Crank, no start

Someone is pulling your leg. The crankshaft position sensor can be a little hard to get to, but it slides right in behind the right cylinder head. The air gap was critical on older models. Those used a thick paper spacer glued to the end to set the gap. Many aftermarket replacements used a thin plastic rib molded onto the end. With those, if the sensor needed to be removed and reinstalled, you were supposed to cut the remaining part of that rib off, and use a new paper spacer. By 2000, that sensor just bolts in with no need to worry about the air gap.

You have already gone through most of the diagnostic steps, and the fact the ASD relay is turning on proves the crank and cam sensors are okay. Since you hear the fuel pump run for one second when you turn on the ignition switch, you should have fuel pressure, but you might want to verify that. Since spark is weak after the distributor cap, check the carbon button inside it, and the rotor. Do not overlook bad gas too. We had two in a row with that. After lots of frustration, it was finally observed that a sample of gas dumped on the ground would put out a lit match.

I have never bothered to measure resistances. Those are listed in service manuals mainly for training purposes to provide typical values. You will find perfectly-fine working items that measure out-of-specs as often as you will find non-working parts that measure fine. Ignition coils can arc internally, which has nothing to do with the resistances you measure with an ohm meter that only puts 6 to 9 volts on each winding.

About 95 percent of crank/no-starts are caused by a loss of spark and fuel, but you already observed that is not the case here since the ASD relay is turning on during cranking. That leaves a loss of fuel only which causes maybe four percent of these no-starts, and loss of spark only, which accounts for the least of them. You are going to find the cause of this no-start is bad fuel or no fuel pressure, no spark at the spark plugs due to fouled plugs or a problem inside the distributor cap, or a problem with timing, meaning a jumped timing chain.

Also, have you checked the diagnostic fault codes? Chrysler made doing that yourself much easier than any other manufacturer. Cycle the ignition switch from "off" to "run" three times within five seconds without cranking the engine, leave it in "run", then watch the code numbers show up in the odometer display. You can go here:

https://www.2carpros.com/trouble_codes/obd2/p0200

to see the definitions, or I can interpret them for you.

Dandy. Let me know when it's done and you're ready to buzz off, ... I mean "buzz off into the sunset"!