EGR valve vacuum hoses

Tiny
TOMASCAMBLOR
  • MEMBER
  • 1998 FORD F-150
  • V8
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 120,000 MILES
I am trying to find out what the other lines are in connection with the EGR valve system. On my truck there is a green hose that connects directly to the top of the EGR valve. I followed that back to the DPFM?? where I find that it connects to a hub which has another hose attached. So I figure the must work together somehow. So I followed that around to the other side of the compartment, behind the battery and found that the line was severed along with 2 other lines at another sort of hub. following the line after that it runs into the fender and then I lose it. It looks like it runs up front somewhere but I cannot figure that out. Are these lines important to the operation of my truck? Can I just do a patch job? Where do they run off to? How can I make sure they are not broken somewhere else? Why do they use crappy plastic parts in cars at all? I've up loaded a pic or two for you. I hope it helps. Thanks Guys. - Tomas, HM2, USN


http://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/231065_DSC02752_1.jpg


http://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/231065_DSC02754_1.jpg

Do you
have the same problem?
Yes
No
Thursday, August 21st, 2008 AT 5:23 AM

15 Replies

Tiny
BMRFIXIT
  • MECHANIC
  • 19,053 POSTS
The first "Hub" that you mention is a vacuum check valve, one end will go back to source vacuum (Intake). The ones behind the battery most likely are for the door controls for your heater & A/C. Have you noticed it stuck on defrost? You can patch the broken lines with small pieces of rubber vacuum hose. There is also most likely a vacuum reservoir for the dash controls, it will just be a plastic ball with vacuum lines to it

See the vacuum diagram below
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
+2
Thursday, August 21st, 2008 AT 6:18 AM
Tiny
CLINTCOSTON
  • MEMBER
  • 32 POSTS
  • 1993 FORD F-150
  • 5.0L
  • V8
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 200,000 MILES
My truck has a bad vibration when accelerating but idles perfect. It took a few weeks of this before the check engine light came on and when it did I took it to a shop and had it put on the diagnostic machine. The only code that came up was egr valve stuck closed. So I took it off and cleaned it real good. Got the spring moving freely again and put it all back together and still the same. So I replaced the $90 EGR valve. Same thing. Checked voltage in the position sensor. Had correct voltage that the book says it should have. Checked the vacuum lines and they crumbled in my hand. All of them dry rotted. So tonight I replaced all the vacuum lines to egr and charcoal cannister. And every other vacuum line I could find. And yep. Same thing. WTH? Does anyone have a suggestion to go to from here?
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Sunday, February 3rd, 2019 AT 12:31 PM (Merged)
Tiny
FREEMBA
  • MECHANIC
  • 1,152 POSTS
The vibration on acceleration could be a spark plug or spark plug wire breaking down under stress. However, at idle (when there is not much stress, it behaves normally. You will need to have your truck's ignition system connected to a "engine analyzer" or some equipment which can allow the mechanic to read its electrical pattern.

The same goes for the fuel injectors.
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Sunday, February 3rd, 2019 AT 12:31 PM (Merged)
Tiny
KIMNICK
  • MEMBER
  • 1 POST
  • 1998 FORD F-150
  • V8
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 175,000 MILES
Where is it located at and how hard is it to replace thanks kim
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
+1
Sunday, February 3rd, 2019 AT 12:31 PM (Merged)
Tiny
BLACKOP555
  • MECHANIC
  • 10,371 POSTS
It is located on the manifold, it is a very easy replacement. Make sure the mating surfaces are clean.

May help to use antiseize on the threads of the egr just in case it needs to be replaced again.

