1994 Dodge Caravan

It's mostly Fords that need the engine raised to remove the oil pan. Yours might require removal of the front engine mount and starter, but that's about all.

Oil pan bolts are torqued to:

2.5L: 105 inch pounds
3.0 L: 50 inch pounds
3.3L: 105 inch pounds

If you don't have an inch pound torque wrench, use common sense; these are small bolts, and the 3.0L engine block is aluminum. The only gasket you'll find is in the aftermarket world. Chrysler and their techs use gasket sealer, no gaskets. I like the Mopar gray stuff myself because it will seal even if there is a film of oil on the pan or block surface. If you use the Mopar black RTV sealer, both surfaces MUST be dry and free of any oil residue or it won't seal in that spot and it will leak. The black stuff stays more rubbery and is easy to clean off next time. The gray gets harder and will need a wire wheel to clean it all off next time.

Caradiodoc

There's no particular torque sequence because this is just a stamped steel pan and is very flexible. Special tightening order is only necessary with rigid parts that must not be clamped unevenly to prevent warping, such as cylinder heads.

Most experienced professionals wouldn't even bother with the torque wrench on items such as this. Hand tightening with a 1/4" drive ratchet and one hand is plenty tight assuming you're using gasket sealer, not an aftermarket cork or fiber gasket.

Caradiodoc

There's so many numbers given depending on which bolts you remove and which engine you have. Use common sense. And, pay attention to how hard you have to tug on the wrench to get them loose.

Besides torquing the bolts, you must consider that rust in the threads will affect the clamping forces. In the name of speed, most mechanics run the bolts in with an impact wrench and don't worry about torque specs.

Caradiodoc