Which window isn't working? It's very rare for a Chrysler power window switch to fail, but following GM's lead, everything is computer-controlled now. The most likely cause is a problem in the Body computer. Broken wires between the door hinges is somewhat common, but the window will not work in either direction. Also, a problem with the passenger side window has a 50/50 chance of being caused by a defective driver's side switch. It doesn't matter which switch will not make the window move. Current always flows through two parts of each switch to make the passenger side window move.
What is the most common is the ridiculous cable and pulley system used to move the window. Expect a lot of frustration when trying to rewind the spring that unravels all over the floor when you take the motor apart. The motors don't give much trouble, but if you want to test them or the switches, you'll need to know how to use an ohm meter or test light. I suspect you'll find a broken pulley or frayed cable when you pull off the door panel.
April, 28, 2009 AT 6:30 AM
It is the lh. I replaced he motor and regulator, it worked once then I lost power going down. When I diret power the motor it works fine. With a test light I get power when press down but not up, there is power at switch but not out. Dos this sound like the switch?
April, 28, 2009 AT 1:57 PM
It does sound like a switch. In the past, it was real easy to test the switch by unplugging the motor and measuring continuity to ground on both wires, but in your case, they added an " Express Down" module because I guess it's terribly inconvenient to actually hold a button until the window goes down!
I don't know what's in that module. As near as I can tell from a '97 service manual, you should be able to read continuity from the Light Green motor wire to ground, and there should be continuity from the White wire to ground if power is applied to the Tan with Dark Green wire, but that's a mistake according to the diagram. Power comes in on the Tan wire for the " down" circuit. It doesn't matter; both tan wires have 12 volts with the ignition switch turned on, it just comes through two different circuits.
To summarize, look for 12 volts on the two tan wires on the switch assembly. If one is missing, look for broken wires between the two left door hinges. If either wire is open, something else won't work. According to the description, one power wire feeds all the left-side windows and the other power wire feeds all the right-side windows. The diagram shows it differently for the vent windows, so I'm not sure which is correct, but the point is, if a power wire is open, SOMETHING else won't work.
We'll assume the ground wire is ok because if it was open, none of the windows would work. Both motor wires should read low resistance to ground. The Light Green green wire should get 12 volts in the " Up" position. The White wire should get 12 volts in the " Down" position. If either are missing, I would suspect a defective module since the switches give very little trouble.