No heat no A/C and cannot change from floor to defrost to dash vents

Tiny
JMANN639
  • MEMBER
  • 2007 PONTIAC G6
  • 3.5L
  • V6
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 150,000 MILES
My blower works fine on all four levels I get no heat no A/C and cannot change from floor to defrost to dash vents. The lights on the climate module are off when this happens. I can play around with the blower motor setting and sometimes get the lights to come on on the climate control module and everything works fine at that point but lights will go out seconds or minutes later and nothing works again except blower motor. Could this be a bad Climate Control Module? If so how can I test to make sure?

Thanks for reading and responding.
Do you
have the same problem?
Yes
No
Tuesday, November 17th, 2020 AT 2:02 PM

9 Replies

Tiny
STEVE W.
  • EXPERT
It could be a bad module, but it sounds more like a bad connection either the connector itself or more common a bad solder joint on the connector in the module. Especially when you can move the controls and it wakes up. Try a couple gentle taps around it when it isn't working, if you see it flicker or it comes on that would confirm the loose connection.
To determine which you can easily remove the controller. You remove the center trim from the stack and the two screws for the control. Then pull it out and check the wire connection on the back. If it is loose you can try putting it back on. If you remove the connector and find a loose pin or similar there are a few things that can be done, they are not hard to re-solder or just hit a salvage yard and get a replacement. Or you could send it out for repair.
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Tuesday, November 17th, 2020 AT 7:17 PM
Tiny
JMANN639
  • MEMBER
Already have module out connections were not loose, unplugged and checked pins. Inside connectors they looked fine. When it's not working I will move the fan speed selector very slowly from high to low and when I go from 0 to 1 slowly occasionally the lights on climate module will come on and it works properly. It might take 15 to 20 times doing that to get it to work, but again I might try 30 minutes or more and get nothing. Very strange.
I appreciate your time trying to help me figure this out. Would you happen to have any other recommendations?
Thank you.
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Tuesday, November 17th, 2020 AT 8:33 PM
Tiny
STEVE W.
  • EXPERT
That still sounds like a bad connection, but at board level. It can be very hard to see them unless you have a lot of practice looking at bad soldering on automotive items. However if it is confined to the blower speed area that is where I would look first. Bad solder joints can look perfect but have cracks that are microscopic and cause failures. Something you might try would be to spray some contact cleaner into the potentiometer and then see if anything changes. If not then it's going to take some soldering and for that you need to have practice as it's very easy to damage the copper traces on those boards. There are multiple YouTube videos showing how to reflow the solder on them but some of the better ones are from
jeffescortlx and Maic Salazar Diagnostics. However as I said it is real easy to damage the board so I don't advise you to DIY the repair unless you are very comfortable soldering surface mount parts and pins.
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Tuesday, November 17th, 2020 AT 10:18 PM
Tiny
JMANN639
  • MEMBER
Thank you very much! I have already sprayed with contact cleaner and since I've done that I have not been able to get it to work again. I will say the plug on harness side going to fan speed selector one of the spades is darker than the others like it has gotten hot I put some dielectric grease on it but like I said haven't been able to get it to work since. I will look at the videos you told me about I have done some soldering before but I'm not sure I can work with something that small.
Again, thank you for your Information and your time!
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Wednesday, November 18th, 2020 AT 5:43 AM
Tiny
STEVE W.
  • EXPERT
HMM darker is usually from heat so look close around it and check the connector itself for loose contacts, find a pin or similar that fits in the connectors just tight enough you can feel it drag going in and out and see if all of the contacts feel the same. The soldering issue is a common thing, not many people have a small iron and magnifiers to work on the tiny parts used these days. Not sure where you are but if you look online there is probably a place near you that does module repair, give a couple places a call and see what it would cost for the repair. That way you know the options.
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Wednesday, November 18th, 2020 AT 8:39 PM
Tiny
JMANN639
  • MEMBER
Yes Sir. You have helped me more than you can imagine. I will look around to get repaired or replaced. I am in Chattanooga TN.I really appreciate you letting me pick your brain on this issue. You are very helpful and I thank you. I wish I could ask you all of my questions when they arise you seem to be really knowledgeable and you reply back very quickly.
Happy Thanksgiving and Merry Christmas to you and your family.
Thanks again.
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Thursday, November 19th, 2020 AT 6:08 AM
Tiny
STEVE W.
  • EXPERT
There are usually a few places around that do the repair work. If you don't find anyone local you could give United Radio a call or drop them an email and see what they can do 800.448.0944 www. Unitedradio. Com/contact-us/ The main office is in NY but they handle items worldwide and do have a branch in Georgia.
Or go to www. Car-part. Com and enter in the information and see if any yards near you have a replacement part, they don't list the pull-a-part type yards though so you won't see the LKQ yard in Chattanooga or others like them. If this is the manual control unit they seem to run between $25.00 and $75.00 for a used one in your area, the electronic ones are $175.00 or so.

The only process you need to do for the install of either style is to unhook the battery, plug in the controller, reconnect the battery and turn on the key to calibrate the actuator positions. Takes about 20 seconds and then you can adjust them.
Good luck and let us know what you end up doing. For me I'd probably find a used one, then use the one you have as a learning tool and re-solder the parts and pins and see if you can repair it. If you get it working great, put the other one on the shelf or sell it off.
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
+1
Thursday, November 19th, 2020 AT 1:49 PM
Tiny
JMANN639
  • MEMBER
Thanks again for your time. I picked one up from LKQ Pick-A-Part just down the road from me it seems to be working fine now. I do appreciate your time with my issue and thank you very much.
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Saturday, November 21st, 2020 AT 8:17 AM
Tiny
STEVE W.
  • EXPERT
Great to hear. Please return anytime and thank you for using 2CarPros.
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Saturday, November 21st, 2020 AT 10:17 AM

Please login or register to post a reply.

Sponsored links