ECT sensor wiring goes to which PCM pins?

RZNLVS562

MEMBER
2015 FORD FOCUS
2.0L
4 CYL
AUTOMATIC
130,000 MILES

Using a power probe my friend injected 12 v into one of the wires on the connector for the ECT sensor by accident and were trying to locate on which pins on the PCM do we check to see if there's something we can do to fix it. Does anyone have a wiring diagram for the car listed above? Also, before that happened, he mentioned that he was driving one day and hit a small pothole and noticed the car acting weird and making an odd noise. So, when he stopped, he opened the hood and noticed a gust of air coming from the top of the radiator area, but no coolant was leaking. Then the radiator fan stopped running and hasn’t turned on since. The car doesn’t overheat and stops halfway on the temperature gauge, but the radiator fan won’t turn on. Not even if the A/C is on. The A/C still works but he won’t turn it on because he’s scared the car might overheat. He looked under the car and noticed his horn was dangling in midair and half of it was missing so he removed it.

3 Replies

KEN L

MASTER CERTIFIED MECHANIC
42,960 POSTS

With the car off, try to spin the cooling fan by hand to see if something is stopping it from turning. Here is a guide to help you with the testing and the engine and coolant temperature sensor wiring diagrams. They don't list the coolant sensor separate.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-wiring

Check out the images (below). Please let us know how it goes

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Thursday, August 3rd, 2023 AT 1:36 PM

RZNLVS562

MEMBER
2 POSTS

I supplied voltage to the fan directly, so it works and also with an ohm meter checked continuity between etc sensor connector and the pins on the ECM connector and there was no break in the wires. I also checked to see if there was ground to the pins 1, 2 and 4 and everything was good. So, I’m left to assume that the ECM is shorted out internally to where it’s stuck open which is why it shows -60c whether the connector on the etc sensor is plugged in or not. Because if there was voltage coming out of the PCM I would at least get 5v on one of the wires for the for the ECT sensor connector wires, but I don’t.

I think it’s safe to say the ECM is not coming back from this unless I open it and replace the chip that needs replaced myself. It’s probably best to just replace the ECM with a cloned one online. I found a site that if you send your ECM and a replacement ECM of the same exact kind they clone it completely so there’s no need to worry about key needing to be programmed when you get it back.

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Friday, August 4th, 2023 AT 10:04 PM

KEN L