The hardest part will be getting the bolts loosened.
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Sunday, February 3rd, 2019 AT 12:31 PM (Merged)
Tiny
SUNMOONSTAR
  • MEMBER
  • 1 POST
  • 1994 FORD F-150
  • 150,000 MILES
I am trying to find the EGR Valve in my engine and can not seem to. Where is the EGR Valve located on a 1994 Ford F150 4.9L Inline 6 5 speed manual transmission. The truck is hesitant in starting. It does after a couple tries but I would like to find out why. I was told to clean the egr valve.
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Sunday, February 3rd, 2019 AT 12:31 PM (Merged)
Tiny
ASEMASTER6371
  • MECHANIC
  • 52,797 POSTS
You can remove it and soak it in parts clearer and blow it out. It is on the intake manifold. It is round about 4 to 5 inches with a sensor and vacuum line

Roy
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
+2
Sunday, February 3rd, 2019 AT 12:31 PM (Merged)
Tiny
JOE JR
  • MEMBER
  • 1 POST
  • 1997 FORD F-150
  • V8
  • 4WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 180,000 MILES
Do I adjust the idle speed or change something else?
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Sunday, February 3rd, 2019 AT 12:31 PM (Merged)
Tiny
WRENCHTECH
  • MECHANIC
  • 20,758 POSTS
The idle speed is not adjustable.

