Car sat for a year no crank no start?

Hello Ivan.R,

The U0100 code is set when a battery is drained, or all the modules don't power up at the same time. I would clear this code.

Since you sprayed starting fluid in it, and it won't start sounds like it is not getting spark.

To do this, the best way is to use a spark tester. Here is one on Amazon for $11 from a good company.
https://www.amazon.com/Lisle-20610-Inline-Spark-Tester/dp/B0002STSC6/ref=pd_lpo_sccl_1/143-2214324-7874650?pd_rd_w=d6WnE&content-id=amzn1.sym.116f529c-aa4d-4763-b2b6-4d614ec7dc00&pf_rd_p=116f529c-aa4d-4763-b2b6-4d614ec7dc00&pf_rd_r=28NDASMW9MHH5WV7MWWT&pd_rd_wg=8NQ9P&pd_rd_r=a28b8cd9-4944-4ed3-a84f-3d7585641cf1&pd_rd_i=B0002STSC6&psc=1

You can also grab one at your local auto parts store. I will add a picture of one for you.

I would grab one and see if you are getting spark.

Since it has sat for a while, animals could have gotten into it and either chewed wires or built a nest in the air box. So, I would open up the air box and make sure it isn't full of acorns or something and look at all the wiring you can and make sure everything looks good, especially to injectors and ignition coils.

Here is an article on what to look for when checking for damaged wiring. Keep in mind it's a general article just to give you some information and so some of it may not apply to you:
https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-wiring

I would also go through and check fuses just to rule it out. This article will guide you:
https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-a-car-fuse

Let me know what you find, and we can go from there.

Thank you,
Brendon

Hello IVAN.R,

So sorry for your loss.

Do you know why he was replacing the PCM?

That sensor could keep it from starting to protect the engine. However, all 3 of those wires go to the PCM.

I found the GM part number for the connector: 15477863

Found it on this site for you:
https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Aptiv-formerly-Delphi/15477863?qs=xyz6lfZ1ktKF6aVQfcEJtA%3D%3D

I have never bought from this site, but it says it's formally Delphi, which is who would have made the connector in the first place.

The part number for the sensor is: 12674782

The have one on Rock Auto, here is the link:
https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/pontiac,2010,g6,3.5l+v6,1446299,electrical-switch+&+relay,oil+pressure+sender+/+switch,4588

It might be covered in oil because the seal behind it is bad or it is leaking through the sensor itself. I can't find the seal separately, looks like it is just an O-ring. However, the sensor is pretty cheap. $26.

If you really wanted to try rigging something up you could take it out and clean it with electrical cleaner (I added a pic for you), put an O-ring on it, and use female connectors with heat shrink (I will add a picture of both) and plug the wires in individually. There isn't a whole lot of room on the sensor so I am not sure if you will be able to get anything in there.

Surround the whole end of the connector then up the wire a few inches with the heat shrink so everything is protected.

It is going to depend on the length of the harness too because you will lose length when you have to cut those connectors off. I don't know how much you have to work with though.

We also don't know if that sensor is good. Sounds like he was on to something, I wonder if it has anything to do with the new PCM.

You might need a special socket to take this sensor out, they are an odd shape. This socket will keep it from stripping out. Here is the link to one I found from Lisle, great company.

https://www.amazon.com/Lisle-13250-Pressure-Switch-Socket/dp/B0002SR2RY

Thank you,
Brendon

Good morning, IVAN.R,

Awesome! Sounds like we are getting somewhere. I think you are headed in the right direction. The purge solenoid is located on the engine though. Here is a video from someone I don't know personally but have watched his channel since 2016 and have spoke with. He is very smart and explains things very well. I usually try not to get info from YouTube because it is usually only somewhat correct, but this guy is on a completely different level.
https://youtu.be/LYifnstYsx4

The vent solenoid is located on the charcoal canister or attached to it via a hose, usually hardened plastic.

If the purge solenoid is stuck open it can cause that smell. The EVAP System is usually tested with a smoke machine and a scan tool to try and open and close the purge and vent solenoid. If the valve is stuck open it could cause the fuel odor. It should only open when the vehicle is at operating temperature.

But if it is stuck open, it will also cause a massive vacuum leak. Which could cause the engine to die.

To check the purge solenoid, you can use a multi-meter. If you don't have one, Home Depot has a nice one that I own myself, it's made by Klien. Here is the link:
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Klein-Tools-600V-Auto-Ranging-Digital-Multimeter-MM400/206517333

You are going to set the multimeter to the Omega symbol because we will be testing for resistance in ohms.

First touch the 2 leads together and make sure you don't have any resistance in them that would skew our results. Then unplug the solenoid and put the test leads on the pins on the sensor. Don't use it on the connector or harness because it can fry the PCM because when testing for resistance a small amount of current is used as a reference.

A good reading should be in the realm of 14-30 Ohms. Anything outside that range would indicate a faulty solenoid.

I have added an image of the sensor and a view of the pins you need to touch with the multimeter. I have also added an image of its location and connector information for you.

Let me know what you get for a reading.

A big thing with GM is it will not run if the MAF or Mass Air-Flow sensor is either malfunctioning or the intake tube is not connected properly.

Is the intake hooked up and MAF plugged in? I would double check all of this. This sensor should be located on the intake tube near the air filter.

Sometimes, because of the design of the intake and position of the throttle body, the intake tube won't seal correctly around the throttle body, especially at the bottom. The 3.5 is a pain but the 2.4 is even worse. I use a tiny amount of oil on my finger and just put a small amount on the rubber part that slides over the throttle body, loosen the clamp as much as possible and seat the tube on the throttle body fully and tighten down. Then you can hook the rest of it up.

On a cold start, the PCM relies on this sensor to measure the amount of air entering the engine, so it knows how much fuel to give it. On your engine this sensor also includes something called IAT or Intake Air Temperature Sensor. This allows the PCM to compensate for denser cold air which would need more fuel to run the engine efficiently as well as compensate for hot air.

If it isn't hooked up correctly this could cause it to dump fuel and explain the fuel smell.

After doing this try starting it and let's see if it runs longer or anything changes. If not, I would use the multi meter and check the function of the MAF.

I am adding connector information for you as well as a few tests to run.

To do this the connector will need to be plugged into the sensor, so you will need to back-prob the connector. You can back probe using pins, I will add images of 2 different kinds you can use.

It is imperative that the pins don't touch during testing, or the PCM or MAF can be damaged.

Things we know:
You smell fuel so we know we are getting at least some.
It also started so we know we are getting spark.

So, checking the air coming into the engine and making sure it is being measured properly is the next best step.

*Note-These tests refer to a yellow lead, for this you will use the red lead on your meter. Black will be the same.

Please let me know if I can help with any testing, a lot of times these test procedures can be a little confusing.

Check these couple things and let me know what you find so we can go from there.

Thank you,
Brendon