Engine idling rough

Tiny
BEK1
  • MEMBER
  • 2005 CHRYSLER SEBRING
  • 4 CYL
  • FWD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 98,000 MILES
When you turn on the air conditioner the motor starts jumping or missing when it idles it will stop once you start going but it has died before. Does anyone have an idea what could cause this?
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Wednesday, September 22nd, 2010 AT 10:09 PM

27 Replies

Tiny
RASMATAZ
  • MEMBER
Hello,

It sounds like it might be time for a tune up but to be sure here is a guide you should run down to cover all your bases.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/engine-vibration-at-idle

Please run down this guide and report back.
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Wednesday, September 22nd, 2010 AT 11:37 PM
Tiny
OIDAVEY
  • MEMBER
Thank you for this post I found an Ignition coil that was going out cost me $76.00 to fix it I love this site.
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Friday, August 16th, 2019 AT 12:04 PM
Tiny
CHEVELLE700
  • MEMBER
  • 2004 CHRYSLER SEBRING
  • 4 CYL
  • 4WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 86,000 MILES
The car idles very rough when pressing on brakes, and has also stalled when stopping, also idles rough after starting the car, everything checks out on mechanics computer, checked compression that was also good, checked spark plugs, don't know what it is any ideas?
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Friday, August 16th, 2019 AT 12:05 PM (Merged)
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • EXPERT
Have you checked for vacuum leaks? Has fuel pressure been checked?

Let me know.

Let me know.
Joe
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Friday, August 16th, 2019 AT 12:05 PM (Merged)
Tiny
MSCOTTCELL
  • MEMBER
  • 2004 CHRYSLER SEBRINGCHRYSLER SEBRING
This is long,
I have a 2001 Sebring Conv mil: 100k. For the past year and a half I have encountered sporatic rough idle/run and stalling along with check engine light. It has been in 3 different shops. The 1st shop changed the distributor, it reocurred they replaced 2 more times. The car ran OK for a few months and started again. I put in another shop who could not determine cause. #Rd shop said it was dist, changed 6 more times )beleive it I did n't). Since then it has had the following done, EGR valve replaced, fuel injection tune up, iol pressure switch, timing belt replaced, crank senser, belts, PVC valve, dist cap, cleaned and vacummed. The last time I sent it it would not even back up the hill out of the driveway it was sputtering so bad it took 2 minutes to pull out 100ft. But once I got to top of hill I turned off the engine 5 minutes later I started fine and ran fine to the repair shop. I explained this to mech, he drove for few days and the problem reoccurred but worse. He wanted to change some other items but at this point lost confidence so I retreived the car. The gas was near empty and when I started it would barely move again. I got to top of hill aprox 150 yds and went to gas station. Filled up tank and car ran fine. To me it appears to be gas related ( filter, fuel pump). After a few days the car had the problem 1 more time but once on level ground it runs fine. Any suggestions?
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Friday, August 16th, 2019 AT 12:05 PM (Merged)
Tiny
RASMATAZ
  • MEMBER
Have the fuel pressure check, comeback with the results and we'll give it a shot of the 2carpros expertolage.
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Friday, August 16th, 2019 AT 12:05 PM (Merged)
Tiny
JAMES4078
  • MEMBER
  • 1998 CHRYSLER SEBRING
Engine Performance problem
1998 Chrysler Sebring 6 cyl Front Wheel Drive Automatic

car starts ok, idles rough, when I try to rev engine it stalls. Not getting power to fuel pump, dropped gas tank to check fuel pump bypassed the power directly to pump and it is working fine still no excelleration in motor.
Tried old school trick with gas can and electric fuel pump right to fuel line near injectors still idles rough and no excelleration. Sprayed starting fluid into intake and then I get higher revs
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Friday, August 16th, 2019 AT 12:05 PM (Merged)
Tiny
CARADIODOC
  • EXPERT
When it runs rough, does the Check Engine light turn on? Have you read the diagnostic codes?

