Engine cranks but does not start after replacing the crankshaft position sensor

Hello!

Was the vehicle running before the crankshaft position sensor was replaced? Or is this a new symptom?

I've attached a schematic below that shows where to find the fuse for the crankshaft position sensor in the under-hood fuse relay center. You might want to check that fuse for power.

These guides also may help you diagnose what's preventing the truck from starting:

https://youtu.be/dCjmRL3p4Cs

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/car-cranks-but-wont-start

Please let us know if there's anything else we can help with.

Thanks, Wendy W.

Hello!

When you checked with the scanner, did you get either a P0337 or P0338 code? If so, which one? Did you find any other codes along with the crankshaft position sensor code?

Thanks, Wendy W.

Hello!

Thank you so much for providing that information. I found a technical service bulletin regarding the crankshaft position sensor, and I've attached it below for your reference.

The TSB suggests that it is possible to have flywheel damage resulting from a bad crankshaft sensor. When you crank the engine, does it sound like it's spinning normally? If the flywheel was damaged, it could prevent the starter from engaging properly.

If that all checks out okay, I've also attached a diagnostic aid below that you may be able to use along with your scanner. The diagnostic chart can help guide you through checking the throttle position sensor, coolant temperature sensor, fuel pump, and ignition system.

In the under-hood fuse relay center, there is a 20-amp ECM fuse, which you may want to check as well. Please see the schematic below.

Please let us know what you find.

Thanks, Wendy W.

Hello,

Yes, that's a good idea to check the wiring harness for any damage.

The crank fuse in the interior fuse block is for the DERM, or Diagnostic Energy Reserve Module. I've attached a schematic for your reference, below. The blown fuse may be related to an issue with the supplemental inflatable restraint system. Are you getting an airbag warning light on the dash?

This may not be related to the no-start condition. How did the 20 amp ECM fuse look in the underhood fuse block? You said you have no spark at the plugs. Were you able to check for spark at the ignition coil as well?

Thanks, Wendy W.

Hi Ken,

Is the white build-up on the contacts inside the distributor cap, or on the posts themselves? A little white or yellow build-up on the posts could be normal. I've attached a guide for testing the distributor components, below.

If you are getting spark at the coil, you may want to check to see if you're getting proper fuel pressure. On this vehicle, it should be between 56-62 PSI with the key on and the fuel pump running.

I hope this helps, Wendy W.