Torque for the pan bolts is common sense. They're going into aluminum, so one fist on a 1/4" drive ratchet is sufficient. A 1/4" drive air ratchet is strong enough to strip the holes out. Spec is around 10 inch pounds, as I recall.
You can't get the fluid out of the torque converter without using a flush machine.
Don't use a gasket on the pan. Use Chrysler's gray RTV sealer. At the lowest side (rear) of the pan flange, fluid will be dripping for days if you wait that long. The black RTV sealer stays more rubbery, but it will not seal if there is any fluid residue what-so-ever. The gray will seal through the residue, but it will be a little harder to remove the pan next time. It still should be residue-free.
You will see where the fluid is dripping from in the center of the lowest side of the case. Reach up in there with your finger and splash the fluid around a little. That will give you about one minute to clean the flange with brake parts cleaner before the fluid builds up and starts to drip again.
Have the pan cleaned and a bead of RTV sealer on it and ready to slap on before the fluid starts leaking down again.
Wednesday, March 17th, 2010 AT 5:43 PM