Caradiodoc
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Friday, August 16th, 2019 AT 12:05 PM (Merged)
Tiny
JAMES4078
  • MEMBER
Where do I find these and how do I get the car to run a system check?
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Friday, August 16th, 2019 AT 12:05 PM (Merged)
Tiny
JAMES4078
  • MEMBER
Just restarted car. No check engine light, no error code
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Friday, August 16th, 2019 AT 12:05 PM (Merged)
Tiny
PELLEP
  • MEMBER
  • 1998 CHRYSLER SEBRING
  • 2.5L
  • V6
  • FWD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 189,000 MILES
The engine starts and runs, but idles rough with gas smell from exhaust. Runs good above 3000 rpm. When driving and stopping the idle goes to a smooth fast idle until put in neutral and tapping accelerator petal when it goes to a rough regular idle. Plugs, wires, cap and rotor replaced. Scanner brings up MAP sensor. Replaced but no help.
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Friday, August 16th, 2019 AT 12:05 PM (Merged)
Tiny
CARADIODOC
  • EXPERT
Cycle the ignition switch from "off" to "run" to "off" to "run" to "off" to run" three times within five seconds, then leave it in the "run' position. After a few seconds the Check Engine light will flash a series of two-digit codes or the numbers will appear in the odometer display.

If the light flashes, count the flashes for the first digit, then there will be a short pause, then the second digit will flash. Record that code. After a longer pause, the next two-digit code will flash. Some cars will start with code 12. Disregard that. Code 12 just means the ignition switch was turned off. The last code will be 55. That just means end of message.

Caradiodoc
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Friday, August 16th, 2019 AT 12:05 PM (Merged)
Tiny
PELLEP
  • MEMBER
Throttle position sensor also replaced.
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Friday, August 16th, 2019 AT 12:05 PM (Merged)
Tiny
CARADIODOC
  • EXPERT
Have to leave now. Will be back for a followup in a few hours.
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Friday, August 16th, 2019 AT 12:05 PM (Merged)
Tiny
CARADIODOC
  • EXPERT
There's a number of fault codes related to the map sensor and they mean vastly different things. None of them will say the sensor is bad or needs to be replaced, only what is wrong with that circuit. You need to list the specific numerical fault code.

Map sensors measure intake manifold vacuum and a vacuum leak will cause idle speed problems and incorrect map sensor readings. The readings from the map sensor have the biggest affect on fuel metering calculations, so a vacuum leak and the resulting low vacuum reading will incorrectly tell the Engine Computer that you're pressing the accelerator further than you really are, and more fuel is needed. Start by looking for a leaking vacuum hose or intake manifold gasket.
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Friday, August 16th, 2019 AT 12:05 PM (Merged)
Tiny
JAMES4078
  • MEMBER
I cycled it as you said. However, No codes or anything flashed in the display. The one thing that did happen is where the odometer numbers should be it now says
D E C K. Any idea what that's about?
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Friday, August 16th, 2019 AT 12:05 PM (Merged)
Tiny
PELLEP
  • MEMBER
The code it had was P1297 - no change in MAP from start to run. The intake gaskets have been replaced and it runs better with the PCV valve hose pulled off (big air leak) although it idles high. It sometimes takes a lot of cranking to start and sometimes needs the throttle constantly pumped to run.
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Friday, August 16th, 2019 AT 12:05 PM (Merged)
Tiny
LAMBORGHINI
  • MEMBER
  • 1998 CHRYSLER SEBRING
  • 6 CYL
  • FWD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 171,445 MILES
I recently overhauled the the simple parts of the Engine on my 98 Chrysler Sebring. New Spark Plugs, Spark Plug Tube Seals, New Throttle Body, Cleaned and resealed air intake manifold, replaced both valve head covers. The car was acting as though it was getting too much fuel after I had been on a long trip somewhere. Once I slowed down from a constant speed, every time I attempted to accelerate the RPM's would actually decrease and the car would shutdown. After waiting 15 to 20 minutes it would run fine again. When working on the engine I found that all of the spark plugs were submerged in oil - Could that have caused the car to have had that previous problem. Seems to be solved now? - Secondly I broke the EGR Vaccum line while working on the car and attempted to replace it with some plastic hose from Autozone since I was unable to get it from the dealer. The car seemed to run fine, then I removed the instrument cluster and attempted to drive the car without it (don't ask why, I don't know) the car would not change gear. I replaced the cluster and disconnected the battery and it was back to business as usual. Last night I installed some wiring for my amplifier and navigation system by running wires through the firewall. Today the car does not idle right. It was fine in the Morning and I drove it using Cruise Control for the first time in months. Then this afternoon every time I come to a stop or when I initialy start the car it idles too LOW. It idles smoothly at around 750 RPM, but at start up or when in gear it tries to idle at around 500 RPM and feels as though it is not getting enough fuel or as though it may shut off?
Could this be in relation to when I removed the cluster panel, or is it more likely involved with the EGR, Or am I just shooting in the dark here? Any Help Would be greatly appreciated