You may have a bad IAC ( idle air control) but try eliminating any vacuum leaks and cleaning the throttle body first. Remove the intake snorkel, have someone hold the throttle wide open for you and scrub the back side of the throttle plate and surrounding bore with an old tooth brush and some carb cleaner. Be sure to spray some into the small holes next to the throttle plate. That should help stabilize the idle. If it still has a problem, replace the IAC.
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Sunday, February 3rd, 2019 AT 12:31 PM (Merged)
Tiny
CHUCKY28
  • MEMBER
  • 2 POSTS
  • 1997 FORD F-150
  • V8
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 142,000 MILES
I am trying to figure out why the truck bogs down when I mash on the gas, its very noticable on the start of second gear. The truck still goes but you can feel and hear the drop in power. I replace the fuel pressure regulator, the plugs, plug wires and coils. I read that the egr valve or sensor can cause all this problems. I check the vaccum lines, they were good. Can you help me figure out this issue please, its the 97 f150 4.6L V8.
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Sunday, February 3rd, 2019 AT 12:31 PM (Merged)
Tiny
MERLIN2021
  • MECHANIC
  • 17,250 POSTS
There is an issue with MAF sensors(at air filter box) Heres the TSB, read and learn!
ARTICLE BEGINNING MASS AIR FLOW (MAF) - SENSOR CONTAMINATION - SERVICE TIP APPLICATION 1994-99 Econoline, F-150. F-250 LD,
ISSUE This TSB article is a diagnostic procedure to address vehicles that exhibit lean driveability symptoms and may or may not have any Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTCs) stored in memory. ACTION Follow the diagnostic procedures described in the following SERVICE TIP . The revised diagnostic procedure is a more accurate means of diagnosing the symptoms. SERVICE TIP MASS AIR FLOW (MAF) DISCUSSION MAF sensors can get contaminated from a variety of sources: dirt, oil, silicon, spider webs, potting compound from the sensor itself, etc. When a MAF sensor gets contaminated, it skews the transfer function such that the sensor over-estimates air flow at idle (causes the fuel system to go rich) and under-estimates air flow at high air flows (causes fuel system to go lean). This means Long Term Fuel Trims will learn lean (negative) corrections at idle and learn rich (positive) corrections at higher air flows. If vehicle is driven at Wide Open Throttle (WOT) or high loads, the fuel system normally goes open loop rich to provide maximum power. If the MAF sensor is contaminated, the fuel system will actually be lean because of under-estimated air flow. During open loop fuel operation, the vehicle applies Long Term Fuel Trim corrections that have been learned during closed loop operation. These corrections are often lean corrections learned at lower air flows. This combination of under-estimated air flow and lean fuel trim corrections can result in spark knock/detonation and lack of power concerns at WOT and high loads.
One of the indicators for diagnosing this condition is barometric pressure. Barometric pressure (BARO) is inferred by the Powertrain Control Module (PCM) software at part throttle and WOT (there is no actual BARO sensor on MAF-equipped vehicles, except for the 3.8L Supercharged engine). At high air flows, a contaminated MAF sensor will under-estimate air flow coming into the engine, hence the PCM infers that the vehicle is operating at a higher altitude. The BARO reading is stored in Keep Alive Memory (KAM) after it is updated. Other indicators are Long Term Fuel Trim and MAF voltage at idle. Symptoms à   Lack of Power à   Spark Knock/Detonation à   Buck/Jerk à   Hesitation/Surge on Acceleration à   Malfunction Indicator Lamp (MIL) Illuminated DTCs P0171, P0172, P0174, P0175 may be stored in memory OBDII DTCs à   P0171, P0174 (Fuel system lean, Bank 1 or 2) à   P0172, P0175 (Fuel system rich, Bank 1 or 2) à   P1130, P1131, P1132, (HO2S11 lack of switching, Bank 1) à   P1150, P1151, P1152, (HO2S21 lack of switching, Bank 2) OBDI DTCs à   181, 189 (Fuel system lean, Bank 1 or 2) à   179, 188 (Fuel system rich, Bank 1 or 2) à   171, 172, 173 (HO2S11 lack of switching, Bank 1) à   175, 176, 177 (HO2S21 lack of switching, Bank 2) à   184, 185 (MAF higher/lower than expected) à   186, 187 (Injector pulse width higher/lower than expected) 1. Look at the BARO PID. Refer to the BAROMETRIC PRESSURE REFERENCE TABLE in this article. At sea level, BARO should read about 159 Hz (29.91 in. Hg). As NOTE: The following procedure may also be used to diagnose vehicles that do not have fuel system/HO2S sensor DTCs. NOTE: Do not disconnect the battery. It will erase Keep Alive Memory and reset Long Term Fuel Trim and BARO to their starting/base values. The BARO Parameter Identification Display (PID) is used for this diagnostic procedure. All OBDII applications have this PID available. There are some OBDI vehicles that do not have the BARO PID, for these vehicles omit the BARO check and refer only to steps 2, 3, and 4 in the diagnostic procedure.
a reference, Denver, Colorado at 1524 meters (5000 ft.) altitude should be about 144 Hz (24.88 in. Hg.). Normal learned BARO variability is up to +/-6 Hz (+/-2 in. Hg.). If BARO indicates a higher altitude than you are at (7 or more Hz lower than expected), you may have MAF contamination. If available, Service Bay Diagnostic System (SBDS) has a Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP) sensor that can be used as a barometric pressure reference. Use "MAP/BARO" test under "Powertrain," "Testers and Meters." Ignore the hookup screen. Connect GP2 to the reference MAP on the following screen.
