2002 Dodge Neon stupid Neon

Tiny
TANYASHANKLES
  • MEMBER
  • 2002 DODGE NEON
  • 4 CYL
  • FWD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 87,000 MILES
Hi I posted a few days ago about a problem Im having with my 02 neon. I am posting again to update the situation and hopefully get some feedback from the pro's. Ok. Here we go.
1) When starting the car, it turns over and on just fine. It is rough idling, but not erratic. Just kinda feels 'bumpy'.
2)Been this way for about 1-2 months, NO engine light and NO engine trouble codes.
3) At normal highway speeds, (65) it seems smooth, but if I come up behind a slow-poke and drop to 40 or 50, it is rough again trying to get it back up to 65.
4)At stoplights, the roughness gets worse. It vibrates so much so that I hear "du-du-du-du-du" like a thumping noise and if I release the brake it stops doing it, but as soon as I apply the brake it starts again. In neutral it doesnt do that.
5) as I said in the other post, I have changed the motor mounts, both upper and lower, plugs (done by a shade tree mechanic, but were checked by my hubby and he said they looked fine. Could plugs cause this problem?) Air filter, idle air control valve, and plug wires. Again, NO CEL. And it has been going on for 2 months now, it seems like if it were a problem that would engage the CEL it would have been on by now. Am I right? Thank you so much!
Saturday, December 5th, 2009 AT 9:52 PM

3 Replies

Tiny
MATHIASO
  • MECHANIC
  • 1,209 POSTS
It seem like lockup fails to release because the engine shudder and die when coming to a stop (when brakes applies) Causes here include a faulty lockup solenoid, a sticking lockup valve, grounded lockup solenoid wiring or a missing lockup solenoid spacer plate screen or the torque converter itself.
Have your mechanic diagnose those.
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Sunday, December 6th, 2009 AT 12:09 AM
Tiny
TANYASHANKLES
  • MEMBER
  • 6 POSTS
It dont stall at all, knock on wood, it is just rough and annoying, and worrysome. I am worried that it is going to get worse or break down. I dont know where to begin, and putting it in the shop is not an option right now because of the cost. Christmas is this month and weve got 2 kids to worry about. So I am trying desperately to find the problem and most of this is foreign language to me. Apparently when you change a motor mount there is a certain spec to tighten it to? Is this true?
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Sunday, December 6th, 2009 AT 1:26 AM
Tiny
MATHIASO
  • MECHANIC
  • 1,209 POSTS
Yes Madam, there is certain specification to tightened the motor mount.


https://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/46384_0900c1528022303b_1.jpg



Torque the upper mount-to-transaxle bolts to 50 ft. lbs. (68 Nm).
Install transaxle and tighten the transaxle-to-engine bolts, using an assistant to support the transaxle. Torque the transaxle-to-engine bolts to 70 ft. lbs. (95 Nm).
Raise the engine/transaxle assembly until the upper mount aligns with the mount bracket hole. Torque the upper mount-to-mount bracket through-bolt to 80 ft. lbs. (108 Nm).
Remove the jack and wooden block.
the lower mount to 80 ft.Ibs
Check Torque converter-to-drive plate bolts and torque the bolts to 65 ft. lbs. (88 Nm)
If one or some of those bolts get lose, vibration will occur.
How is the transmission fluid level?


https://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/46384_0900c1528022303a_2.jpg


Check torque converter bolt to flywheel.

Get back after you check those.
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Sunday, December 6th, 2009 AT 9:19 AM

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