Stop the engine, turn the ignition switch to "run", open a door, then watch the dome light when you press the power window button. If the dome light does not change brightness, suspect a defective motor or switch contact. If you can see the dome light dim very slightly, that indicates current is trying to flow through the window motor. The cable assembly is likely jambed. The clue is if the light dims a little when the "up" OR "down" switch is pressed, the motor is jambed. If the light only dims in the "down" position, the motor technically is jambed because the window has reached the end of its travel. That would be normal. Along with that, if the light does not dim slightly in the "up" direction, suspect a problem with the switch. Luckily it's the driver's window. The fact the other windows work proves the wiring between the door hinges is ok.
If it appears to be a switch problem, you can unplug the motor and switch the two wires around in the connector. That will make the motor run in the wrong direction. Now the good contacts in the "down" half of the driver's switch will make the window go up when the "down" button is pressed. That would be proof the switch must be replaced or the contacts might be able to be cleaned.
If none of these things pans out, you will need to remove the switch from the door so you can take voltage readings on its connector. If everything checks out correctly, suspect a defective Body Computer. I dont know why the engineers have this insane need to hang a complicated, unreliable computer onto an otherwise simple system, but that's what we're stuck with.
Sunday, February 28th, 2010 AT 5:36 AM