Control Module - Infra-red lock

Tiny
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That's the exact same sheet I was going by. This is the other half of it for testing the module and wiring. I've asked multiple people about this issue, and only had one person tell me the immobilizer can be disable but he didn't know how.
One thing about the 32/38 pin connector, when you get it, open it up and make sure the wires inside are actually soldered to the other connector. I saw some of them were fake adapters I guess, where there were no connections inside the actual connector from the OBD2 side. I really hope yours works. But maybe he is right, in the long run here to get this thing going maybe you'll need to find another module. I can't really find an explanation on how it was bypassed, almost everyone said you can't do it. But obviously something was done to get it running in the past.
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Thursday, December 16th, 2021 AT 10:44 AM
Tiny
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Hi AL514
Based on all the info and research done on this car situation, I have come to the point to believe this car ECU was flashed to put it in an virgin state for reprogram and disable the immobilizer. Why I am leaning towards such point is because when I got the car I could have start it with the blade key and I had to lock up the car with the blade key as well without the remote IR FOB. This confirmed the immobilizer was disabled (I found a website that supposedly to have the step by step info on how to disable or bypass the immobilizer, but the info was taken down to prevent bad people getting their hands on it which makes sense.) There was no red and green LED lights under the rear view mirror functioning. And at that time, the lock control module was missing from the passenger side foot well. Only the alarm was working. After disconnect the battery for a few days to fix the driver's side window motor and when the battery was reconnected that's when this whole issue of crank and no start begins. I am now thinking the car previous ECU program may have got erased so the car ECU is now returned to it's virgin state and now needs to be reprogram. Some folks online are saying I will need a MB Star Programmer scan tool to reprogram it. Here are a few videos I was looking at where the first video guy was using an Autel IM608 to do so:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hK-S8GkFkfM
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eWZQGU2RGWc
https://carlabimmo.com/

I have also noticed from one of the videos I have recognized the live data - Drive Authorization stored in the ECU with the Start Enable having a No for the value while being reprogram. See the image below
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Friday, December 17th, 2021 AT 11:45 AM
Tiny
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I tried to update you but the system wouldn't let me. Okay, I figured it out.
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Friday, December 17th, 2021 AT 11:46 AM
Tiny
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Hi AL514,

Based on all the info and research done on this car situation, I have come to the point of believing this car ECU was flashed to put it in a virgin state for reprogram and disable the immobilizer. Why I am leaning towards such point is because when I got the car, I could have started it with the blade key and I had to lock up the car with the blade key as well without the remote IR FOB. This confirmed the immobilizer was disabled (I found a website that supposedly to have the step-by-step info on how to disable or bypass the immobilizer, but the info was taken down to prevent bad people getting their hands on it which makes sense.)
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Friday, December 17th, 2021 AT 11:47 AM
Tiny
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There was no red and green LED lights under the rear view mirror functioning. And at that time, the lock control module was missing from the passenger side foot well. Only the alarm was working. After disconnect the battery for a few days to fix the driver's side window motor and when the battery was reconnected that's when this whole issue of crank and no start begins. I am now thinking the car previous ECU program may have got erased so the car ECU is now returned to it's virgin state and now needs to be reprogram. Some folks online are saying I will need a MB Star Programmer scan tool to reprogram it. Here are a few videos I was looking at where the first video guy was using an Autel IM608 to do so:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hK-S8GkFkfM
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eWZQGU2RGWc
https://carlabimmo.com/

