Heater not working?

Tiny
PJPOOL
  • MEMBER
  • DODGE DAKOTA
I have a 1996 Dodge Dakota v6, 117000 miles and I freeze in the winter. It barely warms up enough to defrost the windshield. I have to dress in layers just to get to work. I have changed the thermostat and that has not helped. Do you have any other suggestions?
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Sunday, November 4th, 2007 AT 1:58 PM

39 Replies

Tiny
BLACKOP555
  • EXPERT
First thing I would like you to check is iafter runing it for a while feel the heater core hoses that go into the fire wall in and out, and if they are both hot then check the blend door inside the vehicle. If one or non is hot then you may have to bleed the coolant system. If that does not remedy flush out the heater core and make sure it is not pluged and then bleed it again.
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Sunday, November 4th, 2007 AT 7:29 PM
Tiny
SLOEHNING
  • MEMBER
How do you find the blend door?
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Thursday, November 8th, 2007 AT 6:03 AM
Tiny
STONES
  • MEMBER
Correct me if im wrong but I believe its behind the dash or under im not to familiar with Dakotas but somewhere around there and it also sounds more like a stuck thermostat I would check/replace that had the same problem on my ford it would warm slightly but not enough to matter
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Thursday, November 8th, 2007 AT 7:26 AM
Tiny
BLACKOP555
  • EXPERT
;he just replaced the thermostat so I do not belive that is the problem, he may have to bleed it.

And the blend door is behind the dash right near the heater core.
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Thursday, November 8th, 2007 AT 6:48 PM
Tiny
STONES
  • MEMBER
Ok I just overlooked that sry but ya it would probably be the blend door or mabey like on my camaro a bad/clogged core
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Friday, November 9th, 2007 AT 10:01 AM
Tiny
BLACKOP555
  • EXPERT
Hopefully its just a simple bleed job.
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Friday, November 9th, 2007 AT 7:50 PM
Tiny
SLOEHNING
  • MEMBER
I just fixed my heater problem this weekend.

History: 1998 Dakota, 155000 miles. About two years ago I had very luke warm air coming into the cab no matter what the temp guage read. I replaced the stat and checked to see if I had flow thru the core. I did have flow, but still no heat.

This weekend: First flushed system with Prestone flush. That did not help. At all times, the coolant appeared clear and bright. Next - bought a Prestone Back flush kit and followed the directions. That didn't help.

I then replaced the thermostat. Still no change.

Then I removed the heater hose at the water pump(hose 1), disconnected the heater hose from the top of the engine to the fire wall (hose 2) at the splice, shoved in a water hose nozzle and sprayed.
Nothing came out but clear water. I then put the hose nozzle in the end of hose 1 and repeated, out came a bunch of grey sludge and water. I thought I was finally getting somewhere.

I kept going back and forth from hose 1 to hose 2 until no more cloudy water came out of the heater core, put it back together, tested it and still no change.

I was about to give up when I went back to the splice on hose 2, disconnected it, put the hose nozzle in the end going toward the top of the engine, removed the radiator cap and let it rip.

I put it back together, filled the system and worked all the air out and HOLY COW I have heat. 125 degrees coming out of the defrost.

I mentioned everything I did because I'm not sure if it was one thing or a combination of all events, but I think it was clogged at theheater hose at the top of the engine where it joins near the stat housing.

Hope this helps.

Sloehning
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Monday, November 12th, 2007 AT 7:39 AM
Tiny
NFPKIDS
  • MEMBER
  • 1996 DODGE DAKOTA
  • 179 MILES
How do I flush my heater core and about how much fluid dose the core hold its Self its going to snow tomorrow im really sick of freezing my ass off I have changed the thermostat and my cap still no change still warm when fan speed is on 2 but if I put he fan on blast its cold air
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Tuesday, December 1st, 2020 AT 10:13 AM (Merged)
Tiny
ROY B
  • EXPERT
Use a garden hose and flush back and forth several times to rid the core of debris. it may be too clogged to flush and need to be replaced. This guide can tell us for sure what's going on.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/car-heater-not-working

Please run down this guide and report back.

Roy
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Tuesday, December 1st, 2020 AT 10:13 AM (Merged)
Tiny
NFPKIDS
  • MEMBER
Where do I go in with the hose the radiator or hoses top nd bottom. Or the hoses That go in to the fire wall
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Tuesday, December 1st, 2020 AT 10:13 AM (Merged)
Tiny
ROY B
  • EXPERT
Hoses that go to the firewall

roy
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Tuesday, December 1st, 2020 AT 10:13 AM (Merged)
Tiny
NFPKIDS
  • MEMBER
Alright thank you ill give it. Try tomorrow in the snow
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Tuesday, December 1st, 2020 AT 10:13 AM (Merged)
Tiny
NFPKIDS
  • MEMBER
I flushed the core till it was clear but I still have no pressure in my radiator its self
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Tuesday, December 1st, 2020 AT 10:13 AM (Merged)
Tiny
TOM DE
  • MEMBER
  • 1996 DODGE DAKOTA
  • 6 CYL
  • 2WD
  • MANUAL
  • 91,000 MILES
My 96 dakota heater only blows luke warm air. The a/c works fine. Is there a valve or thermostat that could be bad? Maybe the controls? I don't know where to start and my wife says she needs betterheat for the winter.
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Tuesday, December 1st, 2020 AT 10:13 AM (Merged)
Tiny
CH112063
  • MEMBER
The luke warm heat may be thermostat relasted. Be sure it is not low on coolant.
You can feel its heat by touching both heater hoses just before they enter the interior. Those trucks always come in with a Chrysler code 17, thermostat. OK
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Tuesday, December 1st, 2020 AT 10:14 AM (Merged)
Tiny
1994 DODGE DAKOTA
  • MEMBER
  • 1994 DODGE DAKOTA
The venting system is blowing cold air through the vent at the floor on the passengers side. Warm air is coming from everywhere else but there. Also, the fan speed only works on the highest setting of 4. When the dial is on the 1 2 or 3 the fans do not work. Are these related? What can I do?
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Tuesday, December 1st, 2020 AT 10:14 AM (Merged)
Tiny
JOE F
  • EXPERT
You have two problems. First, the fan issue requires that you replace the blower motor resister. It is under the hood, passanger side, on the firewall. It's aprox 3 inches down from the top of the firewall and has a large wiring connector pluged into it. Two screws hold it to the firewall. Just unplug it, unscrew it, and replace it. They are not too expensive. I'm thinking under 15 dollars. Please pay attention to the condition of the plug. I've seen them melted down and requre repair or replacement. If you have any trouble with this or additional questions, let me know. As far as the plug, if it is melted down, chances are the blower motor is drawing too many amps and overheating the system. You will know if the new resister goes bad in a short period of time.

