2001 Dodge Dakota timing chain

Tiny
2000CHEVYMAN
  • 2001 DODGE DAKOTA

Engine Mechanical problem
2001 Dodge Dakota 6 cyl Two Wheel Drive Manual

how do you align the timing marks for the timing chain if the cranshaft will not turn anymore before it starts the compression cycle? Or to make it easier how do you get the timing mark for the bottom key to line up at 12 o'clock so that the timing chain can be put on?

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Thursday, December 18th, 2008 AT 11:11 AM

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Tiny
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Hello -

To better assist you please tell me the model of your vehicle. Is it a just a Dakota 2WD, or Quad Cab, or RT? Also the engine size in liter and the 8th digit of your VIN.

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Thursday, December 18th, 2008 AT 5:31 PM
Tiny
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Sorry I did forget to mention that the dakota is a 2wd quad cab with the 3.9l V6, and the 8th digit of the vin is X. Also what is it that you are referring to when you are asking for the final fix, are you referring to my question about how to remove the egine fan nut?

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Thursday, December 18th, 2008 AT 11:26 PM
Tiny
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Hello -

Thanks for the info.........did you remove the chain tensioner or did you push the tensioner back and pin it?

If you did not then remove it and put it in a vice and gentle push it back and then pin it.....install it with the pin and then do the next items. If it were me.....I would replace the tensioner since I was in there.............preventive maintenance.

I would start from the beginning...............

To make it easier I would remove the plugs...this allows you to turn the crank more easy...............

Now, remove the distributor cap and rotate the crank around until it shows TDC on the alignment mark pic 1.


http://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/248015_1_118.jpg



Then ensure the distributor shows the rotor pointing to number on cylinder pic 2. The distributor rotor should now be aligned to the CYL. NO.1 alignment mark (stamped) into the camshaft position sensor. If not, rotate the crankshaft through another complete 360 degree turn. Note the position of the number one cylinder spark plug cable (on the cap) in relation to rotor. Rotor should now be aligned to this position.


http://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/248015_2_77.jpg



Now from this point on I am going to attach the directions for removal and installation of the timing chain. Review and skip the steps that you already did. If you notice though, you have to remove both crank and cam gear, put on the bench, put the chain on and then install. But first make sure your marks are lined up before removing anything.

For the last statement....." Please let us know......" that is for the final finish so us and the other readers will know what you did to fix your car.

REMOVAL

Disconnect battery negative cable.
Drain cooling system.
Remove timing chain cover.


http://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/248015_3_55.jpg



Rotate crankshaft to align timing marks (Fig. 84) to #1 TDC.
Remove camshaft sprocket attaching bolt and remove timing chain with crankshaft and camshaft sprockets.


http://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/248015_4_34.jpg



Slip crankshaft sprocket onto crankshaft and compress tensioner shoe by placing a large screwdriver between crankshaft sprocket and tensioner shoe (Fig. 83). Compress shoe until hole in shoe lines up with hole in bracket. Slide a suitable pin into the holes (Fig. 83) and remove screwdriver.
If tensioner assembly is to be replaced, remove the three tensioner to block bolts and remove tensioner assembly.

INSTALLATION

If tensioner assembly is being replaced, install tensioner and mounting bolts. Torque bolts to 24 Nm (210 in. lbs.) .
Place both camshaft sprocket and crankshaft sprocket on the bench with timing marks on an exact imaginary center line through both camshaft and crankshaft bores.
Place timing chain around both sprockets.
Lift sprockets and chain (keep sprockets tight against the chain in position as described).


http://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/248015_5_23.jpg



Slide both sprockets evenly over their respective shafts and verify alignment of timing marks (Fig. 86) with a straight-edge if necessary.
Install the camshaft bolt. Tighten the bolt to 68 Nm (50 ft. lbs.) torque.
Remove tensioner pin. Again, verify alignment of timing marks.
Install timing cover.
Fill cooling system.
Connect battery negative cable.
Start engine and check for oil and coolant leaks.