I have also noticed from one of the videos I have recognized the live data - Drive Authorization stored in the ECU with the Start Enable having a No for the value while being reprogram. See the image below
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Friday, December 17th, 2021 AT 11:47 AM
Tiny
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There were no red and green LED lights under the rear-view mirror functioning. And at that time, the lock control module was missing from the passenger side foot well. Only the alarm was working. After disconnecting the battery for a few days to fix the driver's side window motor and when the battery was reconnected that's when this whole issue of crank and no start begins. I am now thinking the car previous ECU program may have gotten erased so the car ECU is now returned to its virgin state and now needs to be reprogram. Some folks online are saying I will need a MB Star Programmer scan tool to reprogram it.
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Friday, December 17th, 2021 AT 11:48 AM
Tiny
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Here are a few videos I was looking at where the first video guy was using an Autel IM608 to do so:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hK-S8GkFkfM
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eWZQGU2RGWc
https://carlabimmo.com/
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Friday, December 17th, 2021 AT 11:51 AM
Tiny
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Here are a few YouTube videos I was looking at where the first video guy was using an Autel IM608 to do so:

watch?V=hK-S8GkFkfM
watch?V=eWZQGU2RGWc
and check this site out, interesting.
Carlabimmo. Com/

I have also noticed from one of the videos I have recognized the live data - Drive Authorization stored in the ECU with the Start Enable having a No for the value while being reprogram. See the image below
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Friday, December 17th, 2021 AT 11:56 AM
Tiny
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Yes, I was thinking in the live data it would have a drive auth state of yes or no. The fobs obviously won't work without the infrared module. This is the issue with some guys that have a $1,000.00 scan tool that can do things for with the security systems. Most of them are more than that. It's an uneven playing field. Working two jobs and I don't make enough to go out and buy the scan tool I'd really like. I did also notice the information taken down due to it being used improperly. Of course, it would be an almost $3,000.00 scan tool. Even if you were to find an infrared module it too would need to be programmed and married to the ECM currently in the car. It's unfortunate that it's disabling the fuel injectors. There's no way to get around that, I will watch the videos you linked to in a few, I've read so much information on this issue and it's all pretty much saying the same thing you're finding. I am kind of surprised that the ECM would lose its programming though, the red and green LEDs under the mirror are straight from the Infrared module, so they wouldn't be there. An ECM that was re-flashed really shouldn't lose its coding. Too bad you don't have the previous techs information to contact him again. I suppose if you have mobile technicians in your area, you could call one and see if one of them has the capability to reflash the ECM. Thats all he would need to do really, let me know if that's an option where you live. Because I don't want to leave this case unsettled.