Now for the heat problem, check under the dash for two things. First, make sure the HVAC ductwork is still all attached. If it is, check for vacuum hoses that may have come disconnected. The air flow vents are actuated by vacuum. There could be one off keeping a door in the wrong position.

Let me know what you find or if you have other questions.

Have a great Thanksgiving!

Joe
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Tuesday, December 1st, 2020 AT 10:14 AM (Merged)
Tiny
CLMIK
  • MEMBER
  • 1993 DODGE DAKOTA
  • 4 CYL
  • 4WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 141,000 MILES
Just bought a 1993 Dodge Dakota as my son's first car. Few things happened within hours and I'm stressing out about more cost. 1st issue. Speedometer and Odometer stopped working while I was driving down the interstate. Separate issue. Heater only blows cold air which is bad living in Washington State. Separate issue. Hot/Cold engine gauge not working. Separate issue. Noticed wire with square connector hanging under steering column down by floor not connected to anything. Separate issue. Steering has about 1/4 wheel play. Separate issue. Small rattle, barely audible, from passenger side under hood appears to originate toward the bottom of engine area. If necessary I can take it to be looked at, but want to know the right questions to ask, and at least look like I know what I'm talking about.
We already know the transfer case needs to be replaced, and we are doing that tomorrow. Could any of these issues be related, and will I spend a fortune fixing it?
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Tuesday, December 1st, 2020 AT 10:14 AM (Merged)
Tiny
RANDY B
  • EXPERT
I love these trucks. I think they're WAY better than a Ranger or Blazer.

Start by checking the fuses for the gauge problem. There could also be loose connector pins on the back of the instrument cluster. They can be soldered to make better connection. If the gauges start to work when you press on the cluster, suspect the loose pins.

The heater and temperature gauge are likely related to a defective thermostat. If it sticks open, coolant will flow too rapidly to the radiator and won't get hot enough. Feel the upper radiator hose and the two smaller heater hoses after driving for a while. They should all be too hot to hold onto for very long.

If the loose connector is blue and has six pins in it, that's for connecting a scanner to talk back and forth with some of the computers. There should be either a "feather fastener" to poke into a hole to hold it up or an access panel that the connector sits above.

For the steering play, have it inspected at a tire and alignment shop. You can also watch the movement of the steering linkage while a helper moves the steering wheel back and forth. When the steering wheel and shaft turn, all other linkages should move right away. You're looking for something that has one part moving and the part it's attached to doesn't move right away. The wheels and tires are supposed to turn as soon as the steering wheel is turned. One thing to be aware of when it's inspected is the unusual ball joints. Normally the vehicles is jacked up by the frame so the suspension can hang freely, then the tire is pried up and down to check for wear between the ball and socket of each ball joint. The upper ball joint on each side must have no sideways or vertical play between the ball and socket. That is normal for almost all ball joints on all cars and trucks. However, the lower ball joints CAN have vertical movement on Dakotas. That makes them appear to be severely worn out but even new ones come with about 3/16 inch of vertical movement. Aftermarket replacements generally do not have that movement, but it is acceptable for them to develop that movement, just as long as there is no sideways movement. The ball joints are what holds the wheel in position. They must have absolutely no sideways movement. If one does, it will be impossible for that wheel to stay in proper alignment.

Dakotas don't have very much suspension and steering system trouble, especially compared to GM and Ford products. If any of those parts are replaced, the front end will have to be aligned. That's a fairly easy job on these trucks. One thing you should check first is the ride height. Any alignment shop can show you a small book that shows where to measure and what that measurement should be. In your case, you're just checking to see if both sides are the same so the truck sits level. I like to measure from the ground to the top of the side marker lights on both sides. If you find one side lower than the other, typically the right side, there is an adjustment on each side just behind the seats for the torsion bar springs. Torsion bars are the only type of spring that can be adjusted instead of replaced. You'll have to crawl underneath and use a big breaker bar to adjust the bolt. Turning it clockwise raises that side of the truck. Some alignment shops charge extra for doing that. I never did at the dealership because it only took a few extra minutes.

Any rattles could be related to the sloppy steering. Be sure to mention that to the person doing the inspection.

What is the symptom that makes you think it needs a transfer case?

Caradiodoc
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Tuesday, December 1st, 2020 AT 10:14 AM (Merged)
Tiny
CLMIK
  • MEMBER
The person I purchased it from said that the chain in the transfer case was loose. He already has the transfer case, he just hadn't put it in yet before he ran into financial problems with his home and had to sell one of his trucks. Additionally, there is a "parts truck" available to us for a short time and I wonder if there is anything I should take off that truck for potential use later. Possible problem areas maybe, or even stuff that could help with my current issues?
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Tuesday, December 1st, 2020 AT 10:14 AM (Merged)

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