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Friday, December 19th, 2008 AT 1:37 PM
Tiny
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Hello -

I also wanted to let you know that it looks like you may have some recalls on your vehicle. The dealer may fix these for free. Please contact the dealer service department, give them the VIN number of your car and have them check on these to see if they apply to you.

NHTSA07V555000
12/04/2007
Recall 07V555000: A/T Shift Interlock Defect

C41
02/01/2004
Recall - GAWR/Tire Certification Label Replacement

NHTSA03V505000
12/01/2003
Recall 03V505000: GAWR Label Replacement

C35
10/01/2003
Recall - Dash/Headlamp Wiring Harness Routing

NHTSA03V389000
10/01/2003
Recall 03V389000: Wiring Harness Rerouting/Repair

NHTSA01V233000
07/05/2001
Recall 01V233000: Seat Belt Anchor Defect

NHTSA01V077000
03/07/2001
Recall 01V077000: Transfer Case Control Module Problem

NHTSA00V366000
11/06/2000
Recall 00V366000: Child Restraint Instructions Missing

957
11/01/2000
Recall - Child Restraint, Owner's Manual Update

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Saturday, December 20th, 2008 AT 11:02 PM
Tiny
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Hi,
all the information that was given was good. However, I still have one more question that I was hoping that yall could help me with. The camshaft of the truck does not stay in place once I get it to TDC, and I was curious as to why it is doing this. I have everything else taken off and everything removed that would normally caused this but all I can do is turn over the crankshaft until it lines up at TDC and then it turns back, I was curious as to how to try and fix this problems.
Thanks

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Monday, December 22nd, 2008 AT 10:16 AM
Tiny
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Hello -

No problem on the question. That is what we are here for. Will do my best to assist.

Okay, sorry, but I want to make sure I am thinking the same thing your are saying.

If I understand you correctly. You rotate the crankshaft to where everything is lined up. That is the distributor is on number one, the camshaft is at 6 O'clock and the crankshaft is at 12 O'clock.

Then you let off pressure with the wrench and it moves one direction just a little. Is this correct?

And when you say you have taken everything off that may cause this. Can you tell me what you have taken off?

Sorry, I just want to make sure you and I are saying the same thing.

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Monday, December 22nd, 2008 AT 2:41 PM
Tiny
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Ok what im meaning by taking everything off im simply meaning the sparkplugs, distributor cap, alternator, a/c, and power steering pump so that I could easily get to the timing cover. Now the problem is that when I try to turn the crankshaft I cannot get it to lineup at TDC and the distributor is facing 180degrees from the number 1 cylinder and the crankshaft will not turn over anymore unless pressure is put on, but after the pressure is let off it turns back to where it was before. I know that with the sparkplugs out it should turn over freely without any problems, but it is not doing so. I want to know what is causing this so that it can turn over freely. I have the crankshaft right now at about 11 o'clock and I just need that little bit extra because I only have to turn the wrench about 1/4 turn before the timing is at TDC

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Monday, December 22nd, 2008 AT 3:08 PM
Tiny
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Would it just be ok if I left the crankshaft where it is at and took the timing cover off? And then once I have the cover removed, remove the chain and rotate the camshaft so that the distributor points to cylinder number 1 or will that not work?

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Monday, December 22nd, 2008 AT 3:21 PM
Tiny
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Hello -

Okay based on what you say. If the distributor is 180 off. Then rotate the crankshaft until the distributor rotor is pointing to number one.

Then your timing mark (first pic) should be at TDC.

I always turn my crank looking at the distributor. Once it is in place then the TDC, then last, the marks on the two gears.

Try that and let me know.I am watching for your post reply so it won't take long.

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Monday, December 22nd, 2008 AT 7:34 PM
Tiny
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Hi,
all of the information that yall have given has helped a good bit, but the problem I am having now is that when the camshaft is lined up at 6 o'clock the distributor is still pointing 180 degrees from the cylinder number 1 position. How do I get it so that the distributor is pointing to cylinder number 1 so that the timing mark will be at 6 o'clock. Because even though the distributor is off the crankshaft will be lined up at 12 o'clock

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Tuesday, December 23rd, 2008 AT 10:04 AM
Tiny
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Hello -

Okay. If I understand you correctly. When you rotate the crankshaft and don't even look at the time mark on the crank. You are looking at the distributor only. So when you are looking at the distributor and turn the crankshaft until the distributor rotor is pointing to number 1. Then is the crankshaft on TDC? Another words. Don't look at anything (and you may be but want to make sure) anyway, don't look at anything other than the distributor. Put that on number one. Then where is the camshaft mark and the crankshaft mark?

