Engine will not crank at low temperatures, but accessories turn on

SKACZYNSKI11

MEMBER
2003 HONDA ACCORD
2.4L
4 CYL
2WD
AUTOMATIC
184,000 MILES

My car has a quite annoying problem in cold temperatures. Essentially, I've been stranded at work three times now as my car on days the temperature has been below 20 F while I'm leaving. I used to get a grinding/clicking noise from the starter relay which I narrowed down to the ignition switch and I assumed it was the same problem, it was not. I changed out the battery as well, and the starter relay itself. The accessories turn on no problem, and the engine Does on rare occasions start without issue (by this I mean I will be trying several times turning the key and eventually one attempt will be a normal start, it won't be a slow crank or anything just a normal start). It's just like the starter doesn't even attempt to turn. Jumping does not fix it. Tried that. It just decided to work once (not while connected. We had abandoned jumping it and decided to try a few more times before leaving the car for the night, and it decided to spring to life one of those last few attempts. When I parked the car and tried again, same issue)

Would this be a starter solenoid issue? Or would it be the starter itself? I'm running out of possible options of things to replace.

This problem only occurs at low temperatures.

7 Replies

SQM

MECHANIC
6,383 POSTS

Hello,

Many times, with a bad starter, when you try to start the engine, it will make a clicking noise, but not engage. Depending on the condition of the starter sometimes if you keep trying it will start the engine.
Now when you turn the key, what happens? Do you hear the starter clicking? Or does it not make any noise at all?

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/starter-not-working-repair

As another possibility is a faulty ignition switch. A worn ignition switch can trigger similar no start issues. But is you keep trying it will startup normal? This is usually due to worn components inside the switch. Cold weather can make this issue more apparent due to everything tends to shrink in cold and that will make the worn connector even difficult to make contact.

Please let me know of any questions.
Thank you.

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Thursday, March 10th, 2022 AT 9:51 PM

SKACZYNSKI11

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8 POSTS

I've replaced the ignition switch because it was causing the starter relay to quickly open and shut repeatedly giving a rapid clicking noise that sounded more like a grind (came from the lower left footwell next to the relay itself). There's no clicking coming from the starter. The car just remains completely silent. Accessories turn on, engine doesn't crank, no clicking, no grinding, it's just completely silent. The starter doesn't even attempt to engage.

Update: I got up this morning to try and start it, it did crank but only after 15 seconds of holding it in the crank position. My car specifically and probably other models too, have a part labeled Ignition Switch, which doesn't actually come into contact with the key, it's on the other side of the steering wheel and was causing the buzzing. Could it be the actual lock cylinder?

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Friday, March 11th, 2022 AT 4:40 AM

SQM

MECHANIC
6,383 POSTS

Are you talking about the component circled in red?
That is the actual electrical component of the ignition switch.
Can you tell if that part gets hot to the touch?

If it is buzzing while you are unable to start it and it is getting hot. Which can mean an internal failure and causing this to have too much internal resistance.

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Friday, March 11th, 2022 AT 10:31 PM

SKACZYNSKI11

MEMBER
8 POSTS

No, I had replaced that part. It was replaced by Honda as it had been recalled and was causing the starter relay in the footwell to spam open and shut causing a loud and unpleasant buzzing, usually leading to the car not starting, but occasionally it would also not make a buzz and still not start. I assumed they were the same problem and found the ignition switch was the culprit so I replaced it. It fixed the buzzing, but it did not fix the problem of just staying completely silent.

I'm talking about the entire lock cylinder assembly, the portion where the key goes into.

I'm trying to figure out whether it is something in the starter or starter solenoid, or if the cold is causing some wires or plates or whatever the lock cylinder shorts to send power to the starter that shrinks slightly in the cold and cannot come into contact with the part it's supposed to be shorting.

Starter is harder to replace but much cheaper than the $250.00 to $400.00 lock cylinder assembly.

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Saturday, March 12th, 2022 AT 9:13 AM

SQM

MECHANIC
6,383 POSTS

One thing you can try is check the starter solenoid. I wonder if that is acting out when the temperature is low.
I have attached the diagrams and test process for the solenoid below.

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