Thanks
Richard
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Friday, August 16th, 2019 AT 12:05 PM (Merged)
Tiny
MERLIN2021
  • EXPERT
You can try a self-diagnostic test. To activate self diagnostic program:

With the ignition switch in the OFF position, depress the TRIP and RESET buttons.
While holding the TRIP and RESET button turn the ignition switch to the ON position.
Continue to hold the TRIP and RESET buttons until the word CODE appears in the odometer windows (about five seconds ) then release the buttons. If a problem exists, the system will display Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTC's). If no problem exists, the code 999 (End Test) will momentarily appear. Also when you changed the throttle body, did you reseal everything? Running the car without a cluster, which "talks" to the PCM and TCM and BCM is a very bad idea, there will be store codes! Also diconnect your wiring, aftermarket radios and electronics WILL cause interfernce on communication lines if not properly installed. Post all codes here.
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Friday, August 16th, 2019 AT 12:05 PM (Merged)
Tiny
CARADIODOC
  • EXPERT
That's a new one on me. Is the trunk open?

The reason I asked about the codes is they can lead you to the circuit or system with a problem, not necessarily the bad part. Any problem detected by the engine computer that could adversely affect tail pipe emissions will turn on the Check Engine light. There can be other fault codes stored in memory that don't result in the light turning on, but they could still provide clues, if they exist.

It is not common on '96 and newer cars to have a misfire or stalling problem that isn't picked up by the Engine Computer. By the way, I reread back to your original post and noticed you found no voltage to the fuel pump. Some clarification might be in order to prevent you from "getting wrapped around the axle". There are only two times you should have voltage to the pump. It will be there for one second after turning on the ignition switch to "run", then it will go back off. The voltage will reappear when the engine is rotating, (cranking or running). When pulses are received from the crankshaft position sensor and the camshaft position sensor, the Engine Computer turns on the Automatic Shutdown (ASD) relay. That relay sends battery voltage to the injectors, coil(s), oxygen sensor heaters, alternator field, and fuel pump or pump relay.

The fact that the engine was running is proof the fuel pump was running and the ASD relay was on.

I can suggest two things, ... Ok, three things. I hate blindly throwing parts at a car in hopes one sticks and fixes the poblem, but stalling when accelerating could be caused by a failing MAP sensor. They will not cause rough running on their own, but they have the biggest say in how much fuel the Engine Computer commands from the injectors. If the MAP sensor is reporting incorrectly that the engine is idling / not under load, the injectors won't spray enough fuel. Fuel starvation could cause the engine to stumble, stall, or just have low power. The sensor is powered by 5.0 volts. The acceptable range for its signal wire is between.5 and 4.5 volts. Anything outside that range will tell the computer to set a code and turn on the Check Engine light. Once that happens, the computer knows it can't trust the reading, so it disregards it and chooses an approximate value to run on based on pre-programmed values that correspond with readings from the other engine sensors. It will not run well, but it will run.

As long as the MAP sensor's values are within the acceptable range, the Engine Computer will believe them and not set a fault code. If the sensor is starting to fail, its reading could be wrong, but acceptable to the computer. One common clue years ago was the engine would run as long as the gas pedal was in motion. It didn't matter how far the pedal was pressed, as long as you kept moving it up and down, you could drive it into the shop.

The only system not monitored by the Engine Computer is the fuel supply system. Chrysler has always had very little trouble with their fuel pressure regulators, but if pressure is low, there will be running problems. If the engine is idling roughly while you're under the hood, remove the vacuum hose from the pressure regulator on the fuel rail and block the hose. Alternately, you can try to pinch the fuel return hose to the tank. That's the smaller of the two hoses. Either of those tricks will cause pressure to increase significantly. You can expect black smoke out of the tail pipe because too much fuel will be entering the engine, but if it smooths out, look for a fuel-related problem.

If there were a fault code related to a specific cylinder misfire, I would suggest swapping coils around if you have the individual coil-on-plug coils, then see if the code changes to a different cylinder misfire. Chrysler rarely has an injector problem, but you could also swap them when the computer tells you which cylinder is misfiring. I don't think a misfire is the problem though, as it would still accelerate without stalling.

If raising fuel pressure has no affect, I would try a MAP sensor next, (a cheap salvage yard one), as a test. If that doesn't help, see a mechanic who will connect a hand-held computer, called a scanner, to the car. It will read any stored fault codes, AND it will display real-time sensor voltages as the engine is running. He might be able to pick out one that is not responding correctly.

Caradiodoc
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Friday, August 16th, 2019 AT 12:05 PM (Merged)

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