: ( : cry: I have a 94 chevy 3500 automatic with a 6.5 diesel, vehicle has 108K miles.
Will not start, always ran and started fine before, checked for codes, noted a 13 and 62.
Suspect the 13 may be the problem. Would really appreciate any assistance on this, driving me crazy. Experienced with Gas engines, not very strong on diesels
DTC 13 trouble shooting
-disconnect engine shutoff solenoid connector
-probe test light from termial B to gnd
Light off-check for open or short to ground (Fuse?)
Light on-Probe test light from A and B terminals.
Light on-faulty engine shutoff connection or faulty engine shutoff solenoid
Light off-Check for open in line to PCM or faulty pcm.
July, 9, 2006 AT 5:16 AM
Thank you for the reply to my question! : )
Please I'm still confused. : Oops: You indicated two scenarios: Light on-faulty engine shutoff connection or faulty engine shutoff solenoid
Light off-Check for open in line to PCM or faulty pcm.
Is there a normal result? I'm not sure what to do.
July, 9, 2006 AT 1:58 PM
Well, The DTC 13 trouble code indicates a problem in the Engine feul shutoff valve system. This trouble shooting procedure is assuming there is a problem.
First test. Probe test light from b to gnd. If the light is off, you are not getting power to the engine shutoff valve from the ignition switch. If the light is on, then u have power like you are supposed to.
Second test. If you had power to the valve, we need to test to see if we are getting a good ground signal from the PCM. To do this probe pins a nad b of the plug, and if you get a light on, then that means you have power and a ground to activate this valve. Under this case, then we should suspect a bad engine shut-off solenoid or bad connection at that solenoid. If you do not get a ground, then either the PCM is is faulty, or there is a open in the wiring from the solenoid to the PCM.
If you have no ground to the engine shut-off solenoid, you can check for continuity from pin a of the shut-odd solenoid to pin E16 of the PCM. If that wire is good, then the PCM is not sending a ground to the solenoid. Pin 15 of the engine harness is a break point if you need to trouble shoot an open wire from the solenoid to the PCM.
July, 10, 2006 AT 6:45 AM
I'll try this today, thank you!
July, 11, 2006 AT 6:10 AM
I tried testing for voltage at the connector-- disconnected the shutoff solenoid. Used a test light to probe the harness socket. Turned ignition on, probed each terminal to ground, nothing! : ( Repeated test with wife cranking the engine, nothing. : Cry: Checked all connections that I could find, seem secure, no signs of mice chewing, and checked fuses, seem to be ok. Ready to plant flowers in the truck.
Any more ideas or should I toss in the towel and get it towed away to the dealer : roll: Thank you to everyone that has replied with suggestions, I'm still sort of optimistic.
George : wink:
July, 13, 2006 AT 4:10 PM
Wow, I hate that I left for a few days. If you havent gotten it fixed, I am looking at the diagram, and if you have no power on the pink wire, pin " B", then it looks like you may have either a flown fuse titled " ALT 20A", a bad ignition switch, or a open in the wiring connecting the Engine shut-off solenoid to the ignition switch.
July, 14, 2006 AT 3:45 AM
Does the wiring diagram show the wiring path from the Fuel Shut off solenoid back to the ignition?
Does it share a common path with something else, is there something else that I can check to confirm the line is dead?
Thanks : )
July, 14, 2006 AT 2:32 PM
It doesnt really give a good diagram to show if anything is common on the same line. It does show a 20amp fuse between the ignition switch and the shut-off solenoid. I would try and find that on the fuse block. The oly title it gives is " ALT", so I am not sure if it will be listed like that, or share a fuse with something else. It should share the Fuel driver Solenoid, so maybe that is going to be the title in the fuse block. If you find that fuse blown, then you may have a bad solenoid, or driver that has blown the fuse. If the fuse is good, then you have to find the break in the line between the fuse and the solenoid.
This is all assuming that the ignition switch is good, and allowing power to flow. I so wish I had my meter and your truck. I would wring it out and have a answer for you asap.
Good luck, and sorry I can be more help.
July, 16, 2006 AT 6:40 AM
: D : ) 8) : shock: I had checked the fuses that sounded logical, glo plug, ign, etc.
Following your advice on a fuse problem, I proceeded to check all of them, found a burned 20 amp, sort of obscure, upper right of fuse block, hard to see.
The fuse socket was not represented in the 5 fuse block illustrations in my manual.
Marked as FSS : oops: -Duh George : oops: ,
Fuel shutoff solenoid.
Anyway, replaced it, now getting power to the Fuel Shutoff solenoid, solenoid seems to energize, it clicks when key is turned on.
Assume the purpose is to lift the lower plunger to allow fuel to flow?
Truck almost starts/will fire for a second. Seems like it is starving for fuel. Filter is new, bled etc. Still getting the code 13.
Assume the solenoid is not opening fully, will order one today.
Does this sound logical?
July, 16, 2006 AT 3:26 PM
It does sound logical, and it probably was bad and burnt the fuse in the first place. Hopefully this will solve the problem.
In looking at the Engine Shutoff Solenoid Circuit, the Engine shut-off Solenoid is in the circuit, but it points an arrow off the page to the Fuel Driver Solenoid. I guess if the engine shut-off is not what is bad, I would look at the fuel driver solenoid.
But I think you are on the right track and will have it fixed soon. You may have to replace the fuse again if it blew when you were testing it.