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Tuesday, December 23rd, 2008 AT 10:22 AM
Tiny
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With the distributor at number one the camshaft is at 12 o'clock and the crankshaft is 5 o'clock and 6 o'clock. In other words it is at the complete opposite of what is should be at

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Tuesday, December 23rd, 2008 AT 10:32 AM
Tiny
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Hello -

Well, isn't that funny. Maybe not.

Since it was running prior. Let's keep things as they are with a little twist.

Main thing. Keep that distributor number one. That is our reference point.

Next. You remove the gears (cam and crank) to put the chain on and then slide the gears on.

Well, mark where the gears are now. Marker whatever. Mark the gear and the shaft.

Now pull the gears as you would (make sure the chain tensioner is back or if my earlier suggestion off to replace). Then when you put the gears on the work bench as the directions state, put them a 6 and 12. Put the chain on and see if they line up on the two shafts. Now they are there. What does that sound like to you.

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Tuesday, December 23rd, 2008 AT 10:54 AM
Tiny
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Ok i've done what you said but now every time I turn over the crankshaft with the new gears on to line up the timing marks the distributor is lining up to be in the exhaust stroke instead of the compression stroke. What is it that I can do to fix this problem?

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Tuesday, December 23rd, 2008 AT 11:47 AM
Tiny
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Hello -

Nothing should have to be moved.

If you put the distributor at number one. Then removed the gears. Laid them on the bench. Put the chain on then and slide the gears back on. There was no reason to move/turn the crankshaft.

What was the reason you moved it?

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Tuesday, December 23rd, 2008 AT 11:58 AM
Tiny
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I moved the gears to try and line up the timing marks because the whole reason I was replacing them is because the timing was off and the truck was running horribly so I was replacing the chain to fix the timing but I cannot line up the marks to fix the timing on the truck so that it will run correctly without the distributor going to the exhaust stroke. That is why I moved the crankshaft to try and line up the timing marks

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Tuesday, December 23rd, 2008 AT 12:04 PM
Tiny
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Hello - 2000chevyman

Just so you know I asked another moderator to review with me to make sure we get you back on the right spot here.

I was thinking earlier when I suggested putting the gears in a different position, I believe they only go on one way. Correct. Aren't they keyed to the cam and crank?

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Tuesday, December 23rd, 2008 AT 8:31 PM
Tiny
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Yea they are keyed, but does it really matter about that the marks for the timing aren't matched up as long as I have the camshaft lined up at cylinder number one on the distributor and the crankshaft at TDC, since that is what the whole purpose of the timing is anyways?

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Tuesday, December 23rd, 2008 AT 11:23 PM
Tiny
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Hello -

Also, I worked on a Chevy about a year ago and the book was wrong on the timing marks.I actually contacted the manufacturer. The marks were cam at 12 and crank at 12.

This is why I wanted another moderator to take a look at this.

Have you disconnected any of it yet?

My thought once he reviews is treat it as a new rebuild.

Reviewing what you have said. The crank gear is smaller. So will turn more. Since you said the distributor is 180 off, if you rotate the crank should I think make two turns to the cams one circle which doesn't that line it up? Or is that when you say now it is on the exhaust stroke?

So you have the valve covers off and can see the that the exhaust valve is pressed?

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Tuesday, December 23rd, 2008 AT 11:37 PM
Tiny
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I do not have the valve covers off but I do know that it was in the exhaust stroke because it was 180 degrees from the the cylinder number one position which is the compression stroke. But it is only at the 180 degrees position from the cylinder number one position when the timing marks were lining up, but the distributor was no longer at cylinder number one

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Wednesday, December 24th, 2008 AT 12:14 AM

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