Cooling system?

Thanks for the info on blown head gaskets, I did the bubble test again watching the bubbles more closely. The bubbles started rising slowly but as the temperature increased the bubbles increased. When the temperature gauge reached halfway the fluid in the funnel erupted. I decided to try the Blue Devil head gasket sealer with the yellow label for $50. Followed the directions on the label. Removed thermostat, drained coolant, flushed system with water. Filled system with water and ran with heater on until blowing hot air to make sure to flush heater core. Drained and refilled with water. I used a cooling system flush (sodium citrate) to clean system. Flushed until no more bubbles and clean water came out. Allowed system to cool several hours before pouring in the Blue Devil sealer. Ran engine for 55 minutes, let cool down and reinstalled thermostat. Refilled system with about 1 gallon of antifreeze. Using the burp funnel again to make sure all air was out of system. As the temperature increased so did the bubbles until the funnel erupted again. Not sure if I should try the sealer again maybe using the blue devil flush instead of the cheaper brand.

Thanks Joe, I’ll start by looking at the plugs and check compression. The coolant starts coming out when the gauge is only about halfway and about the time the thermostat is opening. The engine seems to be running smooth, I’m not really noticing any rough idle or miss fire. This vehicle belongs to my niece, and she now is telling me that the car has overheated in the past. I’m thinking that it may have warped the head.

I’ve decided to go ahead and do the head gaskets. I have the alternator, ac compressor, power steering pump, fan shroud, both valve covers off. I also have the air intake unbolted but can’t get it to come off. It’s hitting where the firewall folds out over the throttle body. I removed the throttle body, but it still hits on the throttle body mount. I can’t slide it forward because the heads wrap in front of intake. I’m wondering if I need to take it off at all. I set the timing mark on the crank to top dead center and both cam sprockets are in the wright position. Do I need to remove the timing chain cover to get the cam sprockets off? I wasn’t planning on doing the timing chain. I still need to unbolt the exhaust manifolds, which looks like it won’t be easy. The spark plugs all look good and there is no water in the oil.

Thanks for the advice on the air intake removal. I’ll try removing the motor mount. I’m going to go ahead and remove the timing chain cover, just to be on the safe side for cam sprockets removal and inspect guides and tensioners. You’re right about this being a big job.

Joe,

I have the timing mark on the harmonic balancer set to the TDC mark on the block. Does it matter if it’s on compression stroke or exhaust?

Joe,
I finally have the Jeep grand Cherokee back on the road. After the installation of the new head gaskets, the head bolt’s torqued, timing set, everything back together. Started the Jeep and everything sounded great. I checked the oil dip stick, and it was milky, water in the oil, wasn’t there before I started work. I remembered that when I removed the timing cover that water ran out and down into the oil pan. Changed the oil and filter, no more milky oil after running it for a while. I thought all was well until I saw coolant dripping from under the driver's side head near the firewall. I saw in videos that others were using two different torque methods. Discovered that one was for jeeps up to 2001 and the other was for 2002 and later, mine is a 2010. I used the wrong torque settings. Removed the valve covers backed off the head bolts and retorqued the heads again for the 2010 engine requirements. 20 ft lbs twice, then 90 degrees then 90 degrees again. So far, I have no leaks from heads. I took the car for a ride and when I got back coolant had overflowed from the radiator cap. That was second new cap. Found out that jeep recommends using only Jeep radiator cap. My niece has been driving the Jeep for a couple days now and no more leaks or overheating so far. I hope the information on torque required and the radiator cap will help someone out.