Electrical Issues after Changing the Battery?

Dear Ken,

Thank you so much for your reply and help, and I am really sorry for the late response as I was on a work trip and just came back 3 days ago, I have checked your reply and thankfully as you mentioned it's not a permanent damage and hopefully it could be solved with your help. Now following your reply I did the following.

What I did during the 3 days,

1 - Battery Change
I went to the battery shop that I bought the battery from and requested a battery change (I know most likely it won't do anything but I did it) they accepted the change and now I have a normal lead-acid Duracell 60ah battery.

2 - Checking The Fuse Boxes
I have checked both the internal and external fuse boxes, both are ok no fuses are blown.

3 - Checking Battery Terminals
I have checked the battery terminals, both the positive and negative are clean and secure.

4 - Hard Reset
I have watched the video and bought the alligator clips and did exactly the same, connecting the positive terminal to the disconnected negative terminal and left it to about 30 minutes.

5 - Removing The New Led Projectors and the Harness
Just for checking after doing point 4 and nothing happened, I completely disconnected the projectors harness and removed the headlights (the issue happened after almost 3 weeks from installing the new projectors but I did this test only to check if they are doing anything or not) after that I repeated what I did in point 4 and started the car without the headlights.

After doing all these steps nothing happened, same issue and to clarify during my work trip the car was used by my brother, he said it works flawlessly and in the 3 days of testing the cars runs normal.
The issues only happens when connecting any OBD2 scanner, as I mentioned before I have tested 2 scanners the vGate and the Autel and I bought a third one ELM327 just to check, now the vGate and the ELM327 when connected to the OBD2 port the cluster starts acting weird and the same scenario as mentioned previously with the same codes.
The autel works and I could clear the codes produced by connecting the vGate and the ELM327 but it takes ages to connect and after clearing the codes let's say I want to check the live data from the ECU for the engine it will try to connect to it takes 5 minutes and then gives a message that the device unable to communicate with the control unit and won't connect, sometimes it will connect and show like 10 live data points and in fact I know that there are more than that, sometimes it will connect and show the live data but nothing is moving (testing the throttle body voltage fully pressed pedal but no change in the voltage), sometimes it will connect and show all the live data 2 to 3 minutes and then disconnects on its own.

Also, 2 things I noticed and I don't know if it's even related, the first when loading the car with any electrical load let's say lowering the windows or using the high beams or opening the sunroof or ac etc, the rpm drops and you feel a vibration in the car then the rpm stabilizes, it happens all the time even if you did it consecutively like lowering the windows and keep pressing the button the rpm drops and a vibration as soon as you remove the load it goes back the normal. The second thing, I noticed that yesterday I have an led bulbs in the fog lights, the car was off but the ignition on when I blow the horns the led in the fog lights slightly dims if I removed the load ie not blowing the horns the led will have the full brightens plus if I moved the steering wheel to the right or left same thing the led bulbs will dim.

I am really sorry for the long text as I want to convey the full picture. I will attach some videos hopefully it could show the issues and thank you so much in advance for the help Ken.

PS
The videos are for the Autel interface showing what happens when connecting a scanner it could be a little bit lengthy but it shows the problem plus another video for the electrical issue, also this time a new code showed c1616 can bus off as history code in the EPS, it's visible in one of the videos. Thank you : )

Dear Ken,

Thank you for your reply. I have done couple of tests and for what ever reason the car are getting worse I will attach some videos.

1 - Battery Voltage Check
The battery voltage while the car are cold and parked for almost 6 hours is 12.6v.

2 - AC Voltage Check
Now I don't know if my multimeter are bad (because it's very cheap) or not but what I was getting at 200v while the car are off is 26.3v and while the car are running and rpm at almost 1500 is 30.5v I know this doesn't make sense and I might need to buy a new one and re do the test because you mentioned that it should be 0 and this number seems to high.

3 - Full Load Voltage
I did a full load test, low beams, high beams, hazard lights, windows, rear window defroster, and AC on full blast the voltage was 13.4 to 13.5v.

That's all the tests I have done and I will include videos for each one in the attachment, now for the new issues I have discovered.

1 - AC Compressor Pulley/Clutch
When the AC is on I was looking at the clutch it seems it stops and lags 1 to 2 times in it's place and then spins (video will help) now I don't know if that's related or if that's the norm.

2 - Starter Hesitation
The starter started to hesitate when starting the car and I could hear it try to start then it starts I will include a video for the start and the sound, normally it starts directly and again same for point 1 I don't know it that's are related or if this could be the root of all the problems and could it damage anything if I keep using the car for the next 2 days until I order a new starter if it sounds damaged to you from the video, also I should note that when doing it 3 to 4 times or the car gets hot it's starts as normal.

Again I really appreciate the help Ken thank you so much.

Thank you for your reply and help Ken I really appreciate it.
I need to confirm some points before I go with a new alternator. When connecting the multimeter to the battery while the engine is off at 200v AC it shows about 26.3 now the alternator are off so how I am getting that number I don't know so I think it's either a bad multimeter because it's a cheap one or something else worng here. So, I will order a new multimeter in the next couple of days and update you with the findings.

Now for today I did a cranking test and the drop while starting was about 11.3v the lowest but the starter are making a really bad sound I will attach a video for it can you check it and give me your feedback. Could the starter be the issue since the beginning and not the alternator.