Driver's side power window wont go up or down?

There's a couple of things you didn't mention. The first is checking for a good ground. The best way to do that is to press a switch for that window, then measure the voltages on the two wires at the motor. If you find 12 volts on both of them at the same time, the ground circuit is open. You'll also find 12 volts on both wires regardless if you press the "up" or "down" switch.

Next, are you using a digital voltmeter or an old-fashioned test light with an incandescent bulb inside? For this type of problem, the test light can be more accurate. If you're using a voltmeter, to be valid, the readings must be taken with everything plugged in. That means back-probing alongside the wires where they go into the plugs. A common cause of this is broken wires between the door hinges, and arced contacts on the switch. All it takes is a tiny spot of carbon where the wire arced apart for the voltmeter to falsely "see" 12 volts, but you won't get enough current to flow to run the window motor. With the motor or switch unplugged, no current tries to flow, so the voltmeter can give you a false reading. Test lights require current flow to operate. They will correctly show 0 volts when there's a break in the circuit.

Some vehicles have their power window switches in the center console. For those, each side is an independent circuit. If your switches are on the driver's door, both the 12-volt supply and the ground circuit for the passenger windows flow through the driver's master switch assembly. That means if the passenger window works, the wires between the hinges should be okay.

There's one exception that I pointed out in this diagram with the two blue arrows. If the pink wire is broken between those two points, the driver's window will be dead but the passenger window will still work. This is an aftermarket diagram. I'm trying to find the location of that splice on GM's original diagram, but it is very hard to follow.

Here's a partial diagram from GM. What's noteworthy is the four-terminal plug at the top. The right side shows four wires, (red arrow), but there's five on the left side. That implies there's two pink wires in one cavity, meaning that's where they made the splice. That connector is a perfect place to find a bad connection. Don't unplug it yet. Do a visual inspection on the outside for signs of corrosion. If you don't see that, back-probe alongside the wires to measure the voltage on the side with two pink wires together. You should find 12 volts. If you do, measure on the pink wire on the other side of that connector. If you find 0 volts there, the terminals aren't making a good connection inside that connector.

Neither diagram shows the location of that connector, only that it's between the switch assembly and the fuse box. My suspicion is it is under the dash, near the left "A" pillar, possibly behind the left kick panel by the driver's left knee. It is only used on the assembly line to install different parts at different times. If terminals are corroded or damaged in that connector, the wires can be cut off and spliced together. You'll need to strip the insulation back far enough to find shiny copper wire. If it's a dull or dark brown, solder won't adhere to that.

I'm not familiar with "captain's" and "drinker's". As for the rocker switch, that is not a valid test for anything. Those are totally different from a power window switch. The power window switch actually has four sets of contacts. To test the circuit for continuity, unplug the two-wire connector from the motor, then measure the resistance from each one to ground. You should find very low, (almost 0 ohms), resistance on each wire when the window switch is released. At the same time you will find 0.0 volts on each wire, again, measuring to ground.

Next, measure the voltage on those two motor wires when you press the switch. When pressing it "up", 12 volts should appear on just one of those wires. When you press the switch "down", 12 volts should appear on just the other wire.

I'm happy you're using a test light for this. Exact voltage readings aren't important. We need to know if the test light is bright, dim, or off.

Assuming 12 volts shows up on the motor wires, plug that connector back into the motor, then check on those two wires again. Press "up", then you should find 12 volts on just one of those wires by back-probing through the back of the plug. Check on both wires. If you find 12 volts on both of them at the same time, there is a break in the ground circuit that we have to narrow down. If you find 0 volts on both of them, there's a break in the 12-volt circuit.

Getting back to the rocker switch, a double-throw switch has a common contact that makes a connection to one "switched" contact or the other one, depending on which way it is flipped. If you have a double-pole switch, it has two independent switches built in together and they both switch at the same time. A power window or a power lock switch is completely different. There's still two independent switches built in, but they don't switch together. Both make a connection for one motor wire to be switched to ground. When you press the switch "up", one switch remains connected to ground. The other one breaks its ground circuit, then switches to the 12-volt supply. That puts the 12 volts on one motor wire while the other motor wire is still grounded.

When you press "down", the roles are reversed. 12 volts is switched onto the other wire and the one that had 12 volts is now grounded. By switching polarity, the motor runs in a different direction.

There's one more thing that can be very elusive to identify. That is, ... Most window motors have a built-in thermal, auto-resetting circuit breaker. Those cause more trouble than they prevent. If you find you have a nice, bright test light on just one motor wire when the switch is pressed, and a good ground on the other wire, yet the motor doesn't run, that circuit breaker might be tripping. That actually can make the motor appear to run fine when hooked to a battery or battery charger, but not when plugged into the van's harness. Those circuit breakers are well-known to develop arced or pitted contacts that add a little resistance to the circuit. Current flowing through that resistance causes a small drop in voltage, but more importantly, heat. That heat migrates into the bimetallic strip and makes it much easier than normal for that circuit breaker to trip.

The second part of that story has to do with one fundamental fact about electric motors. That is, anything that slows them down causes them to draw higher current. That's why a stalled motor can blow a fuse, but it won't blow that fuse when running normally. When the motor is trying to move the window, the extra drag causes the motor to slow down. There's always some resistance in the van's wiring, connector terminals, and switch contacts. That little resistance slows the motor down too. In response, the motor draws higher and higher current, often to the point a weak circuit breaker will trip. It can take a couple of minutes for it to cool down and reset, then the motor will run again.

When you connect a motor with a weak circuit breaker directly to a battery, you eliminate the van's circuit resistance. The motor "sees" a higher voltage, runs faster, and draws LESS current, so it may run fine on the battery but not when installed in the door. I know drawing higher current is counter-intuitive to running slower. If it comes to that, I can explain the theory behind it at another time.

This circuit breaker problem is also common on rear vent window motors on minivans. We will only pursue this if all the voltage tests are okay. For now, tell me the results of the resistance and voltage tests, but please be specific when you tell me what you did. For example, "I tested the switch, and it's working" leaves me scratching my head. I don't know how you did that, what results you found or how you interpreted them. I wish I could be looking over your shoulder. Instead, to prevent my confusion, give me the voltage readings, then hopefully we'll figure out where the thought train got derailed.

Oh, to double-check, we are working on the driver's window, correct? If this is the passenger's window, there's a whole lot more to add to the circuitry, and more places to look for problems.