It does sound like a switch. In the past, it was real easy to test the switch by unplugging the motor and measuring continuity to ground on both wires, but in your case, they added an "Express Down" module because I guess it's terribly inconvenient to actually hold a button until the window goes down!
I don't know what's in that module. As near as I can tell from a '97 service manual, you should be able to read continuity from the Light Green motor wire to ground, and there should be continuity from the White wire to ground if power is applied to the Tan with Dark Green wire, but that's a mistake according to the diagram. Power comes in on the Tan wire for the "down" circuit. It doesn't matter; both tan wires have 12 volts with the ignition switch turned on, it just comes through two different circuits.
To summarize, look for 12 volts on the two tan wires on the switch assembly. If one is missing, look for broken wires between the two left door hinges. If either wire is open, something else won't work. According to the description, one power wire feeds all the left-side windows and the other power wire feeds all the right-side windows. The diagram shows it differently for the vent windows, so I'm not sure which is correct, but the point is, if a power wire is open, SOMETHING else won't work.
We'll assume the ground wire is ok because if it was open, none of the windows would work. Both motor wires should read low resistance to ground. The Light Green green wire should get 12 volts in the "Up" position. The White wire should get 12 volts in the "Down" position. If either are missing, I would suspect a defective module since the switches give very little trouble.
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Tuesday, April 28th, 2009 AT 1:57 PM