1997 Chevy Cavalier Will Not Start No Matter What I Do!

Tiny
CWPHELPS22
  • MEMBER
  • 1997 CHEVROLET CAVALIER
  • 4 CYL
  • FWD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 136,000 MILES
Heres the story. I have a beater cavalier I drive in the winters and park for the summer(its really not a beater its actually pretty decent). I parked it this april and tried to start it a few days ago. And it would barley crank. Then when I hold the ignition key it trys real hard, and the more I do it the deader it gets. I tried cleaning all my cables and charged the hell out the battery. I tested the battery over and over and it is reading great(12.5v) So I bought a new starter\solenoid and installed it. This is an easy one you dont have to measure the flywheel or use shimms. Still the same problem. It seems like after charging the battery, or when jumping I get more of a reaction.A clunk. But then nothing. The only major thing I noticed was a fuel leak back by the filter and I fixed the leak.I can hear the pump turn on when you turn the key. My alternator is only a year and half old? What can happen after sitting stationary for 6 months not in the cold to make this happen? Am I supposed to see the starter solenoid actually "turn", also I can see the ignition switch and cable move when turning the key? I am lost. When I have somebody pump the gas when turning the key I can kind of smell it up front, but I thouroughly inspected for more leaks and there were none! Somebody told me about the windsheild wiper motor( which was a pain but I replaced it last winter) having to do with the ignition, is that true? I have a feeling the battery is screwed up but it only about 11 months old and tests fine? How come the damn thing just wont start! Thank you for your time
Monday, September 22nd, 2008 AT 3:18 PM

2 Replies

Tiny
OBXAUTOMEDIC
  • MECHANIC
  • 3,711 POSTS
Hello,

Ok, you say the battery is fully charged (12.5volts) I take it you check this with a multimeter. Now just because you are showing 12.5 volts with a multimeter doesn't mean your battery isn't bad. And what is most likely the problem with the battery is the CCA (Cold Cranking Amps) for which you cannot check with a multimeter.

While cleaning cables did you clean the ground or negative connection on the engine block.

I suggest you remove the battery and take to your local auto parts store and have them check it.

Also I would recommend removing the batter or disconnecting it when you are storing it. Or start the vehicle once or twice a month and let it run for 15 - 30 min.
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Monday, September 22nd, 2008 AT 3:36 PM
Tiny
RASMATAZ
  • MECHANIC
  • 75,992 POSTS
Lets do below 1st for a start

I tried cleaning all my cables and charged the hell out the battery. I tested the battery over and over and it is reading great(12.5v)

Do this-check the battery open voltage again 12.5 volts or better-now disable ignition to prevent the engine from starting-hook up a voltmeter on the battery record the readings-now have helper crank engine over for 10secs-you look at the meter at that time-while cranking the voltage goes below 9.6 volts the battery is no good.
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Monday, September 22nd, 2008 AT 3:37 PM

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