Engine low power?

Tiny
MIZZOURAH78
  • MEMBER
  • 2005 CHRYSLER TOWN AND COUNTRY
  • 3.8L
  • V6
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 130,000 MILES
While driving, the engine started making a fast noise, followed by losing power to the point it wouldn't go over about 40 mph, and then started smoking. After getting it home, I opened the hood and noticed there was some smoke still coming from the air box. I took off the lid and found that oil was getting into the filter. I looked under the vehicle and found about 1/2 quart of oil on my driveway. To verify the smoke, I disconnected the air line that goes from the engine to the airbox and it emitted white smoke.
Tuesday, May 21st, 2019 AT 12:28 PM

21 Replies

Tiny
ASEMASTER6371
  • MECHANIC
  • 52,796 POSTS
Good afternoon,

Can you upload a video of the noise and the smoke? I want to hear the noise so I can help you. These guides can help us fix it

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/engine-has-low-power-output

and

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/symptoms-of-low-engine-power

and

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/engine-noises

Please run down these guides and report back.
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Tuesday, May 21st, 2019 AT 12:32 PM
Tiny
MIZZOURAH78
  • MEMBER
  • 3 POSTS
I added a video. Not seeing it here.
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Tuesday, May 21st, 2019 AT 12:40 PM
Tiny
MIZZOURAH78
  • MEMBER
  • 3 POSTS
It successfully loaded. Can you see it?
Video (Click to make bigger)
Thumb
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Tuesday, May 21st, 2019 AT 12:43 PM
Tiny
ASEMASTER6371
  • MECHANIC
  • 52,796 POSTS
Got it.

This sounds like a broken piston in the engine. That would explain both the noise and smoking.

I would suggest replacing the engine with a used engine.

Roy
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Tuesday, May 21st, 2019 AT 1:00 PM
Tiny
ROGER MOELLER
  • MEMBER
  • 3 POSTS
  • 2004 CHRYSLER TOWN AND COUNTRY
  • 3.3L
  • 6 CYL
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 180,000 MILES
After the vehicle has been driven to normal operating temperatures and then stopped after that, it start up but idles rough and lacks power to where you can't get out of first or second gear.
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Monday, February 1st, 2021 AT 11:22 AM (Merged)
Tiny
KASEKENNY
  • MECHANIC
  • 18,907 POSTS
If this only happens on a hot restart then we need to suspect a temperature sensor issue. Basically the PCM bases the injector pulse on temp readings so if they are off then it is going to have performance issues.

Let's start with checking for codes and see if you there is an issue there that will help. If not, we may need a scan tool to look at live data. Do you have one that will do this?

If not, we may have to check voltage on each sensor and see if we can find something which is not the "easy" way to do this.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/checking-a-service-engine-soon-or-check-engine-light-on-or-flashing

If you don't have a scan tool we can stop by a parts store as most pull codes free of charge.
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Monday, February 1st, 2021 AT 11:22 AM (Merged)
Tiny
ROGER MOELLER
  • MEMBER
  • 3 POSTS
I had the van towed home Friday evening and then Saturday morning I started it up and it ran fine all day ! The check engine light had come on, but after driving it on Saturday, it went out. I could not find an auto parts store that would read the code(s) when the light was on. I went ahead and replaced the thermostat and ECT sensor as well. This weekend it's supposed to be real warm, so we'll see what gives.
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Monday, February 1st, 2021 AT 11:22 AM (Merged)
Tiny
KASEKENNY
  • MECHANIC
  • 18,907 POSTS
Sounds great. Progress is always a good thing. Clearly if it comes back on try to get the codes read. Even if it doesn't you may be able to get them even though the light is off. They normally go to a "stored" status and you can still get them. However, this is clearly not a priority if there is no issue.

Thanks for the update.
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Monday, February 1st, 2021 AT 11:22 AM (Merged)
Tiny
ROGER MOELLER
  • MEMBER
  • 3 POSTS
  • 2004 CHRYSLER TOWN AND COUNTRY
  • 3.3L
  • 6 CYL
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 180,000 MILES
After the vehicle has been driven to normal operating temperatures and then stopped after that, it start up but idles rough and lacks power to where you can't get out of first or second gear
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Monday, February 1st, 2021 AT 11:23 AM (Merged)
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
  • 110,125 POSTS
Hi,

Has the check engine light stayed on or flashed when the engine is running? If it does, you need to have the computer scanned for codes. Here is a quick video showing how it is done:

https://youtu.be/YV3TRZwer8k

I realize most people don't own a scanner, but often times a parts store will do it free of charge. If the light is staying on, do this first and let me know what codes are found. On the other hand, if it isn't staying on, let me know that as well.

