Engine Performance problem
1993 Dodge Dakota V8 Two Wheel Drive Automatic 160k miles
My 1993 Dodge Dakota, 5.2L-V8, Auto Trans, has had 2 head gasket replacement jobs, with the drivability problems starting after 1st head gasket job.
Driving at 65MPH on interstate, engine backfires, then sags, dies. Pull to side of road, after sitting for a few minutes, I can get it started but it will not rev up without bucking, backfiring.
No trouble codes stored in PCM.
I have since replaced: PCM, O2 sensor, Crankshaft sensor, Cam sensor, Coolant temp sensor, intake manifold temp sensor, distributor cap, rotor, plugs, plug wires, Cat. Convertor, muffler. ( Catalytic conv. Had blown all interior components/catalyst into muffler, causing the muffler to clog, raising back-pressure.
Typically, the engine will start fine when cold, upon driving as engine warms up, roughness begins and e=increases to the point that it stalls and backfires, if accelerator is pressed passed certain point, engine sags dramatically, to the point of dieing, back off, it will run again but has no power.
I have gone to each connector, cleaned and checked for snugness, applying dielectric grease to connector upon reinstallation.
The latest is test of distributor gear lash after suggestion from Dodge tech. Pulled distributor, no gear on shaft, still in engine with oil pump shaft attached. I've tried to pull gear out, bit stops after pulling up approx 5 inches with a solid sound of metal stopping it from proceeding. The gear when in contact with camshaft drive gear has approx 1/8 - 3/16 movement. The shaft has no side play however, bushing seems to be in good shape.
An older 318 (5.2L) engine from '66 had distributor gear attached to distributor shaft, this was a surprise when I removed distributor and no gear attached.
I'd appreciate any suggestions on proceeding from here to remove distributor drive hear as well as diagnosing the drivability issue. This problem has been onging since Set. 2008. I am disabled and trying to do this on as little money as possible due to limited income however, I have spent over $1900.00 now on parts. I am not one to throw parts at a problem however after having a repair done at a Tunex franchise, $430.00 later after replacing the cam sensor it ran for about 20 miles before reverting back to the same problem. The Tunex wanted to do a $225.00 engine flush which I refused, as cleaning out the fuel system was easily done myself and the fuel injectors had been recently R&R'd when doing the head gasket job.
Thanks for the help!
have the same problem?
Friday, January 16th, 2009 AT 9:41 AM