Found one more thing to try.
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Friday, December 17th, 2021 AT 12:32 PM
Tiny
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Have you tried going into the OBD2 side with the scan tool, when it starts up, instead of selecting Mercedes, there's an option in the top left corner for OBD2 global side? I'm wondering if you can gain any access to anything on that side instead of the manufactures side.
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Friday, December 17th, 2021 AT 3:21 PM
Tiny
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Yes, I tried going into the OBD2 option in the top left corner on the screen where all the cars manufacturers are listed. On my scanner it is called EODB. I had no luck with it connecting to the ECM. I am also checking around my location for a mobile tech who knows how to reprogram or flash the ECM for this car.
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Friday, December 17th, 2021 AT 4:45 PM
Tiny
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I am also thinking the previous tech when he flashes the ECM did not hard code some of the car manufacturer data such as the VIN number. Otherwise, my scanner would have able to retrieve it; instead, it is empty. I have to enter it so the scanner can download the proper data (Diagnostic Tool/FBS). My scanner cannot write that data to the ECM and allows the inputting of the VIN. I looked up the Autel scanner the guy from one of the videos was using is not cheap.
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Friday, December 17th, 2021 AT 5:09 PM
Tiny
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Yeah, I looked at one of those scanners awhile back, they were not cheap at all. Some cars just don't auto ID the vehicle because of its age, I get cars that won't sometimes, so that's nothing to do with bypassing the module. I had a 2001 Ford Ranger that would auto ID and then a 2004 Jeep that wouldn't. It depends on the capability of the ECM. Make sure you ask the mobile tech that comes out ahead of time on the phone if he has a scan tool that can do security system changes. Im really surprised you can't get into Global OBD side, which should have worked. The only thing I keep coming up with over and over is CAN communication Drive Auth Not Granted. I'm wondering if he did something and then removed the DAS module. But without it we're pretty much stuck. I've read so much different information and just end up back at the same spot again.
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Saturday, December 18th, 2021 AT 11:55 AM
Tiny
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The only module the previous tech removed was the Anti-theft lock module. The DAS is still in place; unless the DAS module itself is bad, then that's not good. I will have to find a used DAS and ECM with the same part numbers and also get them re-flash and reprogram. I found this company which seems to be a national mobile tech services company who specializes in auto electronic for all makes and models vehicles name "Elitek Vehicle Services". Have you ever heard of them? I am going to call them this coming Monday to hear what they can do. I am hoping they can rectify the issue and at a reasonable price.
If you have any questions, I need to ask them let me know. Two heads better than one.
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Sunday, December 19th, 2021 AT 7:44 AM
Tiny
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Oh, wait. I thought you said the Infrared DAS had been removed?
So, what do you have, you have a mechanical key, any FOBs?
Was this the module removed, its responsible for actuating the locks and such.
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Sunday, December 19th, 2021 AT 12:19 PM
Tiny
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My car has a mechanical key with one button infra-red FOB only; I do not have the EIS (Electronic Ignition Switch). The anti-theft lock control module was removed, so only the mechanical key is used for open/locking and starting the car. However, the DAS must have been disabled to allow only the mechanical key to work without the transponder ring around the ignition to read the FOB frequency and send it to the DAS with the rolling code. DAS will then validate the data with the ECU which gives the authorization to start. Remember, I was operating the car with only the mechanical key until I disconnected the battery for about three days. When I reconnected the battery that's when the car stops starting.
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Sunday, December 19th, 2021 AT 4:09 PM
Tiny
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Okay, sorry I just wanted to get a clear picture here. Does the mechanical key turn in the ignition switch? Also try this, leave the key in the ignition switch (off position) for 90 minutes. I just want to see if that works. It's part of one of their key procedures. I've been reading about MB systems, and they have quite a few different ones, I guess they have changed the Start Auth system a lot over the years. It's good to know your car doesn't even have the EIS, which would complicate things a lot more. And does the transponder have any LEDs built into it? And do they light up?
I'm asking because the DAS has the infrared integrated into it. It's not a separate module.

Okay, I just went back through everything you wrote previously. You got a different key fob, transponder from the junkyard with the same part number, but yes that one will need to be married/taught to the vehicle. Thats why it's flashing red.
These cars have so many things that need to happen in order to start, one module sends a signal to another, then another, and so on.
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Sunday, December 19th, 2021 AT 4:24 PM
Tiny
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You will have to focus only on the 1997 E320 W210 because it is easy to get sidetrack with all other info surrounding the E320. Every year Benz makes some changes to their electronic system. The 1998 model uses an EIS which includes the transponder and incorporates the DAS within the ECM, so the system is not the same as the 1996 - 1997 which has the components separated. I have accidentally left the key within the car in the "0" position for about two days and it did not work. Yes, the used transponder from the junk yard needs to get married/taught to the car so as the anti-theft lock control module. My infra-red signal receiver LED lights doesn't work and I think it's because of the anti-theft control module. My DAS is not an IR- DAS. The above image which year car is it for?
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Sunday, December 19th, 2021 AT 10:08 PM
Tiny
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That's from your car. 1997 Mercedes E320. That diagram is the Data lines and the modules. It's the bottom half of the diagram. All the network wiring. The Pneumatic System Equipment Control Module is the other part of the security system. It controls the actuators for the locks and trunk lid etc. I'm very focused on this car and have been the whole time. Almost every fix for this code has something to do with the new fob or new batteries in it.
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Monday, December 20th, 2021 AT 1:11 PM
Tiny
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I am still looking for a local mobile auto electronic tech who has the proper tool to check the system and reprogram any of the modules that's need to be sync including the IR-FOB.
One company I located so for is "Elitek Vehicle Services", they claim they can do the job, but they don't go to homes. I will have to take my car to a auto service shop and they will go there and fix it. I hope to hear from a couple more mobile tech tomorrow Tuesday. I just want to weed out the possible causes.
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Monday, December 20th, 2021 AT 8:33 PM

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