Lifter clacking noise

Please let me know what you find. I am experiencing the same problem.

I have a 2006 Base Model Pacifica 3.5L Front Wheel Drive, and I have the same lifter noise that started at 37,000 miles. Right after the warranty ended. The Dealer listened to it and wanted $2,000 up front to tear in to it. (Yeah right) I also have tried the additives, which work for about 15 30 minutes, and then the noise returns, also changing to 10W40 oil instead of 10W30 didn't make a difference, and I have now moved in to synthetics. I am at 65,000 miles now, and the best synthetic that I have found to quite it down is Royal Purple 10W30. Granted it is one of the most expensive synthetics on the market, but it does make a difference for my vehicle.
One strange aspect of the noise, sometimes it will be very quiet, I will shut off the engine for 5 minutes or so while I run in a store, and when I come out and restart it, it sounds like theres no oil in it at all.

So any ideas anyone has, or other experience with this, I would appreciate being included!
Thanks.

So you have been driving your vehicle like this for 30k miles without additional problems? I am thinking about having all the lifters replaced at a cost of $2000 - 3000 but still cannot receive a guarantee that it will fix the problem. What gives? If you have tried any other fixes please post or email me at brasil. Will@gmail. Com. Thanks, Will

Yes, it is still running ok.
I live in Northeastern Ohio and we have a required emissions check every other year on our vehicles before we can renew our license plates called E-Check. I just had my vehicle tested today at 65,523 miles and it passed with flying colors.
In my mind if there was a lifter malfunction, then a valve wouldn't be opening or closing all the way and that should trip some sensor someplace, or cause a drop in gas mileage, or darker / bad smelling exeaust. I keep track of every single thing that happens and every single drop of gas or oil that goes in to this vehicle. Overall mpg right now across it's entire life is 19.6.
Other than experimenting with the oils and additives I haven't done anything.
Now I know that this problem isn't going to get better. When an engine makes noise like this something is wrong. But as you found out, and my dealer told me the same thing, at least $2,000 up front and no promises. Maybe I'm crazy, but I think I could buy a new engine for less than that price. So I'm gambling.

We have a 2006 Pacifica now going through this the second time at 86k miles. The first time Chrysler replaced the hydraulic valve lifters under warranty. There is a service bulletin or service "alert" - not a recall - on the cars for this problem depending on the age and warranty on the car. You need to check with your Chrysler dealer to see if they will cover it. As I said this is the second time this has happened. Not only was the car defective off the line, their repair would not last even to 100k.

Do you happen to know what the Service Bulletin number is? My dealer never seems to be able to find anything that I ask him about when he searches by keywords, but if I give him a specific number, then he magically finds what I am talking about. Thanks!

My 2006 Pacifica had valve noize @ 77,000 miles. I had a certified pre-owned warranty (to 80K miles) so the repair was covered less $100 deductible.
From my work order
#1 Customer Reports: TICKING NOISE IN ENGINE
caused by ROCKER AND OIL SHAFT PINS SHEARED OFF CAUSING SHAFT TO ROTATE AND OIL FEEDS NOT SUPPLYING LIFTERS
REPLACED VALVE TRAIN ITEMS.

Labor was 2.60 hrs, a dozen parts, sorry I can't tell you what it would have cost w/o the warranty. I'd guess it would be a minimum of $500.

Oil flows up through this rods on each end of the engine ans swirts out onto the rocker arms. With the pin broken the shaft can rotate and the oil is no longer directed onto the rocker arms. This only happened on one end of the engine but my dealer replaced the rods on both ends

Just today, 17 months later @ 104K miles it is making the same type of noise again. That doesn't mean that it is the exact same issue again but I have my suspicions.

Follow-up. It was the same failure mode this time also. The pins had sheared off.
Last time, when it was under warranty my mechanic replaced the entire valve train (really it is easier for them that way, especially when someone else is paying for the parts).
This time the saved me some cash by drilling/driving out the broken pins and replacing them. In addition to replacing the pins at the end pedestals the mechanic applies 2 more pins to the Intermediate Pedestals. So perhaps it will be beefed up enough to survive longer. I didn't ask if the holes already existed in the Intermediate Pedestals, or if he had to drill them himself. Perhaps I'll make a call and find out.