Clutch Master cylinder replacement

Tiny
JOHN T MILLER
  • MEMBER
  • 2010 FORD MUSTANG
  • 4.6L
  • V8
  • RWD
  • MANUAL
  • 550,000 MILES
Had clutch pedal issues, and knowing I have a hydraulic system I assumed it was slave cylinder/throw out bearing to be the culprit. After ordering parts (although no other clutch issues, decided to go ahead and do complete upgraded clutch job since already dropping transmission and that deep into it). Started doing bit more research as I have never tackled this job on a vehicle this new I have come to the conclusion my clutch master cylinder is the actual culprit of my problems. I am still going on ahead with previous intentions as I have already dropped transmission and am now also replacing clutch master, but I am having an extremely difficult time finding any truly helpful instructions (the few I have found say covers up to my 2010 GT, while "they" are working on a 2005~2008, but what I see in video does not hardly look anything like mine). Any help you can provide (link or whatever; and yes I am subscribed to and thoroughly enjoy your YouTube channel) I would greatly appreciate.
Thanks again, John
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Friday, March 3rd, 2017 AT 12:04 PM

3 Replies

Tiny
KEN
  • ADMIN
Hey John,

Here is a link to help you with the clutch job.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-replace-a-clutch

and

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/throw-out-bearing-replacement

Clutch master replacement instructions:

Remove the brake pedal and bracket assembly. For additional information, refer to Hydraulic System, Brakes and/or Brake Pedal Assembly.
Remove the retaining clip from the clutch pedal pin.
Remove the two clutch master cylinder bolts, then disconnect the clutch master cylinder from the clutch pedal.
To install, tighten to 10 Nm (89 lb-in).
Remove the reservoir hose from the clutch master cylinder.

Please let us know what happens.

Best, Ken

See image below

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Friday, March 3rd, 2017 AT 4:56 PM
Tiny
JOHN T MILLER
  • MEMBER
Thanks for your time. Will I have the room to do this without detaching the brake lines, or will they also need to be removed? I am hoping to only be dealing the bleeding of the clutch alone. Am doing this job on my back in the driveway (no fun). No room from top down for master issue under hood firewall, and not much better going from bottom up. I may need to remove more parts to gain needed access, but am having no issues with clutch job itself, thanks to your YouTube video (did not remove whole exhaust, only middle section from the manifold, and detached front of driveshaft from transmission, and zip tied all up underneath and had all the clearance needed).
Thanks again,

John Miller
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Saturday, March 4th, 2017 AT 6:43 AM
Tiny
KEN
  • ADMIN
Hey John,

I looks like you may be able to sneak it out of there without removing the brake line. Please let me know how it goes. Nice car by the way!

Best, Ken
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Saturday, March 4th, 2017 AT 11:00 AM

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