Clunk sound when shifting transmission into reverse

Hello I'm Tom,

Does the engines idle change when this happens? I think first off you should check the transmission fluid level. I'm not sure what you mean about the free play but the CV it will move in and out and that's normal but if you pull up and down on it and it moves then that's not good. When a CV goes bad it's usually is from the boot ripping and the grease gets out then dirt gets in there and it fails. When you drive and make a sharp corner you will here a grinding noise too. Look to see if the engine jolts when this happens a bad motor mount will make a noise when putting it in gear and you will see the motor move if this is the case.
Let me know what you see.
Tom

When you say moved from front to rear, do you mean the tire moves forward and backwards or are you shaking the tire when your hands are at 3 and 9 o'clock on the tire?

I'm asking because this is two very different issues. If you chafing the tire, it sounds like an issue with tie rods. If it moves forward and back, then it is a control arm issue.

I attached two pics below. The first one shows the control arm bushings that need checked and the second shows the inner and outer tie rods. Check these areas for play.

Also, if you could video what is happening and upload it for me to see, it would help. I wouldn't drive it until we determine what is happening and it's repaired.

Let me know.

Joe

Hi,

That rolling back and forth is normal. The tire will turn. The noise I hear sounds like the play from the transmission (which is normal) is stopping it.

If you were to place your hands at 3 and 9 o'clock and wiggle back and forth, is there play? The same with your hands at 12 and 6 o'clock?

If there is no play, then put the car down. Open the hood and have a helper start the engine and shift from park to drive and then reverse. Does the engine tilt excessively?

Let me know.
Joe

Hi Rey,
I got a head set for my computer, Now I can hear a lot better, I should have done this a while ago, lol. But anyway, Yes I can hear what your speaking of I believe. Not really a clunking thing but more a clicking sound. I have hear this type of sound from transmissions when I've had a car on the lift with the tire spinning then accidentally putting it into park without using the brakes to stop the wheels from spinning before going into park. For that its the park lock pin not getting into place because the wheels were turning. Yours is a transaxle and it might be getting stuck between to modes. To me it sounds like your transmission isn't getting fully out of the drive gear before going into the reverse gear and we're hear the splines on an internal shaft slipping by its locking mechanism till it full engages. Almost like a solenoid isn't fully engaging or disengaging. Will the sound happen when your going from park at idle to reverse or does it happen only when you've been in drive then going to reverse? Pull out your transaxle dip stick and inspect the oil on it, is it red or black? It should be red and fairly clear. Smell it also to see if it smells burnt as well.

There happens to be a technical Service Bullitin that is kind of like what your hearing. Here is what they are saying about it.
TBS from Dodge
SYMPTOM/CONDITION:
A "racheting" or clicking sound is heard during garage shifts or when the vehicle is coming to a stop. This sound is normal and is associated with the operation of the transaxle shift solenoid. On some vehicles this sound may be more noticeable than others because of variations in sealing of the solenoid sound shield. THE TRANSAXLE SHIFT SOLENOID SHOULD NOT BE REPLACED FOR THIS CONDITION.
DIAGNOSIS:
With the vehicle operator present, confirm the sound is associated with the transaxle shift solenoid operation by firmly applying the brakes then, while the engine is running, shift the vehicle into gear. If the racheting sound is confirmed, perform the Repair Procedure.
If this sounds like whats happening then here is what they are saying:
PARTS REQUIRED:
AR 82300234 Sealant, Mopar RTV
REPAIR PROCEDURE:
This bulletin involves sealing ALL air gaps between the solenoid sound shield and the transaxle case.
NOTE:
THIS REPAIR PROCEDURE WILL NOT ELIMINATE THE RACHETING SOUND BUT WILL REDUCE IT AS MUCH AS POSSIBLE. THE RATCHETING SOUND IS A NORMAL CHARACTERISTIC OF THIS TRANSAXLE AND IN NO WAY EFFECTS THE RELIABILITY OR DURABILITY OF THE TRANSAXLE.
1. Clean the area where the solenoid sound shield meets with the transaxle case with steam or other appropriate cleaner. Raising the vehicle on an appropriate hoist and/or removing the air cleaner may be helpful in gaining access to the area.
NOTE:
DO NOT use petroleum based cleaners because they may deteriorate the sound shield and/or the electrical connectors/components.
2. Blow the area dry with compressed air.
3. Use Mopar RTV sealant (P/N 82300234) to seal ALL air gaps between the solenoid sound shield and the transaxle case.
4. Lower the vehicle and install the air cleaner if applicable.
POLICY: Reimbursable within the provisions of the warranty.
TIME ALLOWANCE:
Labor Operation No: 21-90-95-90 0.3 Hrs. FAILURE CODE: XX - Service Adjustment
Let us know if we are on the right track with this
Tom

Hi Rey,

Well if your not talking about that clicking sound I hear and you actually getting a full scale knock or bang then its got to be one or more the motor and/or transmission mount. The amount the motor is moving at idle to me is more than it should. Most of the time when a mount goes bad it you can get your eyes on it. (sometimes they are buried pretty good behind things). will show ripped or torn rubber sometime you might see a powderized metal around the area from metal on metal chipping away it might even be rust colored. Get a good flash light and do a thorough visual inspection of all of them especially the one on the firewall side and on the radiator support. I bet its the one down by the muffler pipe underneath at the firewall.

This guide can help

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/jack-up-and-lift-your-car-safely

You probably going to need a jack. Make sure you set the emergency brake and use jack stands before you get under the car. Set the jack stands where it going to catch the frame of the car fully.Do you have access to those things. If your not sure about where to put the jack stands and how and where to jack it up from do not get under the car. If you can, while your under there looking when the car is cold try to move the muffler pipe it may be hitting something when the engine is moving. If you have been running the car wait until it cools or don't touch the muffler pipe.
Let me know what you find.
Tom

Yes Rey, Please keep us posted on what you find. We like to make sure everything works out.
Tom

Hi,

The exhaust hitting is very possible. However, I don't think it's a motor mount issue simply based on your video. I would like to ask for Tom's input on this. Tom, do you feel it could be in the differential? I've seen issues with the differentials on these. However, it us not a click but rather a clunk.

Joe

Rey, I may have already asked, but is it possible for you to record it and upload the sound for us to hear? The motor didn't move much at all in the video; that's why I don't think it's a mount. If you pressed the throttle a slight bit when doing the same test, it may show something different.

Let me know (us) know.

Joe

Hi Joe and Rey,

Yes, the differential could be it or the strut if it clunks not clicks. I would like to hear the sound again if possible as well (on a hill if you can) because I'm hearing a clicking more than clunk from what was uploaded so far. The fact that its worse on a hill makes me thing it is something outside the trans. It could even be a strut bushing. I had a car not to long ago that has two sets of new struts put on by another shop it was a Mazda, The customer was positive it couldn't be the strut, well come to find out the the 3 bolts that hold the top to the strut tower were only 1/16 inch off center. It bolted in perfect, looking at he triangle it was made it so all three possible position it went right in no problem. Looking at it off the car it looked like the strut was perfectly centered but when I put a micronometer on it and measured the distance between the strut shaft and the mounting bolts it was ever so slightly off center and it hit the inside inner top of the strut tower only when hitting a good size bump. With it installed you could not see the hit spot but sure enough when the strut was removed and you could see behind the strut there was a mark where it had been hitting the side of the strut tower. The strut only had one position that it didn't hit. When someone says "I know it cant be" always go back to it and double and triple check what they" know" with a super close eye. No one knows anything, lol.
Tom