You didn't state the model year of your Burb, but this I can tell you- many of the 90's series of full sized trucks/Burbs and even Astros and some S-10's were under a recall (still in effect-safety) for "cold solder joint's" on the control board for the wipers. A "sometimes" test is when the wipers are failing, is to open the hood, then smack the cover of the wiper motor, and/or rattle the connector to the motor (there were also issues with the connector having "cold solder joints") they may restart-temporarily. Reguardless, check for the recall-free fix. If this doesn't apply; Check the torque screws that hold down the cover-if one has loosened it will throw off the "sequencer" (letting the motor know the "home position"). If this fails, remove the cover, verify there is no contamination on the two contacts, or the lube-in addition, one or both contacts- or the plate surface, may have scorched, burnish with 660 paper and confirn the contact. If needed add/replace the lube. All else fails-replace the motor controller- after market about $14.
Cruise control-sticky problem- Early versions had a problem with the connector at the base of the dash ( approx 15 pin plug that extends down the steering shaft, along the right side of the column) Make sure it's fully seated. Another issue in early versions is the "black" lead from the cruise stalk was over tensed ( you can see these leads as they enter the column). A clear test is that if the cruise will work at all, the resume feature will not. If there is NO function, try reseting the CPU (behind the glove compartment, and one of the bolts is a BEAR to get to!), Unplug the controller-wait 1 minute, then reconnect. Don't attempt the battery disconnect-unless it's for over night, to reset the controller.
Lastly, there is a consolidated switch(es) in the column-if your Burb has an air-bag, get it pro-done!- If not you'll need a special spanner tool to compress and remove the steering wheel (be sure to mark the original position of the steering wheel before starting), the disassembly is pretty straight forward (use caution with the extraction of the key-lock, and be patient). You should where the ganged switches are located on the plate (take note of the turn signal reset mech.). You'll have room to "fish" the leads down to the connector(mentioned above), however, I suggest using heavy braided wire with the end taped to prevent possibly damaging other connectors/cables. The ganged switches is about $48 OEM.
Hope this helps!
Thursday, October 25th, 2007 AT 7:18 PM