Dash lights on

Tiny
DANNY REYNA
  • MEMBER
  • 2007 INFINITI G35
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 175,000 MILES
I went to Walmart auto center to have a TPMS sensor changed and after it was changed my TPMS light stayed on and ABS, VDC, battery lights on and sometimes won’t go over 10 mph. Please help what could it be?
Sunday, January 6th, 2019 AT 7:24 PM

13 Replies

Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
  • 108,112 POSTS
Hi and thanks for using 2CarPros.

Wow! I have no idea what a TPMS had to do with this, but then again, I don't know what was done. Often times, a computer is used to via the data link connector to reprogram. Also, most of the things you mentioned could be related to a damaged wheel speed sensor AKA an ABS sensor which may have been damaged in some way when the wheel was removed to replace the sensor. However, the battery light has me confused.

What I suggest is to have the computer scanned to identify the trouble codes.

Most parts stores will scan it for free. If it is safe to drive, have that done. If you have or can get a scanner, here is a quick video showing how it's used. Once I get the trouble codes stored, I will have a better idea of what may be causing the problem.

https://youtu.be/YV3TRZwer8k

Do this and let me know what you find.

Joe
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Sunday, January 6th, 2019 AT 7:55 PM
Tiny
DANNY REYNA
  • MEMBER
  • 7 POSTS
Before I had it changed everything was fine.
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Sunday, January 6th, 2019 AT 8:11 PM
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
  • 108,112 POSTS
I honestly don't know what to say. The TPMS is in the tire (wheel), so it doesn't make sense. Unless something was damaged when they removed the wheel or lifted the vehicle.

You mentioned the battery light is on. Is the battery going dead?

Joe
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Sunday, January 6th, 2019 AT 9:23 PM
Tiny
DANNY REYNA
  • MEMBER
  • 7 POSTS
We just replaced the battery to a brand new one and it’s still on. Could it be possible that they entered a wrong year or something when setting up the TPMS?
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Sunday, January 6th, 2019 AT 9:24 PM
Tiny
DANNY REYNA
  • MEMBER
  • 7 POSTS
Like literally we had the oil changed and TPMS sensors changed and relearned and I swear literally leaving the Walmart parking lot it turned on all those lights on and wouldn’t go over 10 to 15 mph and no more than 1,400 rpm. We turned it off waited then it turned on and drove, but with all the light on sometimes turns off.
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Sunday, January 6th, 2019 AT 9:28 PM
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
  • 108,112 POSTS
Hi Danny:

It's hard to tell what they did. There are different ways of relearning the TPMS. I have a tool that I basically copy the old sensor and then transfer it to a new sensor. That is only one way. However, none of them are related to the issues you now have. I want you to do me a favor. Since the light is on, I suspect the alternator isn't recharging the battery. Do this simple test to confirm it for me.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-use-a-voltmeter

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-a-car-alternator

Let me know what you find.

Joe
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Sunday, January 6th, 2019 AT 9:32 PM
Tiny
DANNY REYNA
  • MEMBER
  • 7 POSTS
The old battery read about 11.2 dead. I had taken it to AutoZone and that’s what they said. But was late so they couldn’t try charging it. When we put the new battery in ran it a bit left it on and it turns on like if nothing was wrong but light on still.
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Sunday, January 6th, 2019 AT 9:36 PM
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
  • 108,112 POSTS
Hi:

I need you to have the computer scanned so I know if codes are present. Hopefully, I'll be able to determine a correlation between all of them. It sounds like one of the wheel sensors may have been damaged. That would turn everything on you mentioned except the battery light. That is what is confusing me. If the VDC light is on, that could be why the problem exist with not wanting to drive over 10 mph. Basically, the computer is limiting power to the wheels to prevent slipping.

Have the codes read and let me know what they are.

Take care,
Joe
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Monday, January 7th, 2019 AT 5:14 AM
Tiny
DANNY REYNA
  • MEMBER
  • 7 POSTS
The only code it throws is a fuel level circuit.
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Monday, January 7th, 2019 AT 8:24 AM
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
  • 108,112 POSTS
Wow! Have you contacted them to let them know what happened? Everything that is wrong doesn't tie together other than what I said. I would hope they could recheck their work.

I am going to ask another tech here for his opinion. You may see a response from Ken. He is excellent and may know exactly what to check. Lets see if he has any different ideas.

Joe
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Monday, January 7th, 2019 AT 5:04 PM
Tiny
DANNY REYNA
  • MEMBER
  • 7 POSTS
So I went back today before they could close and we’re able to get the TPMS working but before I got there all those lights turned off besides the brake and battery but now we think the alternator is bad and just went out on bad timing.
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Monday, January 7th, 2019 AT 5:07 PM
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
  • 108,112 POSTS
Hi Danny:

If you have a volt meter or a multi meter, it's really easy to check the alternator yourself. First, check battery voltage with everything off. It should be at 12 volts or slightly above. Then, start the engine. Voltage at the battery should be around 14 volts. Here are links that explain it more in detail as well as using a multi meter:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-a-car-alternator

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-use-a-voltmeter

Let me know what you find. Also, if it is just the brake light and nothing else, make sure the brake fluid is full.

Joe

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Monday, January 7th, 2019 AT 5:24 PM
Tiny
KEN L
  • MASTER CERTIFIED MECHANIC
  • 42,783 POSTS
It sounds like the car is going into limp mode which can be caused by a dirty throttle bore which loses correlation between the throttle pedal sensor and the throttle actuator. I would service the throttle bore to see what happens. Disconnect the battery first.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/throttle-actuator-service

Check the alternator voltage output as well. Please run down this guide and report back.
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Wednesday, January 9th, 2019 AT 9:54 AM

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