Where is the fuel filter located, directions and pictures needed?

The fuel filter is part of the fuel pump module and is replaced with the pump. To get to it you need to remove the back seat and remove the access plate. Then use an unlocking tool to remove the lock ring. Disconnect the connection and lines and remove the line and then the pump. Reverse the process to install the new pump. Before you do that, I would test the fuel pressure at the feed under the hood. The prime pressure should be around 90 PSI. If you have that then see how fast, it will pump fuel into a container. If it's clear and flowing good and meets pressure, then it's likely not the filter or pump. If you get no pressure or low flow the next place to look is the fuel pump driver module. For that you will need a scan tool that can activate the pump module.

Have had similar thoughts myself at times. You can get the pressure gauge as a loaner tool but not the scan tool. What I would suggest is to erase all the codes, then see what it does and see which code(s) return. A P0300 would be a common sign of low fuel pressure but it could also be a vacuum leak or ignition breakdown. Clear all the codes first (write down what they show and if it says, current, pending or history. Then see what comes back. Don't want to replace a fuel pump if the problem is something else.

If you want one that can handle most anything and still not break the bank you might look at the newer TopDon gear, they sell everything from simple code readers on up to full out pro gear. The basic code readers are handy to just toss in the car, say you are out in the middle of nowhere and the light comes on, you can pull the code and at least know if it's something to worry about. However, they don't let you scan all the modules so if you pulled a P0700 code you would just know it was a problem in the transmission system, where a better tool would tell you the real code. Then the next step up to their mid-range tools lets you scan all systems and do things like reset the oil light, release the parking brake, do battery changes and other things depending on the vehicle. Some of those will make you want to find the engineer who added it and give them a thrashing. IE do you really need to tell the car's computer that you changed the taillight bulb!!

https://www.topdon.us/collections/diagnostic-tools

Codes are basically Stored = Current codes it has. Pending = codes that have set one instance but have not turned on the light yet and Permanent = Codes that set and that will not clear until the issue is repaired.
The P0300 would fit due to the other misfire codes. It basically is redundant telling you that you have more than one cylinder misfiring.
The P0019 is a seatbelt code, the P0018 means that the brake lights were on while you had the engine running P0630 is a transmission code. None of these will cause the misfires you have but the P0630 could be caused by the misfires. Now that you know it is only one side misfiring it does narrow it down some. It does have two high pressure pumps as well as the in tank. The only filter is on the in-tank pump. With the single bank misfire codes, it could be that sides high pressure pump. Plus, your reading of the code points to a known problem that has a TSB on it. LTB00409NAS4 issued 25 OCT 2013
You can read it here
https://static.nhtsa.gov/odi/tsbs/2013/MC-10214023-9999.pdf
However, I'm thinking that it may not be the problem. Being a single bank misfire there are not many things that only apply to one bank of the engine. In this case the main single item is a ground point for all of the fuel injectors on that cylinder bank. A bad or missing ground would also show as misfires. Both sides share a power feed but not a ground. A simple way to test would be a cheap test light. Connect the light to battery positive and then pick the easiest injector connector to get to and unplug it, use the test light to touch the middle pin (black wire) in the connector. That is the ground pin. The light should light up strong. I suspect it may, but the ground still may be corroded. The ground would be at the left front of the engine, and it would have 4 wires all crimped into a single ring terminal. That style connection is very bad for corroding. I would look there first. Then if cleaning or replacing that ground point doesn't change anything, I would test the power side of the injectors as well, for that you connect the test light to battery ground and touch pin 3 (white wire). If it lights, then it should have power. If those are both good, then I would look at the TSB. Be warned that the parts are not low cost, and you will need a labor guide to do the repairs yourself as Rover tends to complicate many vehicles. For the guide you can get a DIY version of the service information from either Mitchell (eautorepair.net) or Alldata (alldata.com). They both offer monthly, yearly or multiyear plans for a single vehicle with Mitchell being FAR more affordable and they offer money back if you get in there and discover that the DIY side tosses around things like "Take the vehicle to a dealer" instead of listing a repair. I'm not sure if they do that but in some of the DIY "service" manuals out there it was a common thing to make it seem like the dealership had special powers.
About the only real thing they have are all the special tools and hopefully talented folks who know how to use them.

Good luck with it and please report back with what you find.

If you have the key on and don't have battery voltage on the white power feeds to the coils go check fuse 20.

Autel has a wide range of tools, from simple code readers on up to pre equipment. They work well. Borrow one first then you can get an idea of how they work on your vehicle and if you want more or less when it comes to features.