Cranking?

Tiny
READYFORATRADE
  • MEMBER
  • 1991 CHEVROLET SILVERADO
  • 4.3L
  • 6 CYL
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 188,000 MILES
My original post had gotten to the point that I just felt better starting all over. So here goes the history hopefully we can get it fixed. I have a 1991 Chevrolet 1500 Silverado package 6 cylinder 4.3 motor that originally back in April quit running I was driving it and it just cut off I didn't lose power the motor just cut off I Coasted off the road set for a couple of minutes and the truck crunk right back up. I went about 30 yards and it died again and I haven't been able to get it to crank or run again. I have replaced the battery, checked the grounds, fuel filter, the map sensor, 3 sets of plugs, plug wires, air filter, distributor, the whole timing chain kit, I have took off and cleaned the EGR valve, I tested the fuel pump it's good and checked all fuses in other words I've been to the mountains and back with his truck and still nothing. I've set the timing manually and yes I made sure that it was on what the factory says it should be which is 0° and it was at top dead center with the rotor on the distributor pointing at spark plug number one. I have since went and got a compression tester a fuel compression tester and a timing light and a tool to see if each spark plug is getting fire or not. By myself as stated and I've used you guys many times and never have y'all let me down I'm not saying y'all let me down now I'm just frustrated. As of right now I have took out the EGR valve. The only thing I can think of is I was told to use the first line on the crankshaft pulley when setting the timing but yet I've seen different answers on the web and also in the manual I have but I also started several mistakes in the manual. So I guess that's my first question which line on the crankshaft pulley do I use to set the motor at top dead center the first or second? The second question is does EGR valve need replacement the one I have on it it's original and when I press the button on the back it does move but when I apply vacuum nothing happens? It's my fault if that's the problem because y'all told me early on to check the EGR valve but I didn't run a vacuum test on it I just cleaned it and I figured when I push the button in the it moved it was all right. Going to go ahead and replace it and in case it don't work is there anything else I can do? The only good thing about it is that if it does crank finally it'll be a while before I have to work on it because of all the new parts. I just want to say it's hard to find information because for some reason 1991 Chevrolet Silverado the diagrams I find online and the forums I find online don't match up with the motor as far as where things are. So basically I'm saying with the Chilton manual having mistakes in it y'all are pretty much all I got. Big thing seems to be the timing and I understand that setting it manually is not ideal but I can't set it with the gun if it isn't running and I'm assure you that I set it word for word how I was told unplug the wire turn the crankshaft I made sure the rotor was pointing at number one spark plug and I made sure I was getting smart and the number one spark plug was top on a rotation and up stroke. Send a short video of the EGR valve like I said when I press the button you see it moving but when I put vacuum on it it doesn't move I don't know if I'm not using enough vacuum or not. I'll be waiting to hear back from you
Saturday, July 26th, 2025 AT 12:24 PM

