2006 Chrysler Town and Country

Tiny
MARCAN
  • MEMBER
  • 2006 CHRYSLER TOWN AND COUNTRY
  • 6 CYL
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 70,000 MILES
With the engine running my dashboard lights and exterior lights will flicker or strobe rapidly. Sometimes at idle in addition to flickering lights the instrument gauge needles will bounce rapidly and the radio will just go silent for a few seconds and then come back on. Also the abs brake red warning light will illuminate for 5 to 10 seconds.

The dealer looked at the issue and examined the electrical wire bundle that runs around the battery. They said they cleaned some connectors in this wire bundle. The dealer also replaced the brand new Sears Die-Hard battery with a serviceable Mopar battery. They said the Die-Hard was heating up at the positive post.

The problem remains the dealer did not fix the problem. Any suggestions?
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Sunday, August 2nd, 2009 AT 10:18 AM

6 Replies

Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • EXPERT
This is a tough one. First, the sears battery wasn't the cause of the terminal heating up. To me, it sounds like one of two possoble problems. First, make sure all of the grounds are clean and tight. Especially the one to the engine block from the battery. If all grounds look good, I would have two things checked. One is the body control module (BCM). The other is the voltage regulator that is an integral part of the alternator.
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Sunday, August 2nd, 2009 AT 3:46 PM
Tiny
MARCAN
  • MEMBER
I did the following:

1. Cleaned the negative battery cable ground connection at the engine block.

2. Checked alternator output w/ engine running. Voltage was constant at about 14 volts during the 5 minute check. I loaded the electrical system during the test with a/c on & off and lights on and off. There was about a 6 second period during the test where the voltage output dropped to about 13 volts, but then went back to 14 volts and stayed there at 14 volts.

The same electrical problem is still present.

I WILL TAKE YOUR ADVICE AND HAVE THE DEALERSHIP CHECK OUT THE (BCM) AND THE ALTERNATOR FOR REGULATOR OUTPUT.

I will post a response to you once the dealer is complete with their work.

If you have any other ideas let me know.

Thanks for your help.

Mark
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Sunday, August 2nd, 2009 AT 8:44 PM
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • EXPERT
Mark,
The alt output sounds normal. As long as it didn't drop below 12 volts. The BCM is my next choice to have checked. It's hard to know for sure (especially not being there) but that is what I would check.
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Monday, August 3rd, 2009 AT 12:21 AM
Tiny
MARCAN
  • MEMBER
Just an update for your information.

The dealer said the alternator output is okay.
The dealer replaced the BCM with a new unit and the problem still remains.

The dealer doesn't know what is wrong.
The dealer has ordered a new wiring harness for the vehicle and will replace the wiring harness next week.

I'll let you know if the new wiring harness corrects the problem.

Mark
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Saturday, August 8th, 2009 AT 2:17 PM
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • EXPERT
I hope the BCM was checked before replacement.
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Saturday, August 8th, 2009 AT 4:19 PM
Tiny
MARCAN
  • MEMBER
The electrical problem has been resolved.

1. The BMC replacement was a guess by the dealer and the new unit didn't fix the problem.

2. A new engine wiring harness was installed and the problem has been resolved.

3. Bottom line after 3 separate and long stays in the repair shop the dealer never told me the real cause of the electrical problem.

4. Best news for me is the entire cost was $60.00 as the dealer did all the work under warranty.

5. Thank you for your troubleshooting online advice. I believe you were right on target with your thinking.

Regards,

Mark
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Friday, August 21st, 2009 AT 7:00 AM

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