My gauges and instrument cluster has stopped working?

Tiny
COOLRIDER1957
  • MEMBER
  • 2007 CHEVROLET SILVERADO
  • 6.6L
  • V8
  • 4WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 275,000 MILES
I was driving along the interstate at 65 MPH with the cruise on and the red brake and ABS started coming on and off, then it added the airbag light on and off at random, ten minutes later the security and alternator light came on and stayed on. The gauges at that point stopped working, all except the speedometer and the tachometer. I wasn't in a good spot to pull over so I kept driving, the truck ran and performed perfectly normal. I knew it wasn't a belt that broke, still had power steering, I actually drove it two more hours and the batteries were charging. My diagnostic port went out as well so I couldn't plug in my scanner. That I am guessing is the fuse. Haven't looked at that yet. Any idea what might be malfunctioning?
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Sunday, December 20th, 2020 AT 6:40 AM

40 Replies

Tiny
KENW1
  • EXPERT
Hello,

Fuse 48 in the under hood fuse box feeds the instrument cluster.

The data link connector receives power from the cigarette lighter fuse.

What you're experiencing was a common issue on these trucks where the data bus communication signal is lost between the IPC (instrument cluster) and other modules. Most often the cluster requires replacement. There are some rebuilding services on eBay for this.
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Sunday, December 20th, 2020 AT 3:57 PM
Tiny
KEN L
  • ADMIN
Here is how you can check the fuse and the fuse location. If the fuse is good chances are the cluster has gone out here is a video showing you how to change it out:

https://youtu.be/_HEC44xENxw

and

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-a-car-fuse

Check out the diagrams (below). Let us know what happens and please upload pictures or videos of the problem.
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Monday, December 21st, 2020 AT 11:14 AM
Tiny
COOLRIDER1957
  • MEMBER
Thank you for the answers, I will have to look into it some more, the bad part is, I went to check things out and of course it all fixed itself when I started the truck, everything went to normal, I am going to see if maybe the fuse has some corrosion on the legs causing an intermittent issue
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Tuesday, December 22nd, 2020 AT 3:39 AM
Tiny
KEN L
  • ADMIN
Sounds good, try unplugging the cluster and check the connector for corrosion, but this is typical when the cluster goes out.
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Tuesday, December 22nd, 2020 AT 8:12 AM
Tiny
MONIQUE
  • MEMBER
  • 2006 CHEVROLET SILVERADO
  • AUTOMATIC
The gauges on my 2006 Chevy Silverado, like the speedometer, fuel level, battery level are not working. Help, I already go pulled over once
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Wednesday, June 2nd, 2021 AT 12:40 PM (Merged)
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • EXPERT
This is common when the instrument cluster goes out which is common by first lets check the fuses by using this guide.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-a-car-fuse

If the fuses are okay I would replace the cluster which is easy. Here is a video to show you how.

https://youtu.be/_HEC44xENxw

Check out the diagrams (Below). Please let us know what happens.
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Wednesday, June 2nd, 2021 AT 12:40 PM (Merged)
Tiny
FADY
  • MEMBER
I got my cluster from here but if you do a Google search in your area you can find the cluster you need. Aertech. Com the fuses were okay btw.
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Wednesday, June 2nd, 2021 AT 12:40 PM (Merged)
Tiny
NICK SCHLEY
  • MEMBER
I have a 2004 Chevrolet Silverado 1500 ext cab. All my gauges including odometer/gear read out have stopped working. The lights within the gauges still active. But all are on zero with no movement. Is this likely to be the cluster, fuse or a singular wiring issue? Thank so much in advance.
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Wednesday, June 2nd, 2021 AT 12:40 PM (Merged)
Tiny
KEN L
  • ADMIN
Check the fuses first by using the guides above. if the fuses are okay chances are the cluster is bad which is common. here is a video that shows how to do the job:

https://youtu.be/_HEC44xENxw

Please let us know what you find. We are interested to see what it is.
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Wednesday, June 2nd, 2021 AT 12:40 PM (Merged)
Tiny
FISH 4102
  • MEMBER
  • 2005 CHEVROLET SILVERADO
  • 4.8L
  • V8
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 200,000 MILES
I have a problem with all my gauges not working on my speedometer cluster also my air conditioner will not come on unless I jump the relay in the fuse panel. I have already had my speedometer cluster repaired so it is good, but upon reading a lot of information I removed my BCM under the dash and opened the circuit board. Then I had a friend that is very good with a soldering gun re-solder some circuits that may or may not have been defective. After putting the BCM back in the truck I cranked it up and everything started working like it was supposed to even the A/C. Everything worked for about two weeks perfectly then one morning got in to go to work and cranked up and all the gauges went to zero again except for my speedometer and tachometer. My question is, do you think replacing the BCM will fix my problem and if it does do I need to buy a new one or a re-manufactured one and will it have to be reprogrammed? I have asked a 100 different people and gotten a 100 different answers. Please help if possible. I also have a no communication on the scanner.
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Wednesday, June 2nd, 2021 AT 12:40 PM (Merged)
Tiny
ASEMASTER6371
  • EXPERT
Good afternoon.

With the little information you have given me, it is hard to say. The fact that you cannot communicate with the ECM tells me you either have an issue with the serial data line or the ECM itself.