NOTE: Remember that most weather services report a local barometric pressure that has been corrected to sea level. the BARO PID, on the other hand, reports the actual barometric pressure for the altitude the vehicle is being operated in. Local weather conditions (high and low pressure areas) will change the local barometric pressure by several inches of mercury (+/-3 Hz, +/-1 in. Hg.). NOTE: BARO is updated only when the vehicle is at high throttle openings. Therefore, a vehicle which is driven down from a higher altitude may not have had an opportunity to update the BARO value in KAM. If you are not confident that BARO has been updated, perform three or four heavy, sustained accelerations at greater than half-throttle to allow BARO to update.
https://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/62217_150_1.jpg" alt="
https://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/62217_150_1.jpg" />
(LONGFT1 and/or LONGFT2 PIDs). If it is more negative than -12%, the fuel system has learned lean corrections which may be due to the MAF sensor over-estimating air flow at idle. Note that both Banks 1 and 2 will exhibit negative corrections for 2-bank system. If only one bank of a 2-bank system has negative corrections, the MAF sensor is probably not contaminated. 3. On a fully warmed up engine, look at MAF voltage at idle, in Neutral, A/C off (MAF V PID). If it's 30% greater than the nominal MAF V voltage listed in the Powertrain Control/Emissions Diagnosis (PC/ED) Diagnostic Value Reference Charts for your vehicle, or greater than 1.1 volts as a rough guide, the MAF sensor is over-estimating air flow at idle. 4. If at least two of the previous three steps are true, proceed to disconnect the MAF sensor connector. This puts the vehicle into Failure Mode and Effects Management (FMEM). In FMEM mode, air flow is inferred by using rpm and throttle position instead of reading the MAF sensor. (In addition, the BARO value is reset to a base/unlearned value.) If the lean driveability symptoms go away, the MAF sensor is probably contaminated and should be replaced. If the lean driveability symptoms do not go away, go to the PC/ED Service Manual for the appropriate diagnostics. After replacing the MAF sensor, disconnect the vehicle battery (5 minutes, minimum) to reset KAM, or on newer vehicles, use the "KAM Reset" feature on the New Generation Star (NGS) Tester and verify that the lean driveability symptoms are gone. WARRANTY INFORMATION WARRANTY STATUS: Information Only. OASIS CODES: 206000, 610000, 610500, 610600, 610700, 611000, 611500, 612000, 612500, 614000, 614500, 614600, 698298 NOTE: Due to increasingly stringent emission/OBDII requirements, it is possible for some vehicles with MAF sensor contamination to set fuel system DTCs and illuminate the MIL with no driveability concerns. Disconnecting the MAF on these vehicles will, therefore, produce no improvements in driveability. In these cases, if the BARO, LONGFT1, LONGFT2, and MAF V PIDs indicate that the maf is contaminated, proceed to replace the MAF sensor.
3/2/2009
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Sunday, February 3rd, 2019 AT 12:31 PM (Merged)
Tiny
CHUCKY28
  • MEMBER
  • 2 POSTS
I cleaned my MAF, replaced the egr valve and sensor. The truck still bogs. Still really noticable in 2nd gear the most. I sprayed carburetor cleaner around all the vaccum lines not finding anything. I noticed that my belt slips going into second gear before the bog down, could this be my bogging issue? That means I need a new belt, right? Well this is whats done on the truck in mods, jet chip, full K&N cold air intake, flow master exhuast system, and stage 2 shift kit. But this bogging was noticed before the upgrades. Do you think the truck has met its limits? Could it be possible my air fuel ratio is off, and if it is how do I fix it. Do I need to buy a performance MAF to help the computer get the right full air ratio? I also hear a hissing sound coming off my DPFE sensor and EVR solenoid everytime I shut the truck off. But from my understanding I think its a normal sound for these fords, but not sure.
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Sunday, February 3rd, 2019 AT 12:31 PM (Merged)
Tiny
MERLIN2021
  • MECHANIC
  • 17,250 POSTS
If it's an oil soaked K&N, it's probably the MAF, Cleaning Ford MAF's usually doesnt work! Or GM's for that matter. I never noticed a hissing sound in any of my Ford or Lincolns. If belt slips chang belt AND Tensioner. If you have a scan tool that reads long and short fuel trim, read and post what they are please.
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Sunday, February 3rd, 2019 AT 12:31 PM (Merged)
Tiny
ROBERTMOORE934
  • MEMBER
  • 10 POSTS
  • 1996 FORD F-150
  • 4.9L
  • 6 CYL
  • RWD
  • MANUAL
  • 194,000 MILES
Hello, I had recently noticed that an egr valve code had appeared on my obdII system. I bought the EGR valve, and was wondering on how to replace it on this particular motor. Does it have a gasket as well?

It has the 300 Inline 6 motor.
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
-1
Sunday, February 3rd, 2019 AT 12:31 PM (Merged)
Tiny
HMAC300
  • MECHANIC
  • 48,606 POSTS
Yes it has a gasket it's pretty much a bolt in unhook electrical and maybe exhaust then reattaching
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Sunday, February 3rd, 2019 AT 12:31 PM (Merged)

Please login or register to post a reply.

Sponsored links