12 Replies

Tiny
STEVE W.
  • MECHANIC
  • 15,233 POSTS
Okay, EGR - no motion when vacuum applied, replace it.
Are you saying that the engine turns over just fine but doesn't start? (Cranking to a mechanic = engine turning over from a crank handle or starting device)
As for timing and TDC. Being this is a 0 degree base there is an easy way, pull number one plug out, now bar the engine over while holding a finger or similar in the plug hole to seal it off, now when it comes up on compression it will try to force the finger out of the hole. At that point put a stiff wire or similar in there and watch the piston motion, at TDC it will have a dead spot. Mark where it starts moving on each side when you rock the crankshaft, halfway between is zero TDC. Now check the distributor and the crank pulley, point the rotor ay #1 and see if any line aligns with that mark, it's possible that the balancer slipped and isn't correct.
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Saturday, July 26th, 2025 AT 1:25 PM
Tiny
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This is where I think one problem is, I am alone so how do I put my finger in the plug hole and turn the motor over? I understand that you are saying you are telling me this because the balancer might be off so I don't want to go by the either line but the actual position of the cylinder. Also, can I do that with the EGR valve off as I have to get a new one? The motor turns over but doesn't run. The starter is working and I'm putting starter fluid in it.
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Saturday, July 26th, 2025 AT 1:44 PM
Tiny
READYFORATRADE
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Here is a video of what I mean by cranking.
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Saturday, July 26th, 2025 AT 2:12 PM
Tiny
STEVE W.
  • MECHANIC
  • 15,233 POSTS
Okay, is that the security light I see flashing? If so, then you have an issue with that shutting off the fuel because it doesn't see a valid key. That will cause it to crank over and maybe run a second or two, then it won't run after that. From the minimal amount I heard it fire it is in time. If it wasn't you would hear it backfiring out the intake or exhaust. Has the ignition been changed or a key without a pellet being used? Yes, it would start with the EGR off, it would be LOUD though.
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Saturday, July 26th, 2025 AT 4:34 PM
Tiny
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No that's not a security light; there is no security offered in 1991. There is a lot of play in the steering wheel, and I've trouble at times with the key being hard to twist on and it won't Go back at all.
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Saturday, July 26th, 2025 AT 5:15 PM
Tiny
STEVE W.
  • MECHANIC
  • 15,233 POSTS
Blew the video up and it looks like the CEL flashing. The key not turning Can cause that if the end of the cylinder isn't turning the insert and the switch fully. If you have someone spray it, will it run then? If yes, then you have a fuel issue. Have you tried using the pump prime circuit to hold the pump on while you try starting it?
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Saturday, July 26th, 2025 AT 6:06 PM
Tiny
READYFORATRADE
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  • 32 POSTS
The service engine soon comes on, but it goes off. I don't know if I mentioned it or not but I'm alone and don't have anybody to spray it. I have to get out and spray it and I'll jump in try to crank it. I don't know what the pump prime circuit is but what I've done is I run a wire from the battery up under to the dash where I put it into the fuel pump slot in the same place you would hook a code reader t, so it was constantly running then sprayed starter fluid and jumped in and tried to crank it. But I originally thought it was the ignition switch and was told differently so I just left it alone but know it sounds like you are saying that it could be the ignition switch? The answer to your question is no it still doesn't run when starter fluid is used. I already have to buy an EGR valve, and I am not sure if I can afford much more.
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Saturday, July 26th, 2025 AT 6:20 PM
Tiny
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Update. EGR valve is definitely bad I performed the vacuum test on it and also I pushed in with my hand and I sealed off the other hole and the diagram did not stay down and went straight back up so I'm going to order a new one but I was wondering shouldn't I be able to still crank the truck to where it is running even with the EGR valve off the motor. Cuz I'm thinking like I replace the EGR for sure but it's a truck still won't crank in the same place I am now.
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Sunday, July 27th, 2025 AT 6:12 AM
Tiny
STEVE W.
  • MECHANIC
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It would start without the EGR installed, it would just be loud and run poorly, but it would run. The EGR opens the exhaust and intake bot. A bad EGR like you have basically becomes a block off plate. So, although it is bad, it isn't the problem.
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Sunday, July 27th, 2025 AT 6:24 AM
Tiny
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So what do I need to look at while I'm waiting on the EGR valve?
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Sunday, July 27th, 2025 AT 6:25 AM
Tiny
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I believe it has something to do with the ignition switch or the ignition cylinder because as I mentioned there is play in the steering wheel and my father who own the truck before me had problems at times with the keys fitting and that gear of Chevy is notorious for cranking the motor and then taking the key out. I've had mentioned this to everybody I've talked to, and nobody seems to think that was the problem. I guess what I'm asking you is there a way to bypass the ignition key and all that just to see if it'll crank wouldn't that be a smart thing to do, I'm just asking I'm not trying to be rude. I'm just trying to get it fixed. I appreciate all the help I really do.
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Sunday, July 27th, 2025 AT 7:08 AM
Tiny
STEVE W.
  • MECHANIC
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Well the actual ignition switch is easy to test, it's mounted to the top of the column in the channel that the brake pedal mounts to. Basically, you remove the column bolts and tip the column down and the switch is right there on top. The cylinder moves a rack that pushes on the switch. However, if you have that much play in the column and a bad key cylinder, those combined could cause the switch to bridge contacts internally and burn the contacts.
The pivots in those columns can be repaired and if the lock cylinder is still working you could get a new one keyed to what you have and install that. That would take away two issues that you have and make the truck safer as well (I had a tilt column come apart on a 94 van, was not a fun ride) There are a few sites with the info on the rebuild of the column.
As for bypassing the switch, to get to the harness is the same work as removing the switch, however you can lower the column and use the mechanical rod to move the switch, that would show you if it's the switch or more likely the cylinder and column not moving the switch properly.
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Sunday, July 27th, 2025 AT 11:53 AM

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