Take care,
Joe
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Monday, February 1st, 2021 AT 11:23 AM (Merged)
Tiny
SHDIRECTOR
  • MEMBER
  • 1 POST
  • 2003 CHRYSLER TOWN AND COUNTRY
  • 6 CYL
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 96,000 MILES
My minivan has recently started running poorly and missing when the air conditioner is on. If I am going up hill the problem seems to be worse. Once I turn the air off the problem goes away.
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Monday, February 1st, 2021 AT 11:23 AM (Merged)
Tiny
LEGITIMATE007
  • MECHANIC
  • 5,121 POSTS
I would first check your map sensor, as this sensor measures load, and elevation changes, The a/c compressor always puts an additional load on your vehicle when it is turned on, also when going up a hill the elevation and load changes, so that would be the logical explanation, keep me posted
joe
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Monday, February 1st, 2021 AT 11:23 AM (Merged)
Tiny
GREGHUTTON
  • MEMBER
  • 2 POSTS
  • 2003 CHRYSLER TOWN AND COUNTRY
  • 6 CYL
  • AWD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 104,000 MILES
I have an issue with loss of power while driving my 2003 Chrysler Town & Country LXI AWD 3.8L V6 minivan. It is intermittent and has been difficult to resolve. Any ideas or suggestions? I previously had the starter, positive cable-splice, negative cable and transmission sensors replaced by a local dealer with no resolution.
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Monday, February 1st, 2021 AT 11:23 AM (Merged)
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
  • 110,125 POSTS
When it happens, does the check engine light come on? Have you checked to see if the catylatic converter to make sure it isn't partially plugged?
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Monday, February 1st, 2021 AT 11:23 AM (Merged)
Tiny
GREGHUTTON
  • MEMBER
  • 2 POSTS
Yes, the check engine light occasionally comes on, but not always. I have not checked the catalytic converter for blockage. The repairman has indicated that the problem appears to be the ECM. He indicated that when he tapped on it, the engine died or sputtered. Its a rather expensive part to replace.
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Monday, February 1st, 2021 AT 11:23 AM (Merged)
Tiny
ANGEL MORGAN
  • MEMBER
  • 1 POST
I have a 2013 town and country LXI v6 I had a loss of power I had radio dash lights a.C. Basically everything except power to the engine. After many trips to the shop. Replacing ECM module battery crankshaft sensor alternator and took dash off and check the welds behind the dash we're the speedometer is. After a lot of breaking down and headaches being this is my only vehicle I have.I spent a lot of money between the shop and parts. It turned out to be the ignition coil pack.I replaced it and the van has excellent power. Also it wasn't throwing codes either each time it broke down it never threw codes. It took me from November 2018 to March 1st. To figure out. Please do this before spending all the money and time that I did. Coil pack
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Monday, February 1st, 2021 AT 11:23 AM (Merged)
Tiny
KEN L
  • MASTER CERTIFIED MECHANIC
  • 51,782 POSTS
Excellent addition to this thread! Please feel free to help out whenever you are on the site :)
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Monday, February 1st, 2021 AT 11:23 AM (Merged)
Tiny
JPACKFAN
  • MEMBER
  • 1 POST
  • 1997 CHRYSLER TOWN AND COUNTRY
  • 6 CYL
  • FWD
  • MANUAL
  • 225,000 MILES
My 1997 Town & Country (3.8L) will occasionally shake when started and when not accelerate or run properly. This seems to be more frequent when starting the car after its already been warmed up (I stopped for gas yesterday after driving 80 miles trouble free and then it was shaking). So far when this happens I've been able to eventually get it up to speed and then its been okay, but it would shake quite a bit when under 35mph.

I've had the engine light come on with codes for "Misfire Cylinder #5" and "Too Lean-Bank 1". The plugs and wires were changed but the problem came back.

Also, twice while driving on the highway I hit the gas and there was nothing, the car coasted for 2-5 seconds and then it kicked in.

Its an old van with high miles so I'm not sure how much I'd want to spend on repairs. I've tried some fuel system cleaner but I don't know if I'm wasting my money with it.

Thank you.
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Monday, February 1st, 2021 AT 11:25 AM (Merged)
Tiny
JDL
  • MECHANIC
  • 16,098 POSTS
How long since overall tune-up? Use a gage and check fuel pressure. What about the fuel filter? Don't take any fuel lines loose unless you are sure there is no pressure on the system.
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Monday, February 1st, 2021 AT 11:25 AM (Merged)
Tiny
2CP-ARCHIVES
  • MEMBER
  • 4,540 POSTS
  • 1992 CHRYSLER TOWN AND COUNTRY
  • 230,000 MILES
We have replaced 5 different fuel pumps on our plymouth voyager and it is still losing power after about 1 -2 weeks can it be a bad coil or relay switch that is wrong? Please help us if you can
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Monday, February 1st, 2021 AT 11:25 AM (Merged)

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