I would address this issue first as it may be the source of your issue. You need to unplug one module at a time and watch to see if you can communicate with any module. Time-consuming procedure but must be done before you can point a finger anywhere as to the failure. Is the check engine light on?

I do not like to guess and I know you have had a lot of recommendations but you need to start with basics to find the issue.

Check pin 16 in your connector under the dash for power.

Roy
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Wednesday, June 2nd, 2021 AT 12:40 PM (Merged)
Tiny
FISH 4102
  • MEMBER
Yes sir, I have checked for voltage out of the OBD connector under the dash and it shows 12 volts. I came to the conclusion of the BCM when I was looking for what I thought was a short. I took the positive side of the battery loose and held a multi meter to the negative side of the battery and it started showing voltage so I started removing fuses one at the time until I got to the BCM fuse. When I removed it the voltage at the negative post went to zero so I thought maybe that was part of my problem. So from there I removed the BCM and soldered it and it worked for a couple of weeks. The check engine light does work because it threw a code about three days into that two week period but I hooked up the scanner again and it showed no codes stored in the computer. The computer was actually the first diagnosis I had so I bought one and took it to an ASE certified shop in town to have it programmed. When I went to pick it up the guy at the shop told me he did not think it was the computer. When I asked him what he thought it was he said it could be a loose wire. So I asked him if he would mind looking at it. He said sure no problem. So I took it back to him the next day and for nine straight days I left it all day for him and he never looked at it again. So that is how I wound up trying to fix it myself because I could not get anyone else to help me. So I have been going solo on this thing for a couple of months. I have learned a lot but I do not quite have it figured out yet. And I want to thank you for acknowledging this I know I am not much help but I thought I would give it a shot and see. There is not much I have not tried with the limited knowledge I have. But that is how I came about this site.
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Wednesday, June 2nd, 2021 AT 12:40 PM (Merged)
Tiny
ASEMASTER6371
  • EXPERT
Okay, got it.

You need to start where I told you by disconnecting the modules one at a time until your scan tool will communicate.

Lets see which module is not allowing communication.

Never remove the positive cable first. The rule is negative off first and back on last to prevent voltage surge to the modules.

Roy
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Wednesday, June 2nd, 2021 AT 12:40 PM (Merged)
Tiny
FISH 4102
  • MEMBER
I got you, I will be a good student. I was trying to give you as much information as possible. I bought another scan tool for myself and I have communication now apparently mine was too cheap but I paid for it. This is the first time I have had communication with it because I have not had signal to the computer since I owned the truck. And the tech that tried to program my new computer could not get signal either but I have it now for whatever reason.
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Wednesday, June 2nd, 2021 AT 12:40 PM (Merged)
Tiny
ASEMASTER6371
  • EXPERT
Okay, do you have any current or history codes stored in any module?
Roy
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Wednesday, June 2nd, 2021 AT 12:40 PM (Merged)
Tiny
SANDYFETZ
  • MEMBER
  • 2004 CHEVROLET SILVERADO
  • 6 CYL
  • 4WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 100,000 MILES
The engine runs fine but all the gauges on the dash stopped working.
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Wednesday, June 2nd, 2021 AT 12:40 PM (Merged)
Tiny
DOCFIXIT
  • EXPERT
Underhood fuse box check fuse IGN E and IPC/DIC here is a guide with the fuse location in the diagrams below.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-a-car-fuse

Check out the diagrams (Below). Please let us know what you find. We are interested to see what it is.
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Wednesday, June 2nd, 2021 AT 12:40 PM (Merged)
Tiny
327W2ND
  • MEMBER
  • 2004 CHEVROLET SILVERADO
  • 5.3L
  • V8
  • 4WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 110,000 MILES
I have power and orange wire going to the doors but the windows locks in mirrors and cluster gauges do not work. I got separated from my wife last winter and I really don't know what happened with the truck since I've been gone. I don't know if somebody harvested some parts or what. But I found a connector driver side behind the light switch above the transfer case shift module that has been plugged into something but there's nothing in it now and no place to plug it in. I think a splicer pack belongs in it or a busbar whatever you like to call it. Jumping bar but I'm really not sure it's a 12 pin connector female and it has 10 pins in it. I will send you a picture the top of the connection is labeled f which is like a light brown e which is white d which is purple c which is blue. I'm not sure what the last two letters are what the next color is dark green then in the end one I believe it's purple orange and pink. There's two wires going in it and then on the bottom. I think the letters are j which is gray then h which is blue with a white stripe. The next two terminals are empty and then there's l which is brown and then m which is lime green. I appreciate you reading this hope you can make some sense of it. Thank you
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Wednesday, June 2nd, 2021 AT 12:40 PM (Merged)
Tiny
327W2ND
  • MEMBER
Thank you for letting me post on your site to 2CarPros. This morning I decided to go to a salvage yard that had 2004 Chevrolet Silverado. I told him what I was in search of and asked him if I could go dissect one of the trucks and I was correct somebody had taken the splice pack out of the connector in my truck. So it harvested the one at the salvage yard and I scored a couple extra parts to for $42.00 I'm relieved. Thank you guys I'm just in hopes when I put it in all is good.
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Wednesday, June 2nd, 2021 AT 12:40 PM (Merged)
Tiny
KEN L
  • ADMIN
Hello,

That is a good one, it looks like it might be heated on one side of the connector? Please let us know if that fixes it.
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Wednesday, June 2nd, 2021 AT 12:40 PM (Merged)

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