraulic pressure is not supplied to the 2nd clutch, the switch is turned OFF. The signal from transmission fluid pressure switch A (2nd clutch) is input to the powertrain control module (PCM). The PCM detects the hydraulic pressure supply conditions at the gear change to 2nd gear (1st --> 2nd, 3rd --> 2nd) to reduce the shock that occurs at the gear change. If transmission fluid pressure switch A (2nd clutch) is OFF while driving the vehicle with the rotation speed ratio of the input/output pulses is that of 2nd gear, the PCM detects a transmission fluid pressure switch A (second clutch) failure and stores a DTC.

Now, based on which of the two codes you got should help me determine if it is the sensor or if more diagnostics are required. Either way, and please understand this doesn't benefit me in any way, it isn't an easy job. There could be an electrical issues at the PCM, a bad sensor, an issue with the 2nd gear clutch pack, and so on.

I hope I'm not confusing you. And to be honest, I wouldn't think this is something that can be done by a lube tech. It requires a person with understanding, the right tooling, and the knowledge to narrow things down.

If you get me the code, I will send you the diagnostic flow chart so you can see what is involved.

Let me know.

Joe

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Monday, September 30th, 2019 AT 7:32 PM

CHRISAUSTIN

MEMBER
13 POSTS

Hi Joe -

The code we were given was P0843. You're not confusing me. We're grateful for the thoughts. In fact, we've even searched on YouTube the process of replacing this sensor, and gotten a quote from the local Honda Dealer on the part. This is something where our local dealer's part is $110.00 with a new gasket. Not sure where the gasket is needed (yet). And the quote we received from a local auto shop was $500.00 which included replacing both sensors (A & B, I'm assuming), and a transmission flush.

At this point, $500.00 is expensive, but better than what we had though it could be. Considering that they would replace both sensors and do the flush, makes me wonder if this is a good enough deal and good scheduled maintenance on a car that has 100,000 miles.

What do you think?

The alternative is to replace the part ourselves, and it is something we could do, but also would take an afternoon considering we're not seasoned mechanics.

Megan and Chris

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Tuesday, October 1st, 2019 AT 6:11 AM

JACOBANDNICKOLAS

MECHANIC
108,117 POSTS

Welcome back:

If that price includes everything plus the flush, it's not bad. As far as the gasket, it goes between the sensor and valve body. With the mileage on the vehicle, it should be serviced.

Now for my concern. Is the sensor the problem? I would hate to see you replace the parts and find it doesn't resolve the issue. What did the dealership quote you? Are either of the shops willing to diagnose the problem to confirm what they plan to do fixes the issue? Or, if the problem isn't resolved what is their plan of action and how will you be charged?

Joe