2006 Dodge Magnum

Tiny
NNYCHAMP123
  • MEMBER
  • 2006 DODGE MAGNUM
  • 6 CYL
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 32,000 MILES
I HAVE A 2006 DODGE MAGNUM AND AFTER THE CAR WARMS UP IT STRATS MAKING A RINGING SOUND WHILE I ACCELERATE AND IT WILL DO IT ALSO IF I ACCELERATE WHILE IM IN PARK. I TOOK THE BELT OFF AND PRESSED THE ACCELERATOR AND THE NOISE IS STILL THERE. IM WONDERING WHAT THAT NOISE IS
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Monday, January 19th, 2009 AT 9:28 PM

51 Replies

Tiny
IMPALASS
  • EXPERT
Hello -

To better assist you please tell me if your Magnum is a RT, SE, SRT-8 or SXT model.
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Monday, January 19th, 2009 AT 9:55 PM
Tiny
NNYCHAMP123
  • MEMBER
It is the se 2.7 model
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Tuesday, January 20th, 2009 AT 4:31 AM
Tiny
IMPALASS
  • EXPERT
Hello -

There seems to be a TSB on the problem you are describing. Does this help you out?

RINGING SOUND COMING FROM PROPELLER SHAFT WHEN TRANSMISSION IS SHIFTED FROM DRIVE TO REVERSE OR REVERSE TO DRIVE
TECHNICAL SERVICE BULLETIN
Reference Number(s): 03-004-07, Date of Issue: December 19, 2007
CHRYSLER: : 2007 (KA) Nitro; 2007 (L2) 300C (China); 2006 - 2007 (LE) 300/300 Touring (International Markets); 2005 - 2007 (LX) 300/Magnum/Charger; 2005 - 2007 (WH) Grand Cherokee (International Markets); 2005 - 2007 (WK) Grand Cherokee; 2006 - 2007 (XH) Commander (International Markets); 2006 - 2007 (XK) Commander
GROUP: : Differential & Driveline
Related Ref Number(s): 03-004-07
ARTICLE BEGINNING
SUBJECT
Ringing Sound Coming From Propeller Shaft When Transmission Is Shifted From Drive To Reverse Or Reverse To Drive
OVERVIEW
This bulletin involves replacing transmission output flange on certain vehicles and applying "Stud N Bearing Mount Adhesive" to the transmission output shaft flange splines.
NOTE: This bulletin only applies to RWD vehicles equipped with NAG1 transmission (sales code DGJ).
SYMPTOM/CONDITION
A ringing, snapping or popping sound may be heard coming from the drive line when the transmission is shifted from forward to reverse or reverse to forward. The sound may also occur when the brakes are released after shifting into or out of Drive or Reverse.
DIAGNOSIS
Start the vehicle, apply the park brake and shift the transmission from forward to reverse and back with the brakes applied. If the sound is present, perform the Repair Procedure.
PARTS REQUIRED
PARTS INFORMATION
Qty. Part No. Description
1 04318032 Stud N' Bearing Mount Adhesive.
1 52108234AA Nut-Collar Double Hex
1(AR) 05175566AA Output Flange (3.5L)
1(AR) 52108628AB Output Flange (3.7L)
1(AR) 05135158A Output Flange (5.7L)
1(AR) 05170003AB Output Flange (6.1L)
SPECIAL TOOLS/EQUIPMENT REQUIRED
SPECIAL TOOLS/EQUIPMENT INFORMATION
C-3281 Flange Holder
8992 Flange Puller
9078 Staking Tool
C-4171 Drive Handle
REPAIR PROCEDURE
CAUTION: Mark the propeller shaft in relation to the transmission and axle flanges prior to removal.
1. Remove propeller shaft: refer to the detailed removal procedures available in DealerCONNECT > TechCONNECT under: Service Info > 3 - DIFFERENTIAL & DRIVELINE > PROPELLER SHAFT > REMOVAL
2. Using Special tools C-3281 and 8992, remove the transmission output shaft nut and remove the flange (Fig. 1).
Fig. 1: Identifying Flange Puller
Courtesy of CHRYSLER
3. Is your vehicle one of the following vehicle/engine configurations?
A. Yes: Proceed to Step #4.
B. No: Proceed to Step #5
o 2005 LX 5.7L built prior to August 18, 2004?
O 2005 LX 6.1L or WK 3.7L built prior to June 22, 2005?
O 2006 LX 3.5L built prior to June 22, 2005?
4. Replace output flange with corresponding part number in Parts Table above.
5. Clean the splines on the output shaft and the output flange and apply a thin coating of MOPAR Stud N' Bearing Mount Adhesive, p/n 04318031 or equivalent, to the splines of the output flange.
6. Install the flange and tighten the nut to 200 Nm (150 ft. Lbs.).
7. Stake the nut using 9078 staking tool and C-4171 drive handle.
8. Install propeller shaft: refer to the detailed installation procedures available in DealerCONNECT > TechCONNECT under: Service Info > 3 - DIFFERENTIAL & DRIVELINE > PROPELLER SHAFT > INSTALLATION.
POLICY
Reimbursable within the provisions of the warranty.
TIME ALLOWANCE
TIME ALLOWANCE
Labor Operation No: Description Amount
21-15-02-90 Replace Transmission Flange On Certain Vehicles And Apply Adhesive To Transmission Flange LX/LE/L2 1.3 Hrs.
KA/WK/WH/XK/XH 0.6 Hrs.
FAILURE CODE
FAILURE CODE
68 Noisy
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Tuesday, January 20th, 2009 AT 7:24 PM
Tiny
IMPALASS
  • EXPERT
Hello -

Also one other thing. It looks like you may have some recalls on your vehicle. The dealer may fix these for free. Please contact the dealer service department, give them the VIN number of your car and have them check on these to see if they apply to you.


http://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/248015_recall1_1.jpg

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Tuesday, January 20th, 2009 AT 7:38 PM
Tiny
NYKING12
  • MEMBER
Yeah but I dont hear it when I shift from park to reverse or park to drive I just herar it when I am accelerating after the car warms up a little. So I dont know if this is the same problem as the tsb I know that I hab my tranny overhauled a cuple of weeks ago but they thought that the overhaul would have cured the nois but I did not
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Tuesday, January 20th, 2009 AT 7:57 PM
Tiny
NYKING12
  • MEMBER
Also I cannot hear the noise unless I hit the gas pedal.
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Tuesday, January 20th, 2009 AT 7:59 PM
Tiny
IMPALASS
  • EXPERT
Hello -

When you had the trans overhauled - were they aware of the TSB and did they repair what it says?
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Tuesday, January 20th, 2009 AT 11:38 PM
Tiny
NNYCHAMP123
  • MEMBER
On the tsb you gave me it dosent have the 2.7 engine on the tsb
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Wednesday, January 21st, 2009 AT 6:14 AM
Tiny
IMPALASS
  • EXPERT
Hello -

I am sorry for the inconvenience.I have had something urgent come up and will not be able to advise at this time. No worries though.I just sent your post to two other outstanding moderators that will be in contact with you in no time.

So please stand by and again. Sorry for the inconvenience.
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Wednesday, January 21st, 2009 AT 10:17 PM
Tiny
JAMES W.
  • MEMBER
Hello, I, and another moderator, are going to try to fill impalaSS's shoes while he's out of town. I've read your post, and bear with me while I ask a couple questions.
Do you have any aftermarket equipment on the car ie; exhaust or intake modifications? Has the car always made this noise, or is it something that all of a sudden developed? Please advise, and we'll try to figure something out.
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Wednesday, January 21st, 2009 AT 10:56 PM
Tiny
NYKING12
  • MEMBER
No the noise has been there for the last 2 months but before that it was not there and there has been no mods to it everything is stock the dealer tried replaing numerous parts like the intake manifold and pullys but the noise still is heard if you pull the belt off and press the gas pedal
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Thursday, January 22nd, 2009 AT 1:19 AM
Tiny
NYKING12
  • MEMBER
Also the noise only starts when my temp gauge is on the line before the center line
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Thursday, January 22nd, 2009 AT 12:26 PM
Tiny
JACK42
  • MEMBER
Is it a ringing like something is making contact or is it more like a harmonic
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Thursday, January 22nd, 2009 AT 1:46 PM
Tiny
NYKING12
  • MEMBER
Ita a hard noise to describe but what throws me off is that once the car warms up and the temp gauge reaches about halfway the noise starts and then if I drive it aroungd for 15 minutes the noise will go away.
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Thursday, January 22nd, 2009 AT 5:29 PM
Tiny
NYKING12
  • MEMBER
Also since ive had this noise fo 2 months I thought something would have broken by now.
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Thursday, January 22nd, 2009 AT 5:37 PM
Tiny
KEVIN12881
  • MEMBER
An overlapping metalic noise that increases in intensity as the engine speed increases, yet dimminishes as engine reaches temp ussually indicates abnormal piston and cylinder wear. To find the problem cylinder, remove spark plugs one at a time until noice stops. I could be wrong, trust the pros not me
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Thursday, January 22nd, 2009 AT 5:40 PM
Tiny
NYKING12
  • MEMBER
Yes but the noise does not start until the engine is warmed up and it should have thrown a code if it was a cyclinder.
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Thursday, January 22nd, 2009 AT 5:59 PM
Tiny
NYKING12
  • MEMBER
And plus the noise only occurs during acceleration there is no noise if its just ideling with the foot of the pedal.
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Thursday, January 22nd, 2009 AT 6:00 PM
Tiny
KEVIN12881
  • MEMBER
Ok. (30k was young for my diagnostic) do you think it could be the water pump? They are known to make noise, but I am unsure of the noise patterns and actual sound
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Thursday, January 22nd, 2009 AT 6:18 PM
Tiny
KEVIN12881
  • MEMBER
I know you took the belt off and the sound was still there, but do not know if your water pump is powered by the belt.
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Thursday, January 22nd, 2009 AT